MTFCA Forum

Two chuckleheads take their T for an oil change…

https://youtu.be/4vKDKC_8ncQ?si=0oHUr8ghUQaJ3Vg2

Local Ford dealer hosts a Ford powered only car show and in the swag bag is a certificate for a free oil change on any year vehicle. Filter extra. So, he's into it. Other Ford dealers, not so sure.
Guy in our military vehicle club swears his DieHard lifetime battery warranty that he purchased in the '70s is still honored, but I don't know who does that with Sears gone in our area and Kmart gone in our area.

5w-30 oil used.
Did not see if they checked the optional filter for lint.

Wonder what would happen if you took your T to a WalMart auto center. They might do the job, but leave the oil drain plug out like they do on modern cars. Then say it's not their fault when your engine siezes up.

The guys at Wal Mart would probably use an impact to remove the T oil drain plug then use the impact to put it back in thinking it would need to be extra tight and put the impact on high range to do it. Don’t be surprised they wouldn’t do it! After all extra tight is much better than an extra snug with an hand wrench.

signsup wrote: ↑

Sun May 26, 2024 2:22 pm

Sears gone in our area and Kmart gone in our area.

Sears/Kmart own Autozone, which is probably their most profitable business.

I just told this story on FB, so I'll repeat it here. I stopped in Jacksonville IL and went to the Walmart auto shop for free air. The guy at the counter asked which car it was. I told him it was the 1915 Ford. He didn't bat an eye, as if they get cars that old all the time. He asked if the key was in it and I said yes. He went out. After several minutes I hadn't seen the car pull up to the shop. I looked out at the lot. He and a couple of the shop guys were standing by the car, obviously trying to figure out how to start it and drive it.

I watched the video until I couldn't stand it any longer. About 3/4 of the way through. I got just past the part where they decided that they didn't have a wrench that would fit the oil drain plug and decided to drain the old oil using the lower oil petcock. NICE!
On their drive to the Ford dealer, the windshield somehow becomes dislodged, and this results in a cracked lower windshield, which results in ruining the decals that have been on that piece of glass for decades.
Back to the oil change, do you mean to tell me that you didn't have enough money to buy a repop Model T combination flat wrench to remove the drain plug?
It's been a few years, but I actually took my 26 Touring to my local Jiffy Lube, mainly because I didn't want to get rid of the used oil. When I drove it in, they told me that they needed to call the owner for permission. The owner showed up about 10 minutes later and said, "Ok."
Of course, I had to conduct a "Model T Oil Change 101" class for them, and I had to supply a few specialty tools, but I, as well as the staff, enjoyed it. They really got a kick when they asked me what kind of oil filter it used, and I replied, "It doesn't use one." Not entirely true, but I wasn't about to have these guys pull my floor mat, floor board, and inspection cover. That I could do at home.
I believe these two Einsteins with the T also made a video where they drive a completely original WW II Jeep around the Orange County, CA. area. They are continually amazed about the poor braking, low top speed, and all the other things that amaze them in the Model T video. Boys, you may want to do some reading on the vehicles you own before you decide to service them. You'll be much more informed.
Stick to your Honda Accuras, boys. The world will be a safer place.

Mike "modeltspaz" Spaziano.

If I owned an auto repair shop (many years ago I did), I wouldn't spend my money on specialty tools for ancient automobiles. I believe that it's the collector cars owner who should provide the oddball tools that I as the shop owner would rarely if ever use again.
As an aside - years ago I bought a Ford oil pan drainplug wrench; it was essentially a 3/8" drive ratchet extension with a 3/8" hex end. As the mid to late '50s Fords faded away, the tool made it to the oddball tools drawer. Fast forward to the late '60s - GM started putting disc brakes on it's cars and the retaining/slider bolts used a 3/8" Allen head. Out came the old Ford drain plug tool and I used it for years on the GM disc brakes.

As to this thread's initial question, I'm not sure that even if somebody at the shop could drive it, I would be very concerned about the lift's pad placement. I would rather that my T be on a drive-on lift, and except for an alignment rack, almost all lifts are frame contact these days. Unless the shop were totally dead and it's after 4 PM, I would not be crazy about tying up a $30,000 alignment rack for an oil change that will earn my shop ten bucks.

Well at least they’re not deliberately destroying cars.

OK. I was talking to a friend about maintenance of the "T". The discussion was where to attach the usb/data port for the computer scanners now in use. The scanners that read to vehicles computer and assist in resetting engine/vehicle codes.

My friend suggested that the best place to attach the data port was off the engine. He stated that the terminal port off the back of the engine, the one that goes indirectly to the timer/coil box is the best location.

Any comments about this location?

The scanner is easy. The tech needs to fabricate the adaptor harness using an old OBD2 port connector -

Starting from the #1 wire from the OBD2 plug (Orange with Green tracer), you attach a jumper with an alligator clip. This works better if it's soldered, but will work with wire nuts or cheap electric tape. Mark this #1. Continue until you have jumpers from all the wires from the plug, marking each with a consecutive number. Easy, right? You should end up with 16 alligator clipped pigtails from the OBD2 plug.

Open the car's hood (removing it is easier. FACING THE DASHBOARD from the engine compartment, locate the 10 (9) terminals sticking through the firewall facing you. Starting from the upper left terminal, attach the #1 alligator clip, attaching 2, 3, and 4 across the top. Clips 5,6,7,8 go on the lower 4 terminals. 9 and 10 attach to the bottom 2. (Technician's Note: later cars only have one lower terminal, due to a change in software (and malware) requirements - in this case, attach clip #10 to the carburetor fuel supply line (to measure fuel flow or volitility or something).

The remaining 6 clips (numbered 10-16) will attach to the remaining 6 terminals on the terminal block on the firewall near the steering column. (On certain pre-ECM23 cars, there are only 5 terminal posts, in this case the remaining clip (16) is also grounded. We recommend to the starter unit, or the small rods paralleling the steering column... You can also connect the clip to the terminal on the big round black cylinder low on the motor - there is a large wire which makes an excellent connection point.)

Once all connections have been made, turn on the code reader / computer, the OBD2 plug is inserted into the diagnostic reader, and while holding the reader, the car is then started.

The technician is thereby enlightened... Or is it Ignited... something like that. Anyway, see, easy as pie!

Will_Vanderburg wrote: ↑

Mon May 27, 2024 3:46 pm

Well at least they’re not deliberately destroying cars.

Exactly! They are out having fun, promoting the 'T Hobby' and aren't destroying the car. I enjoy watching their videos. I hope they do more!

CatGuy wrote: ↑

Tue May 28, 2024 9:29 am

Will_Vanderburg wrote: ↑

Mon May 27, 2024 3:46 pm

Well at least they’re not deliberately destroying cars.

Exactly! They are out having fun, promoting the 'T Hobby' and aren't destroying the car. I enjoy watching their videos. I hope they do more!

Gotta learn somehow. While i do agree that not everything was done 100% right, they're out driving the car, enjoying it for what it is, and showing it to people. Its not in a shed because the owner passed away covered in dust and burd poop never to see the light of day again. You either preserve the car entirely or drive it and use it gently, but even then, stuff will naturally break; it is 100+ years old after all.