MTFCA Forum

How does the lock cylinder come out?

This one has no key, so I picked it, but I can't figure out how the cylinder comes out to rekey it. It's a Corbin keyway. Searches show it looks like their old cabinet type. (Ilco1000G)?). Has anyone dealt with this?

How does the lock cylinder come out?

What key does it take?

When it opens, does the key just turn, or does the cylinder also "pop out." If so, do you have to turn it to the right? (I picked it to the left and I'm trying to avoid having to do it again.)

Thanks.

There should be a pin holding the lock in the cylinder. Usually it would be around the edge or someplace. You have to clean off the paint and rust to see it because it’s usually ground flush and smooth. It might be other places too so you have to look closely. I currently dont own a lock like that , but remember from having one years ago.

There is a pin! I never would have noticed that in a million years. Thank you.

I'll try to drive it out.

Also, a search of the old forum says the key that fits is an Ilco 1000 K.

Usually, pins like that cannot be driven out, because they do not go through to anywhere you can get to.
Usually, they have to be drilled out. You need to be very careful keeping the drill centered and straight, otherwise you may wind up with a very large hole where a small hole was. And do not go too deep, or you may irreparably damage the tumbler. Start with a drill bit about half the size of the pin, estimate a reasonably safe depth, and increase the sizes slowly until the pin is gone. With a little luck, a bit of finagling, hopefully the lock assembly will come out.

Wayne, thanks,
So we think it is two pins, one going in each side, rather than one pin going all the way across.
Got it. I was wondering why they didn't quite seem to line up. I'll drill them.

A couple years ago, I sold one of those locks without a key to a friend of mine.

He took it to a long-established lock and key company here in Minneapolis. The locksmith who actually did the work had no problem making a key for it but the cost was $40.

Weld a blob on the end of the pin. Grab it with vise grips and pull it out.

I drilled out the two pins.

I ended with a .093" drill bit, using a good precision drill press, and stopping at where the brass lock cylinder appeared to start.
The pins are soft enough steel, and seem to be square with the forged housing. If you see brass chips, that was too far. You've got some margin, though.

At that point you can tap the lock out from the back, from the inside of the housing. The procedure so far is:

1. Pick the lock so the device is open and keep it open. Note the rotating steel piece that engages the other side of the device.
2. Drill out the two pins.
3. Tap on the rotating steel piece with a small hammer to push the lock cylinder out the front.
4. Disassemble cylinder and decode or rekey.

Could you simply drill out the pins and extract the cylinder from the front of a closed and locked device? The rotating steel piece behind the lock cylinder simply slots in place so that doesn't stop you, but there is no lip on the cylinder to pry behind. You'd have to hook something inside the keyway and tap that backwards really hard, I can't imagine that working without breaking things. So pick the lock and tap it out from the back.

Another option is to get an ILCO 1000 K blank and make a new key, with a triangular file and a marker, by the impression method.

It originally used a Corbin key. This was from an eBay ad of same model of lock.

PuzzleTFord wrote: ↑

Sat May 11, 2024 9:03 pm

Wayne, thanks,
So we think it is two pins, one going in each side, rather than one pin going all the way across.
Got it. I was wondering why they didn't quite seem to line up. I'll drill them.

Unless you can see two pins, perhaps 180 degrees from each other, I would not assume it has two pins. I have at least two of these, one with original keys, and I don't remember either being double pinned. Also, these were available in two or more sizes. I know, because the first one I bought would fit 30x3 or 30x3.5 tires and wheels, but not 21". I had to sell it and look for the wider one to fit 21' tires and rims.

Those "locks" were produced for all sizes of tires & usually marked inside of the casting with the size OR a "letter" but unless you had the corresponding letter card - WAG !

Thanks Ed - that is very informative ! I have the spike one for our '19 Centerdoor w/30 x 3.5 tires - the '14 Touring sports the standard type for 30 x 3.

Lock Cylinder Pictures.
I accidentally let the lock turn so I had to pick it all over again. It took forever. The tolerances are too tight for shimming.

There are two new pins. And a hat. The "big" pin on the back stops the hat from turning one way, so you may only unlock by turning the key 90 degrees to the left, this pin won't let it turn right, or past 90 degrees to the left. And the smaller pin goes right through the hat and the shaft to keep the hat on the shaft.

Do not lose any tumblers! They are thinner than the ones in your modern Schlage or Kwikset kit.