MTFCA Forum

I have a Ruckstell assembly that I am “refreshing “
When I assembled it a number of years back, the axle tube was severely bent, I opted to try the heating and shrinkage method. This did move the tube , however not far enough so I straightened it in a hyd press,…. Turns out this a mistake.
Initially it brought the axle tube into alignment for a while.
After a few years the axle seal started leaking, upon investigation it seems the axle tube was misaligned once again.
So this time I decided to replace the axle tube , using one that was from a non Ruckstell differential, which I shortened and hot riveted to the Ruckstell housing.
Turned pretty good, although I am concerned about potential oil leaks around the new rivets. Thinking it would be best to seal from the inside of the tube.
I am considering using RTV sealing, but has anyone out there gone down a similar route?….maybe there is a better product??

Dave

Maybe paint the inside with Glyptal?

Consider green (wicking) locktite.

I would be tempted to braze them like the oil pan.

The inside needs to be oil free for best adherence, that said Red Kote once cured works very well. Best John

if you change tubes, be a ware that the rivet holes in one pumpkin do not necessarily line up with those in another. It is best that you weld up and dress the holes in the donor tube. Then you can drill new holes using your centre casting as a template. Of coulse, you need to make sure you have the backing plate "clocked" correctly with the centre casting.

Allan from down under.

Allan, thanks for the tip, however I used as a doner a tube from a non Ruckstell . This required shortening of the tube, and of course drilling new holes

A late friend used rtv to seal rivet holes on.a 12 rear end with new rivets. I did the same years ago. Kinda shade tree but no leaks.. I wouldn't braze or weld like they did in the fifties. Can warp the housings badly. I've seen it.

I'll second not brazing/welding. I had to do that on both castings on my 1912 van to fix cracks between the rivet holes. Both pieces needed to be machined true on the thrust faces and the joint between the two housings. To do this I had to make a spiggot to mount them on before fitting the whole to the lathe. It may not be such a problem with the later straight tube type axle housings.

Allan from down under.

Wonder if this is something Chaffins to do for customers. I was going to contact them about installing a tube in a Ruckstell housing but never got around to it.

I am not familiar with changing a t axle tube. Will this be a pressed fit that you will have to turn the tube down to get it to fit? If so here is a suggestion as I have changed many broken outer axle tunes on off road dump trucks..
If you have to turn the outer tube down to fit, turn it down so it is 2 thousandths larger than the hole in the pumpkin. Have the hole very clean. Have some timing marks on the outside of both parts, you can use a felt marker on the tube butscratch marks on the pumpkin or use a file corner on the edge of the hole. You can also put scratch marks on the tube. The a bx that is a little larger than the turned end of the tube and put the tube in it and put broken dry ice in it part way up the tube and let it cool down to shrink it. In the meantime when you are ready to press it in, take a torch and heat the tube area of the pumpkin to expand it. It does not have to be real hot but a little more than you want to touch. Line up your tube and press it in.
Measure and mark your depth before you start.
If you want to use a sealer that is up to you. You might want to put a little bevel on the end of the tube and when it cools use a oil resistant silicone in the bevel or a sealer of your choice.

I replaced an early backing plate on a Pertecto housing with a 26-27 backing plate. Very tight fit. Must be careful in your situation not to crack the housing when pressing the tube. Figure a way to support the housing from the inside so you're not pressing on the bolt ring. Also perfect alignment is critical so the radius rod lines up at the ball end of the driveshaft. I had no leaks without using sealant on this one..

The non Ruckstell axle tube is the same diameter as the OEM Ruckstell tube . The main difference is the non Ruckstell tube is longer. Not a huge job to shorten it.
It does take a lot force in a hyd press to insert the tube.
I made rivets and installed them hot.
Happy with the way it turned out.

Question, is there any type of thrust surface inside a left housing? I would have to go to the attic to look at one. if there is a thrust surface, would it be better to press there than against the outer bolt flange?