MTFCA Forum

Hogs head fun! Got a counter bore and a Bridgeport. Added some oil seals to all 4 shafts. now let’s get this thing assembled!
Bryant

Finally got my top bows painted after many hours of restoring the wood and replacing rotted wood of the rear curve with a piece of azek PVC leftover scrap. The stuff is great for nailing and can be bent with heat. Next up: wrapping the bows, then on to the top.
John

I have continued to enjoy the very smooth performance I get with my 'timer with points' which floats on a bearing on the camshaft.
About 250 miles so far....

What I like best about your timer is the reinforced hole for the rod. Mine looks like Bakelite and is worn with slop in the timing adjustment.

I got my 26 Touring started today. She doesn't like the cold. when it's below 65 she will not start, but when it's above 65 no problem. Now I will give her a good run when our weather gets better.

Here’s what I’m up to

I made a key for my running board tool box. I took parts off an old worthless coil I had almost thrown out.
I’d like to take credit, but a fellow member posted this fix on a post I saw in the past. Whoever you are, thank you for the idea.
I took several attempts cutting and filing to get a usable key


Scott

Got the gap set on the magneto, man I dislike that job! LOL Not as much gap as I would like but for the amount I will be driving this car, should last a good long time. I had also recharged the magnets. Spinning the flywheel, you can feel the drag they have on the coil ring.

Added a new badge to the front axle. Funny story behind it, the Great Lakes HistoricAutomobile Club, of which i am Vice Presiden, is locatedin Australia. While browsing online to see what had been posted about the club, I came across this badge from around the time of the club's inauguration— and the item location? England! ... Neither me nor the seller could work out how it found its way to the UK

Fitting top bows on my 1912 Roadster.

Cap and Lizzie, outstanding in their field. Lizzie is a handy “mule” to pack us around moving the sprinkler pipe and pulling up electric fence stakes so we can harrow the pasture. My faithful work companions !

Still today, the T is putting the horse out of work.

But not the dog!

On my Gallivan powered '15 roadster, I replumbed the pressure oil system. I searched the internet and found a full flow cleanable oil filter (new manufacture).This filter has a threaded inlet and a threaded outlet to which I attached a new pressure hose up to the gear drive oil pump. I added a T fitting at the deep pan outlet to allow me to install the inline filter, and on the other side of the "t" I added a ball shut off valve. This allows me to drain the oil without loosing the prime up to the gear drive oil pump. With the deep sump the oil could not be totally drained from the original pan plug.

I also changed out the old oil lines from the pan outlet to the oil pump and from the oil pump to the oil manifold that distributes the oil to the mains, both overhead camshafts, and to the cylinders/pistons.

I might add this was a very messy job it seemed to drain oil forever. I now have clear and clean lines and 40#'s of oil pressure at start up and very steady. At speed and warm a very respectable 30#'s. With the deep sump it takes 2.5 gallons to let oil drip out of the top oil check valve.

Now I'm ready to take it out and hit the road. Get some seat time and make any adjustments, and ready for the tour season.

Just sayin'

frontyboy

Relining transmission bands! Took the opportunity to go through the process with my daughter. It being both our first time doing this, we spent time researching and planning out the job. It appears to have worked out great. This will coincide with her automotive service badge for her American Heritage girls troop. Learning about auto maintenance and engine and drivetrain principles I figure why not work on a Model T!

Bryant

Jones in Aiken SC wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 04, 2025 2:03 pm

IMG_1638.jpgFitting top bows on my 1912 Roadster.

Can you do mine next? You've got all that practice!

I bought a set of bows from Snyders where the ends were already formed, meaning tapered and grooved. Took some sanding and fitting but it beat carving the ends from a chunk of lumber. So I cheated and saved myself the aggravation of wood carving, which I ain't too good at. I am a welder/metal worker hobbyist, not a wood guy.

just picked it up Sunday, and have about 75-100 miles on it so far.

I already added turn signals and I'm adjusting the reverse band tonight...

I hadnt really wanted to take Daisy all the way down, but given the rebuild of the rear as well as the tranny, the tear down began yesterday. As good as the top side paint is on the fenders/running boards, the undersides however are pocked with lots of small rust bubbles. Given coastal salt air, that just spells trouble. So, everything's coming off at this point to be stripped & repainted, and will also lift the body off so I can do the frame as well. Surprisingly the body is in excellent shape, and will probably leave it alone other than some minor touch up....will see.

Pulled the axle today. I don't even need to disassemble the thing to know the driveshaft thrust bearing is shot, simply looking at how chewed up the face of the 4th bearing is!!

Decided to take our 3 year old for a little ride... only a couple of miles down the road and back.
I wish I'd checked the tyre pressures before we left...

I took my 1916 coupelet off the jackstands, put air in the tires, turned grease cups, oiled oilers, put water in the radiator, charged the battery (it has a starter as I am old), and went for a drive yesterday. It ran great.

j
Finally got the 22 Runabout carburetor back on and got it started up. Plan to drive to the Local Museum for a couple hours this afternoon if the weather co-operates. Several months ago I replaced a valve I had installed under the hood so I don't have to crawl under to shut off the gas. That valve was leaking and I bought another one. It was about 1/16" shorter than the former one and I couldn't get the line to pull up to the carburetor. after several attempts, I decided to take off the carburetor and attach the line then pull the carburetor up to the manifold with the bolts. That worked. Then I had to find several very slim cotter pins so I could attach all the adjusting rods including the throttle rod. I got all the leaks sealed up with fuel repellent type sealer and Yesterday started it up. Now just pump the tires and drive to the gas station. It only has about 3 gallons in the tank and will not pull the hill back to my home unless the tank is over half full. Big job when 89 years of age. Would have been much easier when younger. When I get on the creeper, I have to turn over on my aching knees to get up from the floor! Wish I were about 80 again!

Well! Drove it to town and went to the Sinclair Station and filled up with Dinosaur gas for my Dinosaur car. Then on to the museum. Was there a little over 2 hours and it started to sprinkle. When it was time to drive home, it was raining pretty hard. Got quite cold and wet, but made it home and in the garage to dry out. Also changed my wet clothes. I am more creaky now than before because of getting down on my knees or back under the car to work on it. These things would have been very easy for me a few years ago. Anyway, I am now home and dry. Just tired and achy. Will be having dinner in about an hour. The car and me are drying out now
Norm

After what Norman just did I basically did nothing….

I just aired up the tyres to 38psi and filled up the gas tank and reset the odometer on my app…

This week should be productive though, I have LED headlights, the reverse pedal extension thing, and a bevins bell due on Tuesday. Along with some other odd and ands including and extra set of keys and a lube chart…

WillyR wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 26, 2025 10:23 pm

After what Norman just did I basically did nothing….

I just aired up the tyres to 38psi and filled up the gas tank and reset the odometer on my app…

This week should be productive though, I have LED headlights, the reverse pedal extension thing, and a bevins bell due on Tuesday. Along with some other odd and ands including and extra set of keys and a lube chart…

21" tires? 30x3.5 takes 60# Never mind - I dug back to previous posts & see your tires are 21"
38# would be above spec, but if you prefer that, ok.

speedytinc wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 26, 2025 10:40 pm

WillyR wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 26, 2025 10:23 pm

After what Norman just did I basically did nothing….

I just aired up the tyres to 38psi and filled up the gas tank and reset the odometer on my app…

This week should be productive though, I have LED headlights, the reverse pedal extension thing, and a bevins bell due on Tuesday. Along with some other odd and ands including and extra set of keys and a lube chart…

21" tires? 30x3.5 takes 60# Never mind - I dug back to previous posts & see your tires are 21"
38# would be above spec, but if you prefer that, ok.

Firestone | 440/450-21

I had dug through some old threads here and 34-38 was the consensus.

I’ll see how I like 38psi may go down to 34 we shall see what she likes.

Correct tire pressure is 32 PSI according to Ford Service Bulletin 1927, volume 8, no 9, page 183. Supersedes Ford Service Bulletin 1926, volume 7, No 7, page 40.

I’m not a professional flower ah-ranger, so I don’t charge much…..

The previous flowers kept blowing out of the vase so I hot glued these in.

I'd run 27 PSI with 4.40/4.50 X 21 balloon tires, as recommended. On a coupe with front & rear bumpers, maybe 28 PSI. Hard tires will hammer the car on anything but a perfectly smooth road. A slight reduction in total tire mileage to help preserve the car in good condition is a worthwhile tradeoff in my opinion. Tires running at 27 to 28 PSI cold will save wear and tear on the body and chassis while providing good handling, good tire life, even tread wear, and a smoother ride for the occupants of the vehicle.

My '23 Runabout evidently craved fiber in his diet and tried to eat his timing gear. Replaced it with an aluminum one to discourage gnawing on himself.

Overhauled coil box with plastic parts kit primarily to cure chronic ill-fitting coil box lid problem. It worked perfectly - hooray!

Last picture taken yesterday in Gonzales, Texas while on a 72 mile Sunday lunch run.

TXGOAT2 wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 27, 2025 7:11 pm

I'd run 27 PSI with 4.40/4.50 X 21 balloon tires, as recommended. On a coupe with front & rear bumpers, maybe 28 PSI. Hard tires will hammer the car on anything but a perfectly smooth road. A slight reduction in total tire mileage to help preserve the car in good condition is a worthwhile tradeoff in my opinion. Tires running at 27 to 28 PSI cold will save wear and tear on the body and chassis while providing good handling, good tire life, even tread wear, and a smoother ride for the occupants of the vehicle.

Humblej wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 27, 2025 12:29 pm

Correct tire pressure is 32 PSI according to Ford Service Bulletin 1927, volume 8, no 9, page 183.tire pres.JPG

Supersedes Ford Service Bulletin 1926, volume 7, No 7, page 40.
Tire.JPG

I’ll give her a shot at the 28-32 range this week.

38 was too rough.

KurtM wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 28, 2025 9:48 am

My '23 Runabout evidently craved fiber in his diet and tried to eat his timing gear. Replaced it with an aluminum one to discourage gnawing on himself.

Be sure to remove the crankcase inspection cover to remove all of the shredded gears bits that you can. Change the oil too. I had a broken off gear tooth that found its way into my oil tube funnel. The result was a ruined front main bearing.

Yesterday's project was to install a 7.5 degree advanced timing gear. I'm satisfied with the improvement. I had installed a reground 280 cam last year and it destroyed my low rpm torque. The grinder is unknown (not Chaffins) so I did not know if the advance was ground in. It wasn't. Idle quality was immediately improved too. We have a club outing this weekend and I'm looking forward to adding miles. There was a concerning bottom end knock that is now barely noticeable. That is baffling but I will take it.

I also replaced rings and connecting rods. I had one heavy rod. I weighed two (stopped there for obvious reasons), and it weighed 43g more than the other. My piston and rod assemblies are now balanced within 7g. The massive vibration at speed is significantly reduced. It was a good month for me.

I had a noise in the differential in my ‘24 Touring that irritated me so late this winter, I pulled it out and took it to a good friend’s shop to troubleshoot it. It didn’t take long for him to see the ring & pinion gears were shot. I ordered new parts and soon had it back together, and a couple days ago my neighbor came over and helped me reinstall it. I can’t wait to take the Henry T out for a spring drive without any wierd noises. Here’s to another year of great touring!