MTFCA Forum

Hi

I have a problem, and although I have riveted new ligaments and everything reassembled, backwards and brake only works the first gear not quite packs when I step on the pedal, it is slow and I can not climb high.
Although the set screw is already more screwed in like the old bands and there he was almost better
Material is kevlar.
Or I should have inserted this in oil ??
Or can be that the adjusting screw see further picture hears out so that it is better?

But it works so if I press the left pedal, the band reaches and the first gear is active, as soon as I let it go, the second gear is in it.

Does anyone have an explanation why it does not work
Yes, everything is assembled correctly





greetz patrick

Is the cam for the low speed pedal worn? Was it ever replaced? If not, that's what it might be. If that is the problem you can compensate for the wear by placing washers behind the band ears. Not the best solution but it is a temporary fix until you can pull the hogs head and replace the cam.

Do not drive the car until this is corrected. It could lead to drum breaking.
I agree with Fender. I think the problem is the Cam and Notch. Best fix would be to remove the transmission cover(hogs head) and remove the pin holding on the notch. Then remove the bolt holding the cam. Be very careful not to drop anything into the transmission. While you have the hogs head off, carefully rotate the engine and transmission examining the drums for cracks. Especially the low drum. If it is cracked, you will need to replace the drum.
Replace both the cam and notch and then when you have everything together, you should be able to move the pedal down about one inch from high gear to neutral. Then as you move the pedal farther down it will begin to move the shaft toward the right and clamp the band tightly around the drum. Adjust so that the band is completely tight when the pedal is one and one half inch above the floor.
If everything is correct, You will push the pedal down hard and be in first gear. Let the pedal back half way out and be in neutral and all the way back high gear.
Norm

what nock do you mean? picture?
What should I replace ??

Do I really have to down the upper gear cover again?
is a lot of business
Funny, that's all else is possible

I drove a bit already
but do not come up a mountain

Was this happening before you replaced the bands?

Can you send me a picture of what you mean for a nock that I should replace
First gear was never right but better as now

greetz patrick

Here are a couple of threads that deal with the slow speed notch or pedal cam with pictures.
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/70 ... 1489083840

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/70 ... 1502138019

A worn under size drum will cause the same issue. Temporary fix with the washers as noted above or shim under the band.

Hey guys

I discovered the following
on the service flap, I have found that when I press the left pedal move two levers, picture hangs
on the right lever is missing a kind slotted sleeve which is secured with a splint, as can still be seen on the left. However, the left is also a bit lame
What are the levers for?
And maybe that's my problem why my first step does not work right
because ribbons are new
drumming good





What do you think is broken? Maybe something with the clutch?

greetz patrick

On your first photo, the adj. screw for low pedal appears to really be about fully turned in, so the low band must be a bit too tight, with new linings.
Can't know why that screw now all the way in, as with new thick linings like the Kevlar, there should be more adj travel and screw should be sticking out more.

On the clutch fingers, that missing piece is a cotter pin, keeps the position of the adj. set screw, and it should be in place to maintain the set screw depth. You may find that old cotter pieces broken in the oil sump, when you drain the oil, good way to fish it out. Replace with a new cotter.

Your photos show the fingers are relaxed, (normal) as the hand lever is vertical, that is 'neutral', Or pressing on that left pedal (low) does the same, releases the clutch fingers so that the clutch disc separate and that is 'neutral'. Only when the hand lever is thrown forward, and the low pedal is no longer depressed, do those clutch fingers push on the clutch disc pack, that makes the T go into 'high' or direct gear.


Clutch engaged, as this assembly has no hand lever or low pedal to pull back on the clutch spring, that has tension on the 3 fingers, Note the cotter pins, in the slots of the small set screw in the clutch finger, that screw puts force to the stub below that is the clutch push plate.

These are the 'cams' that activate the pedals.

But before you start to think things are broken, you should try to re-set for 'neutral' again. Often times when replacing the low pedal lining, the adj. screw has to be repositioned. As you want low pedal band lining to tightly grasp the low drum about 2" from the floorboard, never fully to the floor and never too loose either, for loose will let the lining slip.

After you make that adj.. with the large screw on the right side of the hogshead, you MUST then go about re-position of the clutch lever and low pedal clevis connections, using the small adj. bolt on the clutch lever.

You will want to be sure the T has a 'neutral' when the lever is about straight up, and when thrown forward, the clutch lever fully clears the small adj. bolt, ensuring that you have the T in high or direct drive.

On a 1926 transmission, the rear band (the brake) is supposed to be wider. Your Kevlar material is wide, but your band is narrow, like low and reverse. This combination of parts will not last very long and will not provide all the brake power that you should have.

This may be a difficult search for you, but you need to be using 2 narrow bands and 1 wide band. Then follow advice given previously and make sure the low pedal shaft moves in to squeeze the band for low gear, and then FULLY releases it to go into high gear.

Scott

The trans drum shown in his photo is a Large '26-'27 style drum. You can see it clearly and the special long boss 3323B driven plate bolts used in '26-'27 too.

Nice about this forum, if you click on his small photo, and allow your PC to run the foreign site, the photo is enlarged to wonderful big size!

And you can clearly see the Large drum.

I only lightened the small one some, but you may can see if zoom in large drum and those 'standoff' bolts on the recessed large drum driven plate.

Dan

You're right, but I did not say the drum was small. I agree, it is clearly big.

Now that we're past that... do YOU normally see that much Kevlar sticking out from the width of a wide band? This transmission appears to have a wide drum, wide Kevlar material, and a narrow band that the wide Kevlar is riveted to...OOPS!

Scott

Oh my

You are soo... right! Totally missed that! Large brake drum with narrow drum band.

Dan

Scott, I made the same mistake, and I was looking for just that situation. I took the wired bolt heads as those used to fix the driven plate to a narrow drum. Now with Dan's tip to magnify them, I can see what I was looking for in the first place, namely , wide drum, wide lining, narrow band. I guess there is no real problem in use, other than the benefit of the wider brake band will be lost.

Allan from down under.

I have made on the wide drum and the wide band on it
as it was before, so should fit

So as I see it then it is just a recruitment problem?
the splint is definitely missing
and the slot screw or sleeve in the clutch finger where can I get it from?
greetzt