MTFCA Forum

So I was having great difficulty getting the bottom two bolts for the coupling ring to thread into the rear of the block. It was suggested that maybe the ball cap was clocked wrong and the hole was not at the top since the 4 holes are not all the same and that I might be able to turn it and make sure the hole is at the top. One can't see the hole because of the clutch spring and support. So now for sure the hole is probably not at the top since I rotated the ball cap.

Does anyone have a suggestion on how to make sure the ball cap is back in the right orientation? Anyone know the hole to hole distances for either the top 2 holes or the bottom 2 so I can measure and confirm possibly?

Thanks.

In your first paragraph you state “the hole was not at the top.” I presume you’re referring to the threaded grease cup aperture. Yes, that’s the only way it can be placed. Enter the bottom 2 bolts into the crankcase first and refrain from tightening them. Then you should have enough ‘wiggle room’ to install the top 2 bolts, washers and nuts.

The bolt pattern in the ball cap is equidistant. it can be installed all 4 ways. You will have to pull it back far enough to see the oil hole if you want to be sure its on top. If there is a full oil distribution trough, you only need pull it back/out 1/4" or so.

If you have difficulty getting holes lined up on a ball cap or any other holes use a long taper punch or if you don’t have one a screwdriver can work also. The holes in a ball cap are identical distance to each other. Sometimes putting the ball cap bolts in put one in the bottom and then one at the top and cross ways from each other and not one at the top and one down below it. Which ever way as others have stated works for you that’s the way to do it.

Sounds like the 4th main is not centered with the pan. Has pan been on a pan jig? Was 4th main bored offset? Is the driven plate running true to transmission?
Lots on things going on there.

George House wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 04, 2025 6:36 pm

In your first paragraph you state “the hole was not at the top.” I presume you’re referring to the threaded grease cup aperture. Yes, that’s the only way it can be placed. Enter the bottom 2 bolts into the crankcase first and refrain from tightening them. Then you should have enough ‘wiggle room’ to install the top 2 bolts, washers and nuts.

No, I was not referring to the grease hole on the coupling ring but the oil hole on the ball cap. I never stated it was not on the top. Someone suggested it might not be and that the holes on the top are not the same distance between them as the ones on the bottom. But what do I know. BTW it is a 1916 block.

Dan you posted it first but I was thinking the same thing, if the forth main did not go on with ease you’re looking in the future to significant engine problems. Best John

Speedy- OK thanks

John - I was thinking of taking a bolt and making a short stubby tapered alignment punch. Thanks

Dan - great, now I am really going to be up all night tossing and turning. LOL Engine was just rebuilt by a reputable machine shop so I hope so.

JTT3 wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 04, 2025 8:37 pm

Dan you posted it first but I was thinking the same thing, if the forth main did not go on with ease you’re looking in the future to significant engine problems. Best John

Ill third this.
However, with the motor in the horizontal position, one must expect the ball cap to touch low from the unsupported weight of the transmission. Touching one side first is a strong indication of a misaligned pan. & yes even a slight misalignment can cause serious issues including a broken crank.
There is a tell tail clue.
If the babbit is sloppy from a wallering output shaft, thats a strong indication of a misalignment or an off square output shaft. Oil will have been washing away u-joint grease. Ball cap clearance is supposed to be rather tight: .0015"-.002"

Sounds like a job for (wait for it). TWO PIECE FLOATING TRANSMISSION SHAFT!

I am hoping part of my problem may come from the frame being on jack stands and the rear hanging and not sitting on the wheels on the ground.

skyhunter wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 04, 2025 11:34 pm

I am hoping part of my problem may come from the frame being on jack stands and the rear hanging and not sitting on the wheels on the ground.

That is probabaly not just part of your problem, but perhaps all of your problem.

speedytinc wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 04, 2025 9:12 pm

JTT3 wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 04, 2025 8:37 pm

Dan you posted it first but I was thinking the same thing, if the forth main did not go on with ease you’re looking in the future to significant engine problems. Best John

Ill third this.
However, with the motor in the horizontal position, one must expect the ball cap to touch low from the unsupported weight of the transmission. Touching one side first is a strong indication of a misaligned pan. & yes even a slight misalignment can cause serious issues including a broken crank.
There is a tell tail clue.
If the babbit is sloppy from a wallering output shaft, thats a strong indication of a misalignment or an off square output shaft. Oil will have been washing away u-joint grease. Ball cap clearance is supposed to be rather tight: .0015"-.002"

Let's not get carried away. When did the OP ever state that the ball cap would not go in? He only said that the bottom two holes did not align. I believe his comment above, about the rear end hanging down while the chassis is jacked up, is the main cause of his issue.

Jerry that could be some of it but you can see post several remarks was the first time we learned the T’s frame was lifted off the floor. With that known now the question begs for more information, Do the fourth main holes line up with the end of the hogshead/pan holes “within reason”? I must admit l don’t like that “” part. Mostly using Scat cranks I haven’t really seen the sag that we’re use to with orignal cranks. Best John

JTT3 wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 05, 2025 8:18 am

Jerry that could be some of it but you can see post several remarks was the first time we learned the T’s frame was lifted off the floor.

Yes, an excellent point!

Without the coupling ring in place, do the bolts easily thread through the 4th main into the pan?

Stephen

If the engine was built by a reputable engine rebuilder, the 4th main should be in the correct position when you accept delivery of the motor.

I am assuming you are attempting to connect the rear axle to the engine. You will have to pull the 4th main back far enough to see where the hole is unless there is a groove in the babbit and that you should be able to feel if is extends the length of the 4th main.

skyhunter wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 04, 2025 11:34 pm

I am hoping part of my problem may come from the frame being on jack stands and the rear hanging and not sitting on the wheels on the ground.

EZ enough to confirm this hypothesis. Jack both sides of the rear end up & try the ball cap fit again.

Tis my next move.

The ball cap does go in. It has a Scat crank.

Did not think that the end hanging by the spring would be a possible contributor till I looked at the whole picture which was why I mentioned it.

I just thought maybe the holes of the coupling ring were just a bit off. Like when a brake line is pulling just wee off side enough to cause that damn brake line fitting to never start threading in.

One just never knows what they don't know till they ask.

I think I will first confirm the coupling ring hole at 12 o clock for sure. Then maybe take the rear out and test fit the bolts through the coupling ring. Might be best to clock the coupling ring with the U-joint and shaft out.

Then fix the missing 2 brake shoe tabs on the backing plate so I can get the rear on with the wheels attached.