MTFCA Forum

I have owned four Model T's, and the crappy horn buttons all inevitably stop making contact. Is there a standard fix for this perennial problem? A new and improved button? A time tested work around? Thanks!

Clean & retention the contact as you would for an ignition switch. Make sure the button can move a good amount.
The repop buttons have a narrower slot that disallows the proper movement.
Original parts work quite well.

You might upgrade to a Canadian horn button on the steering wheel nut.

Allan from down under.

The original horn button on my cars work OK for me and work every time. They are pretty simple in construction. A good ground and the wafer spring contact itself is all there is to the button to work and activate the horn. Bending the wafer spring a bit and the contact kept clean makes a working button.

BUT on the other hand a defective horn can be the problem too sometimes. In my case it was the horn and not the horn button that was the problem.

I've driven T's for 43 years. Never had a horn button go bad.

These are horn button drawings from the MTFCA gallery:

And then there are the ones the vendors sell. So what "button" is being criticized. Repro's. originals?? picture of a failed one could lead to a solution

TillieTheTouring wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 27, 2024 8:02 pm

I have owned four Model T's, and the crappy horn buttons all inevitably stop making contact. Is there a standard fix for this perennial problem? A new and improved button? A time tested work around? Thanks!

Even a poor horn switch can be repaired. Best to use new wires, stranded and tin first with solder to make the hook to fit the little screws, or replace with new ones. About the only thing that happens to the bakelite button is the nub inside that pushes on the ribbon contact can wear down. Have replaced that nub with head of an upholstery tack anchored in epoxy. The ribbon contact should be cleaned and springy to provide the electrical needs. Mount carefully and the switch will be like new again.
A tiny drift pin helps align the two lugs on the underside of the Bakelite contact part to pass the bolt thru, as you hold the bracket and button in place.

I took the inoperable map light off my '26 dash and got a weather proof
modern button (20 amp) and a fuse. The button fit perfectly in the pre-existing
map light hole. The repro switch I have had no spring back feel to it. The
repro switch is on a shelf. I can change it back to stock easily if I
choose.