MTFCA Forum

I bought a oil kit from one of the venders it has a t handlethe only way i see this working is to come up thru the floorboard into the car if i angle it out to come out into the engine compartment then the tube is not long enough to get around the hogshead any one install one of these ? I have an older guy that wants it so it will make it better on him.

Steve,

On an older kit, I once was considering, it called for a hole to be drilled / cut in the passenger side splash guard, so the tube would stick out of the splash guard. Thus allowing a person to check the oil from OUTSIDE the car and without having to open the hood.

I do not know if the one you have is the same model or not, but it sounds like it is. I think putting it through the floor boards is not a good idea as it will be susceptible to damage from kicking during entry / exiting.

You might try to contact the vendor for more information, as I seem to remember there were instructions and dimensions for the hole in the splash guard.

Good Luck,
Terry

Besides the one Terry is referring to, I've installed several of the "T" handle type and they are mounted up to follow the hogshead up towards the manifolds and the dipstick is near the carburetor - one has to lift the hood to check.

T-3069 DIPSTICK INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

I put one on a 26 coupe a few years ago.
I used a close ripple about 2 inches long
Screwed to the oil pan, then a coupling
On the end then screwed the brass fitting
for the lipstick tube. I attached top to firewall.

Frank thank you for the illustration what you pictured is what he purchased i will take a second look at it. The man up in montana is still making the ones he sold at the winter clinics itreplaces the drain plug on the bottom of the engine and can be mounted on both sides of the engine it also has a more period looking dipstick and is superior to this set-up. again thanks for the help and thanks to all the others here who responded.

Steven, I bought two oil dipsticks in Bakersfield many years ago that are what you discribed, replacing the drain plug in the pan. Sorry but I do not recall the company or the man’s name. They do look very period correct but I cannot stop them from leaking oil like crazy. No matter how much Teflon tape I use, white or the yellow tape, after a while I get a lot of drips on the driveway that makes my wife very angry. I finally took one of them off of the 15 T and hoping that I may have only the normal amount of oil drip but I cannot be changing oil every month. Any ideas for the problem, anyone? Frank

bnchief wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 04, 2025 8:38 am

Frank thank you for the illustration what you pictured is what he purchased i will take a second look at it. The man up in montana is still making the ones he sold at the winter clinics itreplaces the drain plug on the bottom of the engine and can be mounted on both sides of the engine it also has a more period looking dipstick and is superior to this set-up. again thanks for the help and thanks to all the others here who responded.

Do you happen to have any contact info for the guy in Montana making these?

Antique Auto Ranch - Tom Carnegie, I believe. And, he's in Spokane, WA.

RajoRacer wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 05, 2025 11:25 am

Antique Auto Ranch - Tom Carnegie, I believe. And, he's in Spokane, WA.

Thanks Steve

Sarikatime wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 05, 2025 9:54 am

Steven, I bought two oil dipsticks in Bakersfield many years ago that are what you discribed, replacing the drain plug in the pan. Sorry but I do not recall the company or the man’s name. They do look very period correct but I cannot stop them from leaking oil like crazy. No matter how much Teflon tape I use, white or the yellow tape, after a while I get a lot of drips on the driveway that makes my wife very angry. I finally took one of them off of the 15 T and hoping that I may have only the normal amount of oil drip but I cannot be changing oil every month. Any ideas for the problem, anyone? Frank

They will however what i did was to use the two copper gaskets and use the "right stuff make a gasket sealant make sure the pan is drained and you get no oil on threads put the sealant on both sides of the gasket as well as the pan and the fitting tighten it up and let it sit for 24 hours as far as the screw in pipe plug i use a pipe dope compound that is non hardening and works better than teflon tape always back up the pan fitting when installing or removing the plug so that you do not break the seal on the pan fitting if you have more questions pm me and then we can talk on the phone if you wish.

I called Mr. Carnegie and left a message but he has not gotten back to me as of yet. The message on the phone number seems like a car dealership and may be a wrong number. I will call again today.

For those having a problem with oil leaking from the the banjo bolt of those dip sticks the problem is caused because the copper gasket is to hard and wont crush to conform to uneven surfaces on your pan.
The fix for this is to anneal the copper washers by heating with a torch and cool them quickly in cold water they will then be soft and seal the leaks
You can contact Tom Carnegie through facebook with a PM, he checks messages .

What's wrong with doing it the correct way?

Original Smith wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 07, 2025 11:52 am

What's wrong with doing it the correct way?

These two....

And the correct way is............ Am i permitted the use of a crawler? Should the petcocks be turned clockwise to open them? Which one is opened first? Can I use a plastic container to contain the drained oil, or does it have to be a tin? When dismounting the crawler do I roll to my left or right? Right is too hard on my replacement knee.

Allan from down under.

Have your wife check it however she decides is the correct way.

Wow, this post went sideways fast. Did I miss a post somewhere?