MTFCA Forum

I have added electric lights to my 1914 touring to make it more drivable. This included replacing the acetylene headlight burners with halogen bulbs that draw a lot of power and require a full size car battery for extended usage. I put the battery under the rear seat with a fuse box and hid the wires in the body and frame to keep it looking wireless underneath the car. The only obvious lights on the car are the turn signals and I am looking for options to put hidden turn signals on the car.
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Here is my two part question...To free up space under the rear seat I was wondering how hard it would be to mount a full sized car battery under the car like they did in later models and if I did put a battery box under the car and I had it judged, how much would it impact the scoring?
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Thank you for your comments...

Bryan, I would use a 6 volt Optima red top, lying on its side under the back seat. Out of sight and taking up minimal room. Better that than drilling/fitting a battery in the frame under the car, and easily reversible if needs be.
Allan from down under.

Bryan, I’d stay away from a later style battery mount, especially to avoid drilling your 1914 frame.

Why not use a period solution instead? Many people installed batteries in their 1914s when new, either in a specialized battery box on the running board, or under the rear seat.

This is from a Western Auto Catalog.

In the last photo of an after market battery box it shows the weight to be 81 lbs! Maybe I read it wrong but is that including the battery too? If it shown to be 81 lbs. that has to be a misprint.
To me the box would about 20 lbs at the most. If you wanted to mount the battery in a battery box you could use a period correct running board tool box that’s about 10” x 16” or thereabouts. It’s a good probability owners did that or something similiar.

Shipping wt 8 lbs.

I also electrified my lights. I put a period correct battery box where the missing carbide generator would have been. I run a full size car battery also for halogen lights keep it charged with my magneto.
As far as judging, a real judging would/should nail you hard for the halogen conversion & turn signals anyway.
If you are collecting trophies from the local hot rod meets & cruse nights it wouldnt matter.

Thanks for clearing up the battery box weight big2bird! Didn’t catch the detail because it’s run together. That sounds about right for the weight since I have a running board box similar to that and it’s close to 8-10 lbs.

I used an 6 volt Optima battery, it fits under the drivers seat between the gas tank and side of car. Totally out of sight. The solenoid fits in there and the momentary switch protruding just under the seat lip. All hidden.

Best solution yet Brian. I had no idea that an Optima battery would fit in that space. Way to go!

Allan from down under.

Thanks for all the good ideas. I have been thinking about an Optima battery. Maybe it is time to get a little more serious. The 12v halogen lights are pretty bright, but they do draw quite a load on the battery. I think they have deep cycle optima batteries.
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My wife wants me to make the car into a show car, but I like driving it to work on sunny days. I thought that I remember reading that if the modifications you make are for safety you will not lose points. The main changes I've made are the lighting....Halogen bulbs where the burners were plus brake lights and turn signals. Besides that it is pretty close to stock. Did I read the rules incorrectly about allowable modifications?

I didn't realize the MTFCA had rules ! Perhaps you're referring to the other T Club !

Have you considered LEDs. They will draw a lot less current. I know several on here use them.

Steve, I am not sure what judging rules I actually have to worry about because I don't take the car to shows, but every time I do something to my 1914 touring my wife asks me if that is the way it came out of the factory. I think she wants me to show it. She has actually been encouraging me to put smooth white tires on the car. I think she is just trying to stop me from driving it to work.
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And a second response to John, I have tried replacing the burners with LED lights a few years ago. The best ones available when I tried them were not very bright and I felt very unsafe when I was driving at night. I replaced them with 55W halogen light bulbs and they are much better. The halogen bulbs screw into the burner holders and the wires run down the acetylene gas hoses and unless you look closely you will not notice anything different from stock. They pull a lot of power, but they are bright. I know there are some new LED lights available, but I am not sure how well they compare to the halogen bulbs.
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Also...my office is right next to Lake Michigan. I stopped on my way home from work and took this picture about 7 weeks ago. Isn't cruising the beach after work better than going to some show and sitting for hours? Maybe I don't need to worry about keeping it strictly original.

The MTFCI has judging standards and their big tours usually having judging events - we don't "show" personally, but we tend to keep most items stock.

Steve,
Beautiful car. I know it is not stock, but I really like the natural wood wheels. I do have one question, what kind of hubcap or hub cover do you have on that car? I've never seen anything like that. Was that an add on you could get back in the day? Can you still get them?

Thanks - those are an era accessory "hub cover" that were remade quite a number of years ago - I have an original set on my Racer & an original set on the Centerdoor wood wheels - she's sporting Pharis Buffalo wires at the moment ! I'm kinda partial to accessories !

Steve, if you get a chance would you post a close-up of those hub covers? Thanks—beautiful car!

I purchased them from a fella in California, I believe many years ago - they might have advertised in the Vintage Ford Magazine. He was spinning them.

I'll get a close up - the fronts are "bowled" and the rears are quite flat.

Thanks, Steve! Just when you get a chance. I figured they were made by spinning.