MTFCA Forum

I just bought a Marquette tool to attempt to change my tires (since I ticked off ever tire place in town because of these clinchers). I wanted to ask if anyone has any literature or just pictures or a video of exactly how it is supposed to be used. Also, I saw a video once of a man mounting clincher tires on some English car. He placed a thin trashbag across the rim and then laid the tire on top of the trash bag covered rim. He proceeded to simply push the tire on without any tools. He said the bag reduced friction and allowed the tire to go right on. It looks so easy but I don't think that it would work, at least on a T. Anyone tried it?

Even before anyone answers, I want to thank you for your help. You are always such a blessing.

By Ron Dupree on Monday, May 28, 2012 - 06:51 pm:
Simple explanation. Grab the tire at the bead with the jaws of the 'Giant Hand'. Do this at several spots near each other to break the bead loose. Once the bead is loose, close the jaws by gripping the handle, then push down. If you are near the top of the tire, the swivel thing should swing down and now touch the top edge of the rim. Still holding the jaws shut, with the swivel thing against the rim, pull up on the 'Giant Hand'. The jaws are holding the beads together, and the swivel thing acts as a fulcurum so as you raise the outer end of the 'Hand' it pulls the bead out of the clincher as slick as can be. Makes disassembling a clincher on the car a lot easier.
Ron Dupree

I have another question or two for the experts. I might try changing a tire later but I still am not entirely certain about this so please tell me if I have it right.
1 Deflate the tube and use the "hand" of the tool to go around the tire to separate the bead from the rim.
2 With the tool handle going back under the car press the tool back toward the center of the wheel until the tire is pulled in enough for the swinging paw to set against the edge of the rim.
3 Now pull the tool out and over the rim, hopefully bringing the tire over the edge and off the rim.

Question, should the jack be down to do this? I know that there isn't much room in that rim for the tire to push up but I think that I remember someone saying that it does help.

Replacing the tire

1 I assume that you use the other end of the tool for this since I can't picture any way to use the "hand" end.
2 Assuming that letting the car down on the tire is advisable I guess that you would have value stem at the bottom with a little air in the tire. Put the stem through the rim and start the bottom of the tire onto the rim before letting the car down to compress and hold the tire in place.
3 I guess that just like taking it off, you will install both sides of the tire at once since I can't see anyway with the tool to work on one bead and then another.
4 The other end of the tool has a u shape that obviously sets on the rim and the other handle has a "foot" on the end to hold under the beads and pry it on.

Does that all sound right? One of the shops that banned me for life after installing a tube said that the flaps are a nightmare and I know that a lot of folks don't use them. Do I really need them with clean rims and new tires. Also, the second shop greased the tire bead with something to make it easier. Is that a good idea? What would you use, Vaseline?

Thanks for your advice. It is always appreciated.

One of these days, I'm going to attempt to master that tool - in the meantime, I use this stuff for mounting - did four 30 x 3.5 Firestones on Michelin disc wheels & I use flaps, 2 long irons & this manual machine yesterday ! Photo was when I mounted up my new Pharis Buffalo wires a couple years ago.

https://www.nomartirechanger.com/sp-lube-pint.html

About using lubricant; tyre mounting lube is not grease, it is Soap and that is important, as any kind of grease will stay 'slippery' , soap will not, it will harden in a short time. This prevents the tyre from slipping on the rim.
Tyre mounting soap is available in buckets and spray cans from any auto parts shop, but in a pinch any soap will do fine.

Lube I use is a vegetable base - all the motorcycle guys & gals use it - it eventually just goes away after you wipe down the excess.

Thanks for the info, especially for correcting me on the grease. I guess I will try it with a little dawn since we already have it. It might also help with removing the old tire. It would be easy enough to run a little around the rim after the bead is broken loose.

My old buddy that worked at a Harley shop back in the 60's told me they used Windex for assisting in removing old tires - break the bead loose & spray away.

Silicone spray is another option. I use it for anything involving rubber.

The silicone sounds better than soap. The tires that are currently on the car are ancient and hard so they will need help coming off.

Does the silicone stay & not allow the tire to lock onto the rim, allowing slippage for a period of time or forever like grease?

The question of how to use this tool comes up frequently. I think someone needs to do a video on how to properly use it before the knowledge is lost to obscurity.

I'm looking for one if anyone has an extra one in good shape.

I use tire talc and dish soap. Actual tire talc is mineral based not plant examples, corn starch or current baby powder.

I will never use silicone anywhere within cooee of anything that may need to be painted. Chasing down fisheries is not something I enjoy.
When looking at sites on beaded edge tyres it was impressed that any lubricant used to aid fitting should dry / dissipate so that there was no chance of it causing slippage of the fitted tyre. It is important, because all that keeps the tyre in place is the air pressure in the tube.

Allan from down under.

Found the tool. Additional instructions would be helpful. Those posted by earlier poster are appreciated and helpful but extra info would be nice.

I recently had a chance to try out my Marquette tire tool. The biggest issue I had was holding the arms together while manipulating the tire. This was a problem when both removing and installing the tire. I found an old C-clamp that worked, thinking about better methods for future use.

I first attempted the rear 30 x 3 1/5 tires which had been on for 30 years. The tool must be opened wider for the larger tire which reduces one hand leverage. I did consider making some extension handles for more leverage, again maybe a future project. No amount of squeezing (or pounding) would break the beads and I ended up removing the wheels and using other means. The tires were both very hard and difficult to remove, the tool was not useful and I set it aside.

When I took the valve stem out of a front 30 x 3 tire, the beads released easily so I gave the tool another try. Using the C-clamp I was able to squeeze the bead, flip down the fulcrum and pry the tire over the edge of the rim. I was then able to give one good pry with the irons and the tire came off easily, pictures below. I had the wheels off for other work, it might be even easier with the wheel on the car.

I then used the other end of the tool for mounting the new tires. The tire bead wants to slide off the tool when prying, you must hold the handles together TIGHTLY to keep the bead on the tool hook. My hand grip is not string enough to hold and manipulate the tire, so again clumsily used the C-clamp. The tool would get about 6 inches of bead started and I used tire irons in my "other hands" to get the tire onto the rim. I think it was easier than tire irons alone. Sorry no pictures of the mounting, not enough hands to hold the camera.

The Marquette tool is a keeper and it's going under the seat with the tire irons. It made quick work of tire removal and I will try it again if/when I need to remove a 30 x 3 1/2 tire. A few people in my club are thinking about the "clamp issue", I will update if we have any workable ideas.

Old C-clamp on handles Squeezing bead Helping bead separate with tire iron Fulcrum in place Tire removed enough to finish with tire iron

Much appreciated tutorial, Jay ! I have the same tool but wasn't clear on the operation - your photo in the "leverage" position make good sense ! I noticed on your last photo, when I've gotten a tire that far over the rim, it can usually be pulled right off over itself by hand. I have a manual tire machine but next tire I have to work on, I might give the Marquette a try !

And remember, when the tool was made, there were no tires that had petrified on the rim for 30+ years. Using tires that were made in the same decade as when they are being removed or installed, is probably a more reasonable use case to determine the efficacy of the tool.

Given road conditions at the time, along other factors related to daily use (when was the last time that you checked the air pressure on your modern ride?), flat tires related to punctures, pinches and random impacts were a much more common thing. Swapping or repairing the tube by the side of the road was probably just another joy of being a car owner. With regular practice, I'm guessing that those guys could fix things and get back on the road faster than most drivers could swap in the spare for a flat tire today.

Keep crankin',
Eric

I love my Marquette tire tool! I keep it in my flat tire bag of tricks and recently used it while teaching a Chebby guy how to mount 30x3-1/2 clinchers.
He watched in amazement and asked, "where did you find that tool?"

After mounting three tires with four hands, he mounted the last one by himself using my ratchet strap trick:
I use the "off" end more than the "on" end.

: ^ )

Keith, I can't tell if both beads are still to be fitted over your rim. Your ratchet straps serve the same purpose as the clamps i use do. When levering both beads on at the same time, in the last little bit one bead goes on first, and I need to be careful levering the last little bit of the second bead on to avoid possible damage to the tube.

What sort of wheel is your Chev rim mounted on? I once had a Hayes wire wheel with TWO valve stem holes in the felloe so a Chev rim could be fitted as well as the Hayes rims that fit Ford wheels.

Allan from down under.

Many, many thanks, Jay for the photos and explanation. I first had to change a clincher on my '15 a number of months ago. Two days, many hours and time added to my stay in purgatory for the language I used before I finally got it fixed. Then ran across an article for this tool. Found one on eBay a while later, but still a bit in the dark as to how to use it. Until now...

A thought on the clamp idea. Several years ago I made a set of crucible tongs following a design in an old blacksmith's book. Long handles that came out at an angle and they needed to be squeezed and held tight to secure the ladle. Copying the design, I made a piece in the shape of an "8". The "8" slides back along the two handles as they are squeezed and serves to lock them in place under tension. Admittedly, the handles on the tool are smooth and the "8" relies on friction to hold it in place, but this might give some ideas...

Just tried using an "S" hook. Had to open one leg of the "S" a bit, but here's a picture. Haven't tried it under battlefield conditions, tho... Just food for thought...

The S hook is a good idea. I have a temporary tube in one of my rear tires, I will give it a try when I put the “real” tube back in.