MTFCA Forum

Just starting this month’s thread.

And I swapped the trickle charger from the ‘27 to the ‘14.

Eric

I am in Colorado for a wedding and my T's are holed up in the garage, so I haven't done anything. When I get home I hope to go for a ride, especially if it is snowing.

Movin' stuff

Today, finished machine work on front axle and spindles assembled and installed the complete assembly. Radiator shop called and my brass vee radiator is restored and ready for pick up.

just sayin'

FRONTYBOY

Today, in New Orleans, I let our T get an extra hour of sleep. I've been saving up an hour of God's time for this moment.

Getting to know the status of my Grandfathers T. Took off the inspection cover to take a look around in the engine. Just want to get familiar with the engine and it's current state.

Have to say I was pleasantly surprised! First thing I see is dippers on the rods, then aluminum pistons. Everything looks good and I can see shims still remaining on all the rods and the mains. The car has no knocking, but being new to Model T's figure any knowledge is good knowledge. I wiggle the caps and there is no noticeable play, only a very small amount of side to side play. No sludge or build up.

My plan was to figure out how to blow out the oil line, just to make sure it is clear. Then add two of the internal accessory oil lines, figured they can't hurt to have. Oh and check the rod bearings to see how they are doing.

I rigged up an air hose setup that I was able to worm through the gear to the stock oil line outlet. Gave it a few generous blasts with the air and could feel the air flow coming back from the hogs head. So seems clear to me.

Pulled the #1 cylinder rod cap and the babbit looked great. Still had shims left on both sides and the crank was perfectly smooth. Put a piece of plastigage in, retightened then compared to the gage. It was a nice uniform thickness all the way across the bearing, measuring 0.0015".
Did the same to the #4 rod and had the exact same 0.0015". Decided to leave #2 & #3 alone as all looks and sounds just fine.

Now time to add the two accessory internal oil lines. Took out the "horseshoes", cleaned them up, ran a tap through them to clean the threads. Then test fit the oil lines to them. They needed some tweeking to get a good fit, but nothing crazy. It was a bit tricky to get them in position, but managed to after a few derogatory words. Then made sure there were no clearance issues, all good.

Cleaned up the Inspection cover, un-dimpled the bolt holes and got it good and straight. Gave the IC bolts a good run in degreaser in my small ultrasonic cleaner, then rinsed and dried them. Gave it a thin film of Ultra Black on the gasket side, let it tack a little them placed the gasket on it. Then aligned the cover/horseshoes and oil lines up with some 4" long bolts. Then put a thin film of Ultra Black on the cover where the nylon washers/bolts would go. Put a small amount of Ultra Black on the bolt threads at the shoulder of the bolts, slipped the nylon washers on and slowly started bolting it up. I very gently snugged up the bolts with a nut driver using a torque pattern from the center of the cover to the outsides. When the gasket was compressed uniformly, did a two stage tightening lightly by hand with a small 1/4" drive ratchet, Certainly didn't want to strip a horseshoe thread or over compress the gasket. Then let it all dry for 48 hrs.

Put oil in it today (10W30) and gave her a start. Sounds great, purrs like a kitten with a gas problem and no other noticable sounds. Oh and the big question..... No Oil leaks from the inspection cover! I would call this a great start to November!

The next project is to rebuild the rear axle, drive shaft tube and add some Rocky Mountain brakes. Need to do some research on all of these then will start the work.

Near the end of the driving season in Phoenix "May" I had a engine knock tightened up the rods but sill had the knock To hot to do more. So waited till November first to pulled the engine the third main didn't even touch the plastigauge I think I found the problem should be back in next weekend

Drove 40 miles in 62 minutes....

Finally got my 1020 Wrecker on the road for the 1st time. As I know, that's its 1st road trip (even though very short distance) in more than 30 years! It all went smoothly but I am really still trying to learn how to drive it and more importantly stop it without stalling! It made me very happy to see and hear the old T and I intend to take it out again for a longer run, maybe this weekend weather permitting.

Drove it and drove it. Got it up to 40-41 max on a flat straight.
Wife's car had a flat tire. Used the T to haul it to a garage for repair. The gas station did not have the correct valve stem, so had to make a parts run too, for the garage but I got the tire fixed for $10.

I needed to use my press to remove the pole screws from the starter that went bad at the Old Car Festival. I spent several hours putting stuff away and sweeping the floor so I could use my press for ten minutes. I felt like I accomplished something and the shop is a bit cleaner.

Tom, this is what really happens when you clean up your shop....

Dennis, you’re wrong about the 30%. My wife didn’t call me, my son was at work, so I did get to work in silence.

I did throw a new switch into my parts washer as I shoved it in a new corner. That wasn’t planned.

I can't clean up my shop. There's too much stuff in the way.

I'm Pat's brother from a different mother.

It takes me 10 minutes to move enough stuff to make a path to the back of the garage.

Nothing yet. But gettin’ ready to

I put together 3 rear end plates for some new Canadiam mufflers. I need some mufflers for next weekend's Bendigo Nationsl Swap Meet
These have riveted deflectors and mounting brackets. I add internal welds to keep the brackets fixed Allan from down under.

Put gasket where none was beneath float valve. Still got something to sort out with NH.

I gave the cooling system a little love. I drained the antifreeze/coolant and gave both the radiator and the engine a thorough wash out with a hose. Kept at it until the water came out nice and clear. Visually everything looked good, inside but the hoses and connector pipe were in poor shape.

Decided to replace the hoses and the connector pipe. Upon removing the inlet and outlet housings, they also needed some attention. This is a 27 so the outlet has the fan eccentric mount. Took the fan assembly off then gave them a good wire brushing followed by a good degreasing. Dried them and after masking off the gasket surfaces and the eccentic face for the fan, gave them a few coats of engine black paint.

Now the fan. I have never taken one apart as this whole T experience is new to me. I had NO idea that fan was designed to have oil in it and was spinning on bronze bushings. So cleaned it up inspected the shaft, not too bad, some play but wouldn't call it loose. The felt gasket is in rough shape. Gave the eccentric a good cleanup and a little grease on the mating surfaces to the outlet housing, then reassembled it. Half filled it with some gear oil leftover from a 12 bolt rebuild figured lets see how much it leaks.

Put the new hoses, conn pipe and gussied up inlet and outlets on. With, of course the fusing to get everything in the correct positions. Followed the advice of a thin film of Ultra Black on the gaskets and some silicon rtv on the hose connections to help "lube" them for easier placement (and sealing). Hand tighted up and let it set for 24 hrs.

Did a final tighten up then filled with two gallons of Prestone MAX premix. Had to fuse with a couple of weeps, then decided to do a test drive to find more leaks. Just a couple of drips of coolant from the hose connections at the inlet/outlet. OH and the FAN is making a MESS!

Let it cool overnight and retightened everything. Ordered new fan bushings, shaft, gaskets and felt seal(s) for the fan. Will completely rebuild it and hope it doesn't leak as bad after. Surprised there is not a neoprene option for the fan seal. But figured I will learn how to make it work as my Grandfather would have.

Thats all from the Shire.

The fan hub might leak less with 20W or 30W motor oil in it. Mine is a late type with the eccentric adjustment and it does not leak. The fan belt does not to be extremely tight. The Ford Service Book gives good information on how and when to do the various service jobs.

MotoBrew wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 12, 2025 7:10 am

Now the fan. I have never taken one apart as this whole T experience is new to me. I had NO idea that fan was designed to have oil in it and was spinning on bronze bushings. So cleaned it up inspected the shaft, not too bad, some play but wouldn't call it loose. The felt gasket is in rough shape. Gave the eccentric a good cleanup and a little grease on the mating surfaces to the outlet housing, then reassembled it. Half filled it with some gear oil leftover from a 12 bolt rebuild figured lets see how much it leaks.


Ordered new fan bushings, shaft, gaskets and felt seal(s) for the fan.

You might think of also ordering a new fan blade. Original ones tend to break when you don't want them to and new ones are super cheap and very high quality. If you're still not convinced, carefully inspect your current blade for cracks. Flex the blades just a bit and see if you don't find a crack looking back at you. I was certain the mine was in good condition, until I looked very closely... 3 cracked blades...

https://www.modeltford.com/item/3961C.aspx

Fans with cracks or loose rivets are an extreme health hazard. They can be hard on hoods and radiators, too. A fan that is bent or out of balance can be very hard on the bearing, besides wasting power.

Jerry and TXgoat, Thank you for your advice!. I will take a good inspection of my fan blade. It is the off season up here in New England so the perfect time to prepare for the next driving season! So on the balancing suggestion, how do you guys balance your fans? Curious how you do it. I do my own motorcycle wheel balancing but the fan blade would not work using this method.

If it is not bent, it is probably OK. You can check it by putting a light oil in the bearing and taking the belt off, then twirl the fan and watch where it stops. Do it several times. It should stop in a different place each time. (Mark one blade for reference) If one particular blade stops at the bottom each time, it's the heavy one. File a little off the outer edge and do the test again until the fan stops randomly when twirled. The fan will have to spin freely for this to work, and you need to be out of the wind. You can lay the fan blade assembly on a flat surface to check that the blades are all in the same plane, or very close to it, and check that the blade pitch is even or every close to it.

I rebuilt the starter off my car. This one got away from my previous rebuild projects and had to be replaced at a show.
This one received the new design one piece field assembly along with a new brush plate and brushes. I stamped one of the pole screws so I or my son can identify it someday without taking it apart.

It's a good day for cars; my son is here on vacation putting the front of his 351 Cleveland back together while I get to talk about the engine's idiosyncrasies. He missed the Motor Muster this year and promises it won't happen again.

When it is 75 degrees in mid November in Kansas, you take your T for a drive! I also finished putting together the engine from my 1914 touring project. It is a low mileage car, and the babbitt was good and the dimensions within tolerances everywhere, so I put new rings and replaced the original standard size cast iron pistons with some later standard size cast iron pistons from a 22 engine that I rebuilt a couple of years ago. I can see why the Ford service information encouraged the service shops to replace the old pistons if they were into an engine; the newer cast iron pistons are each about 1 lb lighter!

Had the honor of having the Grand Marsal representing the Korean War Vets & his wife in the Phoenix Veteran's Day Parade. And participated in
a personation @ Reid Traditional School for their studies of the industrial revolution. Craig.

Got the 26 Roadster on the lift for PM, front end bushings and to find a light knock in the motor.

Nothing… wife says I have to finish the master bathroom first! Lol

Tbird wrote: ↑

Mon Nov 17, 2025 2:55 pm

Nothing… wife says I have to finish the master bathroom first! Lol

IMG_3996.jpeg

LOL... and I know what that's like!!!
Having gutted and rebuilt 5 homes in our marriage, she never did understand the reality of living in chaos during the time required for this one man crew to complete the job. After finishing our current home I told my wife never again, I have too many other projects!!!

[image][/image]
Looks like I will be working on this little problem

Cracked low drum.

Finally got my friend to bring over his cherry picker so I could hoist out Daisy's engine, getting ready to haul up to Joe Bell.
Roadtrip!!!!!

Made a float pin for a 1911 Holley. Lost the original on the road but had another for a pattern.

Been a busy guy collecting parts, bits,and pieces

Got my brass vee radiator from the radiator shop, they totally disassembled the rad down to the bottom brace, hand rodded each core, cleaned top plate and bottom plate soldered it all back together including the top tank and side covers (now the polishing starts).
Picked up a 26/27 Ruxstel rear end in process to restore and add 3to 1 gears.
Picked up 4 brand new front and rear hubs, CNC'd made by the guy I bought the speedster from.

Finished my new spray booth. Added lights, heat, air, mixing bench, and exhaust fan.

I plan on having all major components finished, painted and assembled ready for installation starting Jan 1.

I am adding disc brakes, my Roof overhead, 26/27 wire wheels, the new Rootlieb speedster kit and the new round Rootlieb speedster fender set.

My goal of completion is assembled ready to test May 1st. Running and testing completed by June 1st.Then if all goes well looking for a some tours, including the annual NW speedster run. This schedule is only possible with the generous help of friends and my nephew who is the reason I bought this project.

RGould1910 wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 18, 2025 9:18 pm

Made a float pin for a 1911 Holley. Lost the original on the road but had another for a pattern.
20251118_153155.jpg

Shiny!

I've continued to accumulate additional parts for my build. Pretty soon, I'll be working on wiring. Unfortunately, it's a bit too chilly for painting the rims and other hardware in the garage.

Took that mysterious dizzy out of my '27 Tudor last weekend. Which was of course bolted on to the commutator spring screw.
So bleeded and took out the radiator also. No problem so far - want to change back to original style piping anyway.
Tried to put on the red hose to the radiator outlet - someone widened it up to a bigger diameter. Had some work to get it smaller again.
Sandblasted and repainted the engine water inlet.
Found out that the front spring is worn out - ordered new one.
Finally got all dizzy adaptering stuff off the shaft. Looks a little off center. Ordered centering tool and gaskets.
Ordered New Day timer.
Wanted to test compression - found out that I lost my compression tester adapter - ordered new one.
Got my rusty '27 coilbox with coils from ebay. Sandblasted the box - ordered rebuilding parts.
Cleaned out, measured, glued and recapped the coilboxes - ordered coil points and hardware.

In the last 6 weeks I changed ALL of the cables and added hazard warning lights (mandatory for street use here).
Began with interior restauration (panels, carpet, upholstery) - this '70s mustards colored stuff is way too ugly. Ordered (hopefully enough of) grey cloth with white stripes.

In summary: much work, much $$$ (or repectively €€€)

Next to come:
- compression test
- center timer cover and install timer
- add 'The old faithful'
- change transmission linings
- add mirrors

Best regards,
Jens

Made a new float for an 11 Holley to complete the project.

Mine is ready for her appearance in the Great Gatsby Gala Ball tomorrow night

Looks sharp!

I’ve driven mine twice. About 25 miles total.

My wonderful girlfriend and I, enjoying ourselves greatly, at the Great Gatsby Gala Ball, raising money for the Great Lakes Womens Shelter — sheltering and giving hope to women and children, the victims of domestic and family violence. My Model T fit in nicely with the 1920s theme of the event.

Got our '13 on the road about 3 weeks ago, so decided to take it to the Christmas parade today.

I think my model t doesn't hate me anymore, this entire month the few times I started it, there was no fuss, no trying to run me over, no difficulty starting. Mind you I did literally nothing different. To sum up November, I drove it a few miles only a few times pending work I have yet to do. All that was different this month is it finally doesn't hate me anymore. Sad to say I did not do more, but time is a rare commodity for myself.

Keep showing it some love, it's coming around.

Went for a drive in the forest today. Overcast and fifty degrees, still there is beauty in it's starkness.

Ok John,
Those pictures are great.
Let’s map out a tour thru the woods.
Any “over the river” places to go with “thru the woods”?

This low water bridge over the Courtois Creek, (pronounced coat-away) is closed to vehicles and soon to be replaced. But it doesn't stop four wheelers or model T's.

Potted coils today using a "period correct" 1920's gasoline torch and ladle.

Put on layers because it’s cold

Today is another great day. The last couple of months , I have been ordering parts right and left. Every few days another order will show up. This sure beats a pair of sox or a t shirt that does not fit!!Just like Christmas over and over. Getting all the bits and pieces lined up for the assembly process.

Today when I got home laying in front of my electric gate were 2 6'x2' boxes. Not sure what they were I brought them into my shop and opened them up. Wella!!!!My 4 new Rootlieb rounded speedster fenders. They were packaged perfectly and their workmanship as always, perfect. The best part was they arrived 3 weeks ahead of their promised time. Just another part of the puzzle.

I have ordered parts from Langs, Chaffins, Texas T's, Bill Bender T parts plus individuals on the forum. I salute those people that make and sell T parts. How lucky we are to be part of the great model T community.

Next time you order a T part from a supplier thank them for what they did for you having the part or piece you needed. With out those dedicated guys and gals and their model t businesses Where would we be. think about it..

just sayin'
frontyboy