MTFCA Forum

It was a small adventure but here it is:
This is the opened top half of the turn switch. The instructions say to scrape away paint from the steering column so that the clamp makes electrical contact between the column and the exposed zinc casting. Some time ago I already stated that we disassembled the frame, fixed it, painted it and reassembled it to find poor grounds everywhere. We decided to run a separate wire for ground to all points needed. And here we are again, attaching a small black wire.
There is a blade fuse, not the glass one provided, from the starter switch positive hot, red wire to the brake switch. Two red wires leave, one from each side of the brake switch, one carrying the hot, and the other for the brake light. These two red wires join two black wires from the bright contact of each tail light into a loom.
It's time to make brackets for the front turn lights, single contact, no parking lights on the front.
This is the hole for the motorcycle turn light which has been repurposed.
With the turn light mounted in place and a piece of cardboard, it's time to mock up the lower brackets. I'll upload more photos and story but for now I still have a job.

It looks like we have the same switch, I'm not scraping paint off my column either...

I'll be installing mine after I take possession of my new 24.

I already have brake lights, but will be adding turn signals on the 4 corners.

I was thinking of making removable brackets, for shows and such, but I think I'll just enjoy my car...

I have that pesky job thing too, I need to find a remedy...

You are welcome to do the same as me.

This is just conduit that I keep rolling as I strike with a hammer.
Got the shape that I wanted.
Both get a round hole, aligned.
Top plate gets the square, for tightening the two brackets.
Both brackets are mounted together in order to round the corners.

I used the same ground wire that was being used by each headlight for the same reason. This screw goes into the headlight fixture as the focal length adjustment of the bulb.
1/8" Rubber friction hold.
I had to purchase extra...hate saying it...metric nuts on the business end to prevent cracking the plastic mount. There is stress between the two brackets and using only 1 nut puts way more pressure on the plastic than it can handle.
The turn light fixture is plastic. So, it's already required to have a separate ground wire. It reached the headlight. These use 194 style bulbs and finding them in 6v was a challenge. But they came with 12v bulbs and are somehow working on 6v.
Out of place but doesn't look too ugly.
Drilled a 5/8" hole above the steering column for a rubber grommet and used a worn out grinding disc to de-burr both sides.

Wrapped the two front lights together. Wrapped the two red and two black turn signals together.
Grommet is in place. Wiring harness is wrapped, not just in the plastic tube that comes with it. The extra long black wire is the additional ground. My first thought was to solder the wires together inside the cowl & dash area. But then I remembered the way Henry did it and followed his example. Cut down the bus bar, crimped blade connectors for the flasher (6v electronic), and came up with a plan. This flasher requires a separate ground anyway. I do not quite have a mounting location but am considering utilizing the strews from the stock bus bar to hold a bracket on the inside. Makes me think, why didn't Henry mount the electricals on the other side of the firewall? Ran the two outside harnesses through the grommet. Finished attaching the wires and tested the lights, but found a problem. All the turn lights blink, stop light, lights up, hazards blink but...
When I turn right, the rear right is bright and the left blinks dim.
When I turn left, the rear left is bright and the right blinks dim.
I do not have this problem on the front since the front does not have parking lights as they are single element. When I turn on the headlights, then problem goes away as the parking lights stay lit and do not blink. My first thought is a faulty ground and i spent the next hour proving that the ground is good to both sides. I had expected that power was back feeding to the opposite side to find a negative. I disconnected the power wires to test for a bad turn signal switch. Then, I removed the covers off the rear bulbs to examine the two LEDs. All individual LEDs light up on low power and all light up on high. There are not two true separate circuits and the bulbs must be back feeding themselves. To test this theory, I bought two incandescent 6v bulbs. Problem solved. These two LEDs are poorly engineered but there are no markings that I may report to you.