MTFCA Forum

Thanks for the advice so far on my '26(25) Touring that I inherited.

One thing I need for sure is a fan belt. The old one was hanging in shreds, and besides, I removed the old plugged up water pump that my dad put on there, so I don't have a comparison.
I'm assuming I can put on one of those modern flat belts with the little ribs on the inside...?
Or should I just order one from one of the classic car parts outfits?

Also, oil.
Will she be happy with the 15-40 Rotella I dump into my Cummins and all the motorcycles, or does the T have more specific tastes?

you just need to measure the length of the belt for no water pump. The parts suppliers have the belts, however, some pulleys have been changed or especially if you have a 26-27 car you might have a different head on the engine which would take a different belt. If your radiator is in good condition and the engine clean, it will run just fine without a water pump. In fact if you are traveling fast enough into the wind, you don't even need a fan. But at low speeds and idling the engine will run cooler with the fan working. Use a cloth tape to make the measurement so it will be accurate. The kind of tape used for sewing garments works very well.
Norm

15/40 Rotella should be fine in Tuscon. If you have any trouble starting in cooler weather, add 20 to 25% Marvel Mystery Oil.

Great news on both accounts.
Thanks, guys.

Yeah, definitely go with the modern flat belt for the fan, they're tough and reliable. And Rotella 15-40 should work just fine for the oil, it's pretty versatile stuff.

You don't need to go to a modern flat belt with ribs on the inside. The belts the T vendors do a good job, other than the red rubber ones which don't like any oil contaminants.

Allan from down under.

Get one of those cloth or plastic sewing tapes. Set the fan pulley as close as possible and measure around the pulleys. The parts suppliers will give you a range the belt is good for. Setting the fan close will give you room to tighten the pulley once you get the belt. It should be kind of tight but you should be able to pull it with your finger and have it deflect about 1/8”. Jim Patrick, ‘26 coupe.

Everyone has their preference with good results. Engine modifications also affect selection. The original Ford specification was for a "light" oil, which has been equated to Today's 20w. One factor in selecting the "engine oil" is that it is also used by the transmission, often referred to as a wet clutch (as in some motor cycles & Diesels). Rotella T4 mets the JASO spec, so you good to go with it. While many use 15w-40, I prefer 10w-30 T4

Interesting discussion https://us.saint.cc/blogs/journal/motor ... protect-it
HOW A MOTORCYCLE WET CLUTCH WORKS
As you might already know, the function of the clutch is to connect the engine and transmission using friction and steel plates.

IMPORTANCE OF OIL TO CLUTCH PERFORMANCE
Oil is very important for clutch performance. It affects the dynamic friction that you experience, or for those without an engineering degree, how the clutch 'feels'. Oils that don't have the right friction properties can make the clutch feel less consistent or 'loose' to put it another way. Think about kicking off when a red light turns green. The quality of oil matters if you want to confidently pull away without the bike cutting out. Oils without the right friction can result in the clutch plates slipping in some cases.
....
Look out for motorcycle oils with the specification label of JASO MA or JASO MA2. This indicates that they're specifically designed for proper lubrication and protection of wet clutch systems.

It's also recommended to use motorcycle oils with an API rating of SH, SG, or higher, as they're designed to provide better protection against wear and tear, corrosion, and oxidation.