MTFCA Forum

A loose hub damaged the key and made cracks in the axle and after some miles (hundreds) it snapped: I've now bought a brand new axle and need to move the differential geat on the old axle over to the new.
I have access to a hydraulic press, but it seems there are some locking ring keeping the gear tied to the axle.
Can a kind soul take me through the process of removing the gear from the old axle and mounting it on the new, thank you.
If there is a Yoytube video, please point me in that direction, since I have not been able to find one.

First you need to press the gear inboard to release & remove the split keys then press the gear off - installing is reverse of removal BUT I use a cage to hold the new axle captive while pressing the gear on.

I some nice used axles with the gears. some survice rust, but very little wear. reasonable.

When pressing a new gear in place support the tapered end by placing it in a rear hub to avoid bending the axle.

Page 144 in the bible. Paragraph 574 should help

Getting the gear off a bad axle is easier if the axle is cut about an inch outboard of the bearing land. That way it fits in a press easier and is way less likely to buckle under pressure.

Using a used hub to support the taper on a new axle is a good idea. However, the gears can be a bear to push on and Scott's cage idea may come into play to prevent the axle from bowing under pressure. I slip a length of heavy wall tubing over the axle as my "cage".

Allan from down under.

My cage pictured above has a hub taper welded into the bottom - I insert an axle shim at the new axle keyway position to assist in protecting the keyway.

If you purchase a new axle check the O.D. closely when you start to press it on.
Several years ago I bought a new axle and it was to “big” and wouldn’t press on the gear! What happened was the new axle was right at the top end on the allowable factory axle size limit and the axle gear was within a half thousandth from it!

I called the vendor and they sent me another axle that was in the allowable range. It was Snyder’s who replaced it. When he checked his new axle rack of around 20 there were 2 axles the same size as mine. He called his supplier and they replaced the other “edge of range” axles.

I’m thinking this may of happened at Fords factory too. With as many axles and gears as Ford was turning out some probably slipped by . I’ll bet the assemblers has stacks of axles and gears and when grabbing a gear if it didn’t fit without bending the axle it was sent back or just tossed aside. Just my conjecture!

We just installed what we think was one of the large axles. A friend of mine got the gear on, but he states it was a very tight fit. After we installed the axle we tried to put in a Hyatt bearing that was 0.5 inches. No go. We ended up comparing all the sleeves we had and installed the thinnest sleeve we could find. The bearing we installed was close to 0.495 inches, but it was a good bearing in all other ways. It is all greased up and ready to drive once I get the wheels back on. We will remove it next year to regrease it and see how it turned out.

Photos to show the process of removing axle gear.
First push gear further on with a large socket. Take out the half circle keys. Then use a smaller socket to push out axle. Pieces separated. Note that I had to change my press set up for the different actions.
I use 1x1” steel tube clamped between steel cross pieces to prevent the axle from slipping out.

Thank you, guys!!
As I am located in Denmark, som of the offers you gave or options are not really valid due to cost of shipping (and time - I need the car running july 2nd).
David, my "bible" is packed away and not readily awailable.

Michael

This is links to the Ford Service Manual (and other T stuff), so if you need to review those pages, this on-line copy is great to use.

https://www.cimorelli.com/mtdl/default.htm

Isn't there also a regular key that goes in the axle to hold the gear in place, not just the ring keys? I have never seen one apart, so I am not sure of how they go together, except for what I have read.

Yes, there is a substantial key for the gear.

Fit key to axle shaft prior to placing gear. Be sure that woodruff key fits tight, tap in place.

The key needs to be a firm fit in the axle. The fit should mean it needs to be driven in place as Dan shows. I use my vice and a pair of aluminium soft jaws to clamp it into the keyway. This keeps the key parallel with the axle and avoids any damage to the key which may be caused by a miss strike when tapping/driving it in.

Allan from down under.

When seating the lock rings in place, it's better practice to support the gear by the hub, instead of by the flange.

Does anyone know if Michael Deichmann was successful & made his deadline of today to have this job completed?

dykker5502 wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 29, 2024 12:54 pm

A loose hub damaged the key and made cracks in the axle and after some miles (hundreds) it snapped:
2024-06-28 19.39.03.jpg
I've now bought a brand new axle and need to move the differential geat on the old axle over to the new.
I have access to a hydraulic press, but it seems there are some locking ring keeping the gear tied to the axle.
Can a kind soul take me through the process of removing the gear from the old axle and mounting it on the new, thank you.
If there is a Yoytube video, please point me in that direction, since I have not been able to find one.

I posted just the loose gears in the forsale fourm few weeks ago

Differential assembled with new gear, one new axle and installed on car and sounds and drives well. All is good and "Korsbæk taxi" is back on the road after 2 years grounding. Rearend with wheels positioned in place, car on high jacks - now the "fun" part to get the square bit into the rear of the engine A look "up under the skirts" towards the gearbox end It all ended well and me, my daughter and grandchild is now on the beautiful "Sunshine island" of Bornholm, ready to participate in the "Around Bornholm" together with 175 other classic cars (of which ahandful may be T's Greetings from Sandvig, Bornholm to all T-lovers in the world!!

Lots of very good advice here, the way I did my swap to new axles was of course to verify the sizes of both gear and axle. Then, being the old truck mechanic that I am, I put the axles in the freezer overnight, I pop them in the vise and warm the gear just a bit. working quickly it will tap on with a bronze hammer.

Wingnut wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 05, 2024 11:48 am

Lots of very good advice here, the way I did my swap to new axles was of course to verify the sizes of both gear and axle. Then, being the old truck mechanic that I am, I put the axles in the freezer overnight, I pop them in the vise and warm the gear just a bit. working quickly it will tap on with a bronze hammer.

Did you press the gears on new or used axles? I have a set of new axles and very nice Ford gears I'm going to use, just curious is all.

KBurket wrote: ↑

Sun Jun 30, 2024 1:58 am

Photos to show the process of removing axle gear.
First push gear further on with a large socket.
IMG_3991.jpeg
Take out the half circle keys.
IMG_4006.jpeg
Then use a smaller socket to push out axle.
IMG_4007.jpeg
Pieces separated.
IMG_4010.jpeg
Note that I had to change my press set up for the different actions.
I use 1x1” steel tube clamped between steel cross pieces to prevent the axle from slipping out.

What did you use on the bottom of the axle to prevent damage to the taper, the keyway, or the threads on hub end of the axle?

A large nut or castle nut backwards is enough. Face flush to the end of the threads.
An anti bend tube or pipe is important for the tough fits as to not bend the axle.

speedytinc wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 12, 2025 8:20 pm

A large nut or castle nut backwards is enough. Face flush to the end of the threads.
An anti bend tube or pipe is important for the tough fits as to not bend the axle.

Thanks John, for the info. I'm going to make a cage/tube set up with a nut tack welded to plate welded/centered on bottom of tube.

I have a 6" square plate welded to a thick wall tube/pipe. Screw a nut on the axle.

Kent, my "cage" was a little simpler. I cut in half a 1"×1"×1/8"×48" angle iron. I put the two halves on opposite sides of the axle shafts with several hose clamps.

speedytinc wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 12, 2025 10:07 pm

I have a 6" square plate welded to a thick wall tube/pipe. Screw a nut on the axle.

I made the jig yesterday, only difference was my bottom plate is 8" square. It worked perfectly! Both axle gears are pressed on and ready to continue the rear axle rebuild.