MTFCA Forum

I have a brass one here. When the shut off lever is open, it only exposes half the port. Are the tapered arms on the brass units different than the iron units?
Also, does anyone know if the taper is 6* or 7*?

Sorry, I do not understand your questions but seeing no one has answered in ten days, compare to this iron one I have listed in the classifieds:
https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=50173

I'd guess the handle is bent or twisted.

I've found that the handles are not interchangeable.

The brass units appear to have a stronger angle.

The earlier brass units with out the hex at the top to wrench them tight certainly have a different taper to the later brass ones.

Allan from down under.

Allow me to clarify. The taper of the shut off from an iron unit is about 6-7*, using trig since we don't have an optical comparator.

The brass unit pictured has a stronger angle, more like 10*.

I was going to rebuild it, paint it black, but I have the incorrect arm.

If someone wants the body, and has the correct arm, email me.

RajoRacer wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 25, 2025 11:45 am

I've found that the handles are not interchangeable.

Yes sir.

In the for-whatever-it-is-worth department? Some years ago, I picked up a damaged and very incomplete brass bulb for my 1915. It had been dented in in the large threaded opening, but not badly dented. I was on a tight budget, and the price was right.
The dent was an easy fix, a rigged up mini-jack and a little pressure with a little heat (being careful due to brass) and only a little bit of Dremel tool to clean up the threads.
In my box of miscellaneous outlet drain potatoes and pieces, I found a nice front outlet that fit well.

THEN, I discovered that the taper was different

Me, being too stubborn to be smart enough to know when to quit? Some careful measuring, and very careful grinding (brass can be dangerous on a grinding wheel, so VERY carefully). Followed by careful filing, bluing and cutting, more bluing, more cutting. Final fitting was by lapping with medium and then fine lapping compound.
I had to drift the flow-through hole to one side a little bit The wider hole shouldn't hurt anything.

So far, it seems to work fine.