MTFCA Forum

I want to take off the aluminum hogshead and convert to a starter. Do I make a 6 volt system or a12 volt. I know this has been discussed in detail before, but, should I buy 6 or 12 volt converted starter. Lighting and accessories would work better on 12 volts but would kill my bendix after a while. Most us old farts would rather just turn a key, myself included, but what is your opinion? Would it lower value or desirebility if I want to sell the car?
Please chime in, would appreciate your thoughts.
Frank

I’d keep it 6volt. Everything you need is available in 6v including led bulbs if you want.
Don’t think 12v gets you anything but conversion problems and ‘why did you do that ?’ questions.
Just my opinion.

I agree absolutely to keep things 6 volt. The PO of my car converted to 12 volts but kept the 6 volt starter. He ran it that way for years and I’ve been running it for 6 years so far with no problem with the starter or starter drive.

Agree with others, stay 6 volt.

Six is standard. If you have a generator it is also made for 6 and the lights are 6 volts. If you don't have a generator, then you can use anything you want. However, you should have a starter wound for 12 volts. The six volt starter will slam the flywheel too hard and lead to problems with the bendix.
Norm

3rd choice is all 6 volt system and a 8 volt battery, I have 4 T's with 8 volt batteries, 3 with gen's and 1 with mag charger. also another T that's 12 volt with a mag charger. All have been faultless. no broken bendix's or even a blown globe.

I agree with Kerry. I use 8v batteries also. No problems at all just adjust the 3rd brush in your generator. No need to change lamps or anything. Don

After priming, my '13 started on compression today, so why do you even need a starter? Leave it the way Ford built it!

Would it lower value or desirebility if I want to sell the car?

The answers so far have mostly dealt with technical issues. The answer to this part of the question is a qualified yes. Some prospective buyers want original and this kind of "upgrade" will put them off. But others are too physically afflicted to pull a crank anymore, and will appreciate the starter. And there's a third group who won't care either way. As much as I prefer originality in major features like this, I suspect the second and third groups outnumber the first.

I ran a 6v starter on 12v for my speedster for years without a problem. My Mom's speedster has been running a 6v starter on her speedster at 12v for almost 40 years. It is convenient having a 12v battery if you drive frequently should something happen. Say you stop at a store and someone gets in your car and flips the lights on in the process of trying to take a picture. No problem getting a jump if you are running 12v . . .12v you can wire in a USB to keep that phone charged or whatever. As far as keeping it original by changing to electric start it's no longer original anyway. I suppose it depends on Your use, if you are around others and have 6v availability driving infrequently then yes 6v may be best. Personally I drive frequently (38 Lincoln converted to 12v) and would hate to have to wait for something as silly as a light bulb to arrive. Being able to turn on the light switch and see like a new car is worth it to me. I found LED lights that fit into the original sockets and they do shine with almost no power draw.

I’m currently in the process of doing the exact same conversion on a 1912 T that is in a Motor Museum. They claim the vehicle
will be used a great deal more on runs if a starter is fitted. (The art of cranking is an issue to some)
I too decided to stay with 6 Volts as I have never had an issue with my 1926 standard electrics. Besides, if in the most unlikely event you had to go 12 volts you can install a resistor in the starter circuit to drop the voltage down to around 6V.
Just my experience. Alan

Sorry to go against the grain on this one but once a starter is added to an early car it is no longer “correct”....
So why not make it convenient and easy to drive and maintain. When customer come to me asking to add a starter, convenience is what they really want. So I add the ring gear on the flywheel, a twelve volt starter, a belt driven alternator and a easy to purchase group 40 battery. Often they want to get rid of the coils and I add reliable distributor or an electronic commutator.
Once it’s not original, who cares. My own 1914 which I drive everywhere actually has a 24 motor and full twelve volt system complete with USB port . It’s a great fun car.
About the resale value, most early Ts have been modified and as such are worth what someone will pay. I would suspect than less than 1% of 1914 cars are “original”. There is one in the San Diego club and it’s only been driven a couple of times in the last twenty five years. Where is the fun in that?
Make it what YOU want and then enjoy it to the fullest.

Frank; Having been into everything from stock Model T's and A's, to Model T speedsters, to pre 1948 street rod's, I think that Tony is messing with us a little, but he does have a point about making the car what you want, to enjoy it most. In the early to mid 1920's many early brass Model T's that were still in use had later Model T engines installed with the 6 volt starters and generators, but they were still Model T's and drove like Model T's. If your budget allows you could rebuild a later Model T engine and keep the early engine to go with the car if you sell it. If a 2nd engine is not possible and your car already has the starter type transmission keep the starter on 6 volts for starting and run the stock coils on mag, it still drives like a Model T. If you have a nonstarter type T flywheel there is a lot of labor involved and your budget will dictate which way to go. Now if you are going to make annual 3 thousand mile coast to coast and back trips over the next 5 years, there is a lot to be said about a late 1926-27 closed T with a 302 engine, AOD auto trans, power rack & pinon steering, 4 wheel disk brakes and air conditioning. I am just kidding with the last line.