A Better Clutch Adjustment Page
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Topic author - Posts: 6463
- Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:37 pm
- First Name: Steve
- Last Name: Jelf
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 touring and a few projects
- Location: Parkerfield, Kansas
- MTFCA Number: 16175
- MTFCI Number: 14758
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A Better Clutch Adjustment Page
When the subject of clutch adjustment comes up, often somebody will post Murray Fahnestock's article and drawing. It's usually a bad copy, and often unreadable. So I've put a better copy on my website. If anybody asks you about the subject you can refer them to this.
http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG111.html
http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG111.html
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
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- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Conger
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '13, '15, '19, '23
- Location: Clark, WY
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: A Better Clutch Adjustment Page
Very nice, Steve
went to your website for first time in a long time and read your first opinion article and can only say "AMEN"!
went to your website for first time in a long time and read your first opinion article and can only say "AMEN"!
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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- First Name: George P
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- First Name: Norman
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Re: A Better Clutch Adjustment Page
That's a good picture of the document. Also has a few more details.
Norm
Norm
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- First Name: Alan
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- Location: Western Australia
Re: A Better Clutch Adjustment Page
Thanks Steve for posting a clearer photo of the instructions. Before I do any of that fine tuning I remove the transmission
inspection cover and confirm that the clutch is set at 13/16” or the spring is compressed to 2” and ideally the three finger adjusting screws are well and truely backed off indicating the plates are serviceable.
Alan
inspection cover and confirm that the clutch is set at 13/16” or the spring is compressed to 2” and ideally the three finger adjusting screws are well and truely backed off indicating the plates are serviceable.
Alan
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- Posts: 1928
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:39 am
- First Name: Tim
- Last Name: Juhl
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- Location: Thumb of Michigan
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Re: A Better Clutch Adjustment Page
Thanks so much for doing this. It's coming at a perfect time as I will soon be setting my pedals and linkages. Wish me luck!
1917 Touring
1946 Aeronca Champ
1952 Willys M38a1 Jeep (sold 2023)
1953 Ford Jubilee Tractor
1946 Aeronca Champ
1952 Willys M38a1 Jeep (sold 2023)
1953 Ford Jubilee Tractor
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- Posts: 6428
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Conger
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- Location: Clark, WY
- Board Member Since: 2005
Re: A Better Clutch Adjustment Page
Tim
As a FYI, while doing the clutch adjustment, do not be surprised if the clevis needs to "grow" in length, and do not be surprised if you are at the tip-end of adjustment when you're done. This is a very common issue that is left undone by a great majority of service persons.
I just got through putting a 40 year museum car back on the road. It had recieved a fresh engine and a transmission refurbishment prior to display. The transmission was thoroughly out of whack and I needed to make and install a new threaded "L" portion of the clevis assembly that was 1/2 - 5/8" longer than stock. This is one of the most misunderstood and overlooked parts of the entire assembly. Also, after extension and adjustment, you do NOT want the assembly to have only 3-4 threads engaged...you want minimum 1 1/2 diameter of threads down in the "U" portion of the clevis before the jam nut is tightened. This will determine how much longer you need to make the replacement, if you need a replacement.
This is one of those simple supplier parts that would sell if only people who need them understood that they did...
As a FYI, while doing the clutch adjustment, do not be surprised if the clevis needs to "grow" in length, and do not be surprised if you are at the tip-end of adjustment when you're done. This is a very common issue that is left undone by a great majority of service persons.
I just got through putting a 40 year museum car back on the road. It had recieved a fresh engine and a transmission refurbishment prior to display. The transmission was thoroughly out of whack and I needed to make and install a new threaded "L" portion of the clevis assembly that was 1/2 - 5/8" longer than stock. This is one of the most misunderstood and overlooked parts of the entire assembly. Also, after extension and adjustment, you do NOT want the assembly to have only 3-4 threads engaged...you want minimum 1 1/2 diameter of threads down in the "U" portion of the clevis before the jam nut is tightened. This will determine how much longer you need to make the replacement, if you need a replacement.
This is one of those simple supplier parts that would sell if only people who need them understood that they did...
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured