MTFCA Forum

I posted on this in my build thread, but wanted to do something seperate.

I currently have nothing aside from a ball valve under my tank. I would like to put something to help filter impurities to the carb/engine.
I do like the possibilty of putting a sediment bowl/bulb in place of the ball valve, this would only use the brass screen to catch things. But it looks like the connection on those are 1/2" NPT or Straight (needs packing nut/felt) ?

And if I went the route of a modern fuel filter, some have mentioned the issue of flow issues from being gravity fed?

What is the most common solution to filtering fuel?
Or am I over thinking this issue (as I usually do).....

Here is my current tank connection: This is a sediment bowl/bulb I have seen on eBay or parts dealers -- the input threads look to be 1/2 NPT|Straight And this is the Napa 3032 inline filter
There is also maybe the option of a glass bowl filter?

Ben,

It is ALL up to YOU to make the best decision for your truck. Since you're asking for experience of others, I would recommend listening to Ron. He KNOWS what he's talking about. What he recommends, has worked extremely well for him, and others, for many years.

A man/woman can gain experience by doing it themselves OR by listening to a good Teacher.

Good Luck

I do not disagree with you or Ron at all.
I just learned to always include a broader audience from time to time.

There are times when all you know is what is "right" because that is what you learned to be true (that isn't right or wrong) and then there are times when new things come up that you may not be aware of. I like knowing as much as possible to make an educated decision.

So that is why I created the thread. I'm curious what others are doing and why.

I prefer to keep my Ts mostly stock especially the fuel delivery system although I do install a shut-off at the carburetor. The repro sediment bulbs have a decent track record - I've installed quite a few. I also use annealed 1/4" steel brake line to make my own fuel line & use neoprene gaskets. It's quite a simple solution but ditch the inline filter !

When my Dad and I restored my grandfather's 27 coupe, with cowl mounted tank, back in the 1960's, I can't remember whether we had the original sediment bulb/filter, or not, but we chose to replace it with a modern glass bowl bulb with brass filter screen and built in shut off. I worked fine and stayed that way until this millennium when I went back to the original when doing a updated restoration.

Under seat vs cowl tank is apples & bananas. I would not be surprised an inline filter worked on a cowl tank.

Hi Ben,

Looking at the photo that you posted of your gas tank connection, it raises a few questions. It appears that the tank outlet is too small for the stock sediment bowl. It also appears that the tank outlet is almost directly above the exhaust pipe. I would not expect to find either if it was a stock Ford gas tank. If these things are true, and your vehicle has an aftermarket/re-purposed/non-stock gas tank, then your options point towards a one-off solution. A separate glass bowl sediment filter (without the internal pleated filter element) can replicate what the Ford "potato" does. You would need to source one, I would look towards vintage tractor parts suppliers. Once found, you would then need to figure out a good place to mount it. Since this would be a completely custom installation, the advice here will probably be limited to general considerations.

Some folks run electric fuel pumps if their fuel tank is located somewhere that a gravity feed is less effective. With a fuel pump, a modern fuel filter cartridge becomes more viable. Typically, adding a pressure regulator is a good idea with a fuel pump, to get the fuel pressure down to the <2 psi that the stock Ford carburetors are comfortable with.

Alternatively, installing a reproduction Ford gas tank would mean that you could use more stock parts and get more specific advice on getting things back to "spec".

Keep crankin',
Eric

That looks like a natural gas/manufactured gas pilot light valve.

The 1953 Rheem furnace that was original to my house had a "B" handle valve for the pilot light, but the inlet and outlet were in straight line, not 90 degrees like yours. It was a tapered valve, not a ball valve, with a tension spring and screw on the opposite side from the B handle.

The new repro bulbs seem to work fine. If thread size is an issue, you can use a pipe thread reducer. I went to a tractor sediment bowl with a fine mesh screen. No filter element. Some of these tractor bowls have a built in fuel shut off. Similar to

Don’t use an automotive type in line filter. What I’ve always used on my T’s is a lawnmower in line filter. Most of them are gravity feed like the T. It’s not the same as a pump type auto fuel system. Never had a problem using them.

It depends how authentic you want to be. I appears the flange for the gas tank has been removed. Maybe you should find a good used gas tank, or buy a new one. Don't assume a used sediment bulb will be useable right off either. Most of them have a hole punched through the screen. When I did my '25 It took 5 sediment bulbs before I found a good one. and lots of cleaning with carburetor cleaner, scratch awls and lot's of blowing backward to get all the junk from within.

was up til 2:30a (from last night) installing the new wiring harnesses and undoing my grandfathers hot-wiring job.... what a mess that was!
while I was underneath the "T" I got a couple drops of fuel on my forehead, so started inspecting the tank.

...Looks like he also tinkered with that too. It definitely needs to be replaced. There was a plate welded the bottom, which is why it looks so different. Some of those welds are corroding and starting to leak fuel.

I'll look out for an oval tank, then I should be back on track for that part of the vehicle.
Its amazing for the amount of tweaks done that were done to it back in the day to keep it on the road. Lots of ingenuity going on for sure! I plan on updating things like this as I find them.

Ben - word of caution: there's usually some reason/reasons that a used gas tank becomes available. New ones are available albeit pricey, but one less worry !

NOS first for me, then lightly used as the next option.. I learned that before the hard way.

Do your self a favor, buy a new tank. Used tanks are like used radiators. They are not on a car for a reason.

I bought a NOS oval tank at Chickasha. I put it on my car and used it quite a while until the flange developed a leak, and I had to take it to a radiator shop to get repaired. In the meantime I put on a nice used tank, which is still on the car. I didn't feel like going through all that trouble again! The NOS tank is still waiting for the day when it can be of service again.

My speedster has a tank that sits up on a "shelf" behind the driver, much like many speedsters. There isn't much clearance under the tank, and no room for a sediment bulb. I wanted there to be some kind of screen/filter and a paper one (which I removed from the car previously) caused flow problems. Ended up fashioning a custom screen from one of the Model A screens (available at vendors) and a spare brass NPT adapter (which I believe was 1/4" NPT female to 1/4" NPT male). I brazed the Model A screen onto the male end of the adapter carefully such that it would still thread into the tank. A little loctite fuel sealant and it's been perfect. This may not be super helpful to you given the looks of the connection on your tank, but might give you an idea. Also a good option for those with a standard tank.

I've come across a filter that looks like what you posted... it would work, but if you ended up with some trash/sediment in the tank there would be no way to drain it out easily right?... at least not something as easy as turning a petcock valve or removing a bowl.

It’s tough to beat the design of the Ford sediment bowl. It gives you the ability to shut the fuel off, filter out dirt, drain any water or sediment, and drain the tank all in one.

AND they leak. Some more, some less.

mtntee20 wrote: ↑

Sun Aug 24, 2025 2:16 pm

AND they leak. Some more, some less.

Presuming you’re referring to the original Ford sediment bulb ? Mine does not.

Requisite is a sediment bulb in good enough condition that the valve can be “lapped” to a proper fit. Assemble the parts with an application of that heavy, pasty fuel valve lubricant, which will also keep the valve cone from sticking in the body. In my experience there’s no substitute for the original lead washer to seal the fuel line outlet in the “spud”. Treat the drain petcock the same way, of course.