MTFCA Forum

I am sure a common front fender problem. A tear as seen in the pics. I had the same issue with a previous roadster.
I paid a fortune to repair, only to have the repair begin to crack. The fender was repaired while it was off the car.
I think the stress of reinstalling may have weakened the repair.
I'm thinking to repair this fender while still on the TT to avoid any installation issues.
Incidentally, the roadster fender was not a bondo repair.
Any thoughts?
As always, many thanks in advance.

Steel crystalizes, or becomes brittle, when subjected to flexing. Model T fenders flex from vibration and road defects. Many of them have also been bent to some degree or other and straightened, or had cracks welded in the past, and most have some degree of corrosion. All these factors can complicate repairing them. A good repair can be made on or off the car by a good sheet metal repairman. Making sure related parts such as running boards and fender braces are straight and that all bolts are in place can prevent cracks, and keeping the chassis in good condition and the springs lubricated can reduce the stress on the fenders and other bodywork. Don't over-inflate tires. Avoid rough roads when you can, and reduce speed on rough roads when you can't.

No repair of that fender will last until the broken wire edge is replaced with (about) a 8" replacement which spans the area of highest stress. It's not fun, but can be done. I know it can, because I've done it, and not because AI on the web told me.

A pretty decent tutorial is here: https://www.lionsgatemodelaclub.com/Tech_Sessions.html

Scott is correct that, in this case, the wire needs to be replaced as part of the repair. Several years ago I restored a 1915 Runabout that had cracks in the vertical flange of rear fenders. In my case, I fabricated some 0.03" or 0.04" doublers that I installed with JB weld on the inside of the vertical flanges, and also encapsulated them with another coat of JB weld that extended past the added doublers. Once dry, I sanded the JB weld down to a smooth transitioning bump on the inside of the fender flanges.

Anyway, that repair method worked for me. The paint did crack along the original fender crack line, but structurally the fender was stabilized and never progressed in the several years after I owned it before selling it last year. It probably would have been better if I could have had it welded, but I didn't pursue that approach, mainly because I wasn't sure who I trusted enough to weld it and not warp the fenders.

Any repair needs to be as flexible as the rest of the fender or new cracks will develop if the car is driven much.

I recomend you find how long the crack is and drill a small hole where the crack stops. Untill you stop drill it, it will continue to grow.

FWIW, I'd as soon consult a "California Psychic" for advice on repairing an antique car fender as "AI".

Humblej wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 09, 2025 1:01 pm

I recomend you find how long the crack is and drill a small hole where the crack stops. Untill you stop drill it, it will continue to grow.

I agree. This is the way that A&P mechanics do it on airplanes.

Thats how I learned stop drilling.

Could just Time Machine back to the the local Ford dealer or auto parts dealer and grab a metal patch.

You could’ve bought something from an auto parts store for .16 c ?? I went to an auto parts store last week to buy round felt colored corrosion preventers for under battery cables…. $3.53 a set !!… So I went to Hobby Lobby and bought a sheet of felt for .25 cents and made my own..
Just call me Steve Jelf.

When I repaired our fenders, i replaced the wire and put a bead undernaeth the cracks. Saw my uncle do that on a VW Beetle. The insurance man said that after an accident that it needed a bead to reinforce the area. He said that too soon, as the bead was already there.