MTFCA Forum

Hello : I am fairly new to the T Models. I want to do a complete rebuild on a motor for my 1921 {cyl bore,crank turned,cam up grade,block pour/bore,EEcrank fitted,chevy valves,and but mostly stock. O.K here is the question???-I have two(2) very use ably blocks, one has the double valve chambers,{early?},the other has the one piece valve cover.NOW you experienced model T motor rebuilders and the go to engineers in the group please advise which would be best to use for for a car that I plan to put about 8000 miles a year on and show no mercy on BUT WILL NOT ABUSE-ie reg oil change, no over reving,reg maintaince,and all.
Thank You for any guidance on this project! davids{POPS}---Have a good day &Take Care--

If you have a 21 at least it would look correct with the double valve doors, 26-7 blocks are prone for cracks between 2 and 3 in the oil galley but they keep the pan in line, The three dip pan is stronger with the reinforcements in them but I the extra oil on no.4 rod is good to have. Just throwing some things out there!

Thank you!! Joe for your info/thoughs.All good advice .This what I am looking for, with every one giving their acknowledge and experience on what they have experienced with these blocks. I could put a four dip pan on the early two valve chamber block to help oiling & forth rod shimming when needed. Do the later blocks have added/stronger gussets than the '19-22 blocks? Thanks to all---for all thoughts
dhouston66.dh@gmail.com

David, on our Canadian sourced cars, the 4 dip pan was introduced in 1925 sometime. Very soon after its introduction, the blocks were altered with a boss at the back and two ears were added to the trans cover, to take two bolts to stiffen up the pan assembly. The four dip pan needed these to stiffen up the assembly. At the same time gusset pieces were introduced in the rim of the pan to aid in this stiffening. My 1925 barn fresh buckboard has the 4 dip pan and none of the 'stiffeners', so it will work, but may not be the best solution on a car which will be given some use.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

The one piece valve door started around Nov. 1921, and there was some overlap. My first choice would be to use the two piece doors, more closed to the outside. I have a 4 dip pan on my 21 but also have the corner braces. I does get driven and so far has been fine. I would use originals as they have a pressed steel rim and can be found generally for under $30 for the pair. https://www.modeltford.com/item/3118-19U.aspx The replacements are just flat stock from what I can see. They may be fine but I have no experience with them.
If you really want to stiffen things up you can buy this kit from Snyders; https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/Prod ... hByKeyword

Why not check the engine number on the block. That will tell you everything, except if the old engine number has been stamped on a new block.

Besides what Larry said about checking the engine number, the USA two valve door blocks had a casting date, in a circle form, ahead of the engine number pad, toward the fire wall,for the years 1919-1922 and on the block's right side is the Ford script + made in USA. A 1921 car should use a stater type block, a TT truck in 1921 could still use a nonstarter type block if early. As was said the change over to the one door block started in Nov 1921 and ran until about mid 1922. The one door blocks made in mid 1922 and to around mid 1923 had the Ford script + made in USA but no casting date by late 1922 to 1923. The Ford script + made in USA was dropped by later 1923 and a 1924 or 1925 car or TT truck has to go by original engine number. The 1926 and 1927 block has the boss's on the back for the hogshead ear's bolts. If it was my 1921 car and both blocks were equally good I would use the two valve door block. Keep the other block you may want to build up a hot engine with it some day. Best wishes on your 1921 project.