MTFCA Forum

I have a new, unfinished firewall of the 1911/1912 two piece variety. I plan to stain it using Laurel Mountain cherry stain. For those of you who have done this staining, how much stain is needed? Since front and back need staining, it seems like it would take a whole lot more than one of the 4 oz. containers that Laurel Mountain sells.

To prepare the wood, wet the wood, let it dry then lightly sand smooth with 220, any wood grains that remain standing up. You cannot sand it once the stain has been applied or it will come out splotchy. It does not take much stain at all to stain woodwork. On a piece that size, I doubt if it would take even one ounce. You can either wipe it on with a rag, or brush it on then wipe off the excess, then varnish over it after it thoroughly dries.

Jones in Aiken SC wrote: ↑

Thu Sep 12, 2024 4:23 pm

I have a new, unfinished firewall of the 1911/1912 two piece variety. I plan to stain it using Laurel Mountain cherry stain. For those of you who have done this staining, how much stain is needed? Since front and back need staining, it seems like it would take a whole lot more than one of the 4 oz. containers that Laurel Mountain sells.

If you're careful one bottle will do it. I admit I did a one piece firewall for my 13 and I had some left.

Ditto what Tim said - had plenty left over from doing my ‘13 to do a ‘12 top board. You’ll love it ! It’s gorgeous !!

Soooo..... what kind of wood did you use? Following John Regan's advice I made my '17 firewall out of Baltic Birch plywood - of course, a '17 is painted and only visible from the driver's side.

‘13 and ‘14 dashes were a solid vertically laminated core, of various hardwood species, with cross plies of 1/16” cherry veneer on the finished sides. I’m not certain about the earlier ones with a parting board below the windshield. Reproduction dashes for ‘13-‘14 are often 3/4” plywood with cherry veneers. They are 1/16” thinner than the original, and the veneers are much thinner. John Regan has made dashes for the early cars to original specifications using cherry for the central core.

If the stain is compatible with the clear you want to use, it can be mixed into the clear. I found it easier to get a uniform stain this way. As you add clearcoats, the depth of colour and evenness is easily manipulated. Want it darker, add another clearcoat.
Others have their own ideas.

Allan from down under.

Like Jim stated
Water, then sand
Sanding sealer, then sand
Stain, then sand
Urethane, not polyurethane.

If you have a Rockler or Woodcraft near you, I would advise talking to them. That is where all the woodworkers get their supplies.

When I stain woodwork, I use water based stains from Constantines. Much more depth, making the grain appear 3D. Much easier to adjust the color. To get it darker, put on more stain.. to get it lighter, wipe with water. Let dry, brush on mineral spirits to see what it will look like, varnished. Before staining, you apply water, let dry and sand standing wood grains before staining because you cannot sand after staining without altering the uniformity of the color.

James, your water based stain gives control over the depth/evenness of the colour. Getting this right is what led me to mixing the stain with the finish product being used. Your solution is more flexible. Any finish product will go on over it with no ill consequences.

Allan from down under.

The reason water based stains are so good is because, unlike oil based stains, water is a natural component of wood and carries the color deep into the wood. Oil is not a natural occurring component of wood and is not really compatible and does not carry the color deep into the wood. Water is very forgiving and easy to adjust the shade, while oil is not.

Wicking the wood is easy. Get it damp then use heat to dry it, once dry rub down with steel wool. You may need to do several times. Unlike wetting and sanding, sanding will push the hairs down. If your exterior is cherry and has any figure lye can be used to enhance the figure.

I would use 220 sandpaper and lightly sand until smooth. Do not sand too much. Use fresh sandpaper to cut the standing grains off and only sand until smooth. Sand too much and you will expose new grains that will need to be sanded off. You only want to remove the top layer of standing grains.

In the past, when I have used steel wool, it left tiny splinters of steel in the grain requiring me to do another round of sanding to remove the steel splinters in the grain. I have never used steel wool since. If you use steel wool and don’t remove all of the splinters, the water based stain will cause the steel splinters to rust, leaving rust stains in the grain.

Jones in Aiken SC wrote: ↑

Thu Sep 12, 2024 4:23 pm

I have a new, unfinished firewall of the 1911/1912 two piece variety. I plan to stain it using Laurel Mountain cherry stain. For those of you who have done this staining, how much stain is needed? Since front and back need staining, it seems like it would take a whole lot more than one of the 4 oz. containers that Laurel Mountain sells.

The stain you're using is a dye based stain. Some of the advice you have received might not be suitable for dye stains. It may be best to ask the folks at Laurel Mountain Forge for their recommendations, since it's their product. This may be helpful. It obviously refers to gun stocks, but that shouldn't make much difference.

https://laurelmountainforge.com/stain_instruction.htm

According to this, you might not use the stain directly, but instead, thin it with a reducer. So, 4 oz. should go a long way.

Thanks for all the input! I really appreciate being able to tap into the collective knowledge of you folks who have "been there and done that."