MTFCA Forum

Hi All,
I've been having trouble with the starter. Previously the Bendix gear had gotten jammed against the Hogshead and the starter wouldn't move. I took it out and found that the end of the bendix head screw was sheared off. I got a new screw from the vendors and when putting it all back together, the woodruff key wouldn't stay in place. It was moving all over the place. The key takes up all the thrust of the starter if I am right. The key is brand new. What can I do to hold the key in place? I don't know if the slot in the armature shaft is wobbled or not. If it is, can I put some solder to hold the key in; or use JB steel Weld? Hopefully someone has a solution. Thanks for reading this,
John

Off Topic John BUT I believe your email has been hacked !

As you found out, the Bendix spring bolts won't last long taking the full hit of the starter, the key is supposed to handle that torque.

Having the key slip out and drop into the transmission housing when trying to slide the Bendix head on is a bummer, I've had it happen. Luckily, the key dropped out of the oil drain hole when I drained the oil.

Theoretically, a properly fitting key should be tight in its slot, but if the slot is worn or damaged the fit can be loose. I have been known (heresy, I know) to clean the key, starter shaft and keyway slot thoroughly, then lightly crazy glue the key into its slot so that it won't slip out when installing the Bendix head. The crazy glue is there just to hold the key in place during installation, it isn't meant to take the torque loads.

The correct fix is to replace the starter with one that has an undamaged shaft keyway, of course.

Back on topic: is the Bendix bolt the one with the short protrusion ? If that hole is worn as well as the key slot, you might need to replace the armature as CudaMan stated. I've "dressed" down a Model A bolt to fit a sloppy hole before but the keyway was good.

Of course, if the key isn't tight in the shaft, the slot is wallered some.
Some light peening of the slot edge might suffice to hold the key.
A wider key could be trimmed for a custom fit. The drive head might need similar modification.
The armature shaft could be re-cut @ 180 degrees for the key & the pinning bolt depression.
The drive head set bolt must fit tight in the shaft as Rajo notes.

Hi,
Thanks for the responses. Sorry that my email has been hacked. The digital world is killing us.
Good suggestions on peening the slot slightly to fit the key better. The repro drive head bolt must be softer steel, as I have two that have sheared. I'm looking for an original in my parts bins, so that might be an answer.
John

NY John T wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 17, 2024 2:51 pm

Hi,
Thanks for the responses. Sorry that my email has been hacked. The digital world is killing us.
Good suggestions on peening the slot slightly to fit the key better. The repro drive head bolt must be softer steel, as I have two that have sheared. I'm looking for an original in my parts bins, so that might be an answer.
John

repop bolts are non graded. Mush. I only use period replacements. Bendix, Wickwire, Ford script, etc.
I suppose you could buy graded bolts 5-8 & modify/make your own if you cant find originals.

GOOD NEWS! I was able to get the woodruff key to stay in the slot. It took awhile but finally it stayed. The head bolt was mushroomed a little due to my impatience, cranking down on the bolt when it was not lined up with the hole in the starter shaft. It now is working fine with the new bendix. I was working out in the yard and dropped two woodruff keys while attempting to get them to stay. I found one, the other will have to wait till I move the car.
Thanks all.
John

I have a stash of Bendix brand bolts if you need a couple.

If the slot in the shaft and that in the Head are the same width, you can go to your local auto parts store or a good hardware store and find a key which will fit. Might need a bit of filing or grinding to make it work.

Norm

Just sharing,

My own experience since the Bendix unobtainium issues of a decade ago is that these new 'better built' Bendix parts especially the Woodruff key are NOT deburred completely and really need to be 'dressed' a bit ever so slightly before use. (viz...the Woodruff key will not go in a new armature shaft out of the box!

Point? Deburr the key edges...you might have even more wobble than you expect. It's a small amount but...who knows and from what others say 'capture and hold' is the key (pun intended) to keeping other parts from 'hammering'.

Another point? I have eliminated key 'walk on around' on install with these new parts by simple dry fitting BOTH pieces to the key first...hah...romantic...makes me an official journeyman 'fitter' for the moment (old archaic term for making keys work properly before grinders and only files were used...anyone else remember 'leading' the un-driven side when there was a 'feel' that said 'almost a loose fit' on keys? Yeah, I'm now officially grizzly, and having fun being old and reminding newbies and young'uns how it use to be...)

Hi all again,
So I got the woodruff key to stay in place by patiently sliding the bendix head on a little. As usual, the woodruff key wanted to ride up in the rear, as it had for what seemed like hours that I was working on it. But I carefully pressed down on the back of the key and gently wiggled the head on and it stayed on. I then moved the head to the point that the bolt would line up with the hole in the shaft and again, very slowly and carefully threaded the bolt in. All locked up now and working fine. I only hope that the pinion will not jam up against the hogshead as it had in the past. Perhaps the new bendix will solve that!
John

Hi Steve,
I would like the T size front head bolts with the "tit". Thanks.
John

on this topic, what is the tap size of the hole on the end of the starter shaft?

Monty 98 wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 29, 2025 8:05 pm

on this topic, what is the tap size of the hole on the end of the starter shaft?

The hole/divot in the starter shaft is not threaded.

Why is it there?

It "locks" the spring to the shaft.

RajoRacer wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 29, 2025 8:30 pm

It "locks" the spring to the shaft.

It locks the spring and the drivehead to the shaft.
It must be rather exact in length to bottom out tight on the shaft & the spring.