MTFCA Forum

This week I needed to remove the spindle bushings as part of my 15 runabout restoration. I have one of the split end bushing removal tools that the T parts suppliers sell. Well, for the better part of two hours tried using it to remove the bushings, only able to get one of them move a fraction of an inch.

The problem was that no matter how far i spread apart the split end before pushing it through the first bushing, it couldn't provide enough grip on the other bushing to push it out. I finally realized that if I shoved a screw driver into the split end, it would keep the ends spread apart to do the job. This can be seen in the two pictures.

After inserting the screwdriver, it only took a few whacks on the garage floor on the bushing removal tool and each bushing came out. I just wish I'd thought of doing that at the beginning of the evening!

Its always the simple things ! Great job.

I made a tool for that years ago using a grade 8 7/16" bolt. I cut the off the head and threads and split and spread one end as pictured. Then, I slip the tool into the hole straight end first until the split end "pops "past the bushing, then drive it out using the straight end. By using a 7/16" bolt, there is much more surface to "grab" the bushing. It helps to grind the split end just a bit concave so it contacts the outer diameter of the bushing. Works great. Dave

A pipe tap screwed into the bushing and then driven out from the other side with a brass drift is quick and easy

The place to take care is the diameter of the bushing. The ones I buy are .690" which would be marginally OK on the snug side of a .6875 hole. Unfortunately, the spindle holes are quite often well undersize and there is risk of splitting them, particularly early spindles. I just did a set for an '11 and the spindle holes were .678". There is no way a 12 thou oversize bushing would go in (I wouldn't even try), so had to turn them down to fit. Here is one of 4 ready for fitting...you can't hardly tell the difference, but the spindle sure did (and it appreciated not being swelled to the point of exploding).

Scott_conger wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 08, 2019 1:45 pm

A pipe tap screwed into the bushing and then driven out from the other side with a brass drift is quick and easy

The place to take care is the diameter of the bushing. The ones I buy are .690" which would be marginally OK on the snug side of a .6875 hole. Unfortunately, the spindle holes are quite often well undersize and there is risk of splitting them, particularly early spindles. I just did a set for an '11 and the spindle holes were .678". There is no way a 12 thou oversize bushing would go in (I wouldn't even try), so had to turn them down to fit. Here is one of 4 ready for fitting...you can't hardly tell the difference, but the spindle sure did (and it appreciated not being swelled to the point of exploding).

Scott,

What diameter did you turn them down to, or what should the interference amount be to get a snug fit and not splitting the spindles?

Thanks,

Neal

Neal, due to the small diameter, I go for .0015-.0020 press fit. A press fit could go up to .003" for bronze bushings, but for that interference, I believe the design assumption is that they are going into a part/product much beafier than what we are doing with the spindle.

I use a high-pressure assembly lube on the OD of the bush and ID of the spindle: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81950-U ... B000HBNVSK This makes for a good assembly using a press. The assembly goes together without fighting you, no bronze is shaved off or distorted, and the assembly stays put when in service

here is a good place to review for supporting/justifying my choice of fit: https://www.engineersedge.com/bearing/b ... ss_fit.htm

Neal, I do exactly the same thing.

Allan from down under.

That is how you use the tool correctly wedge it open
If not your not using correctly

Use a tap- no special tools required. Pipe tap NC works very well.