MTFCA Forum

How is the flange that holds the posts where the planetary gears mount attached to the shaft? I ask because we’re trying to shorten the shaft by a few inches and if that flange is a keyed press fit &/or pinned it would seem the easiest route instead of machining the bottom of the shaft. That would involve a lot more work to do. We’ve thought about cutting the amount needed off in the area that would be covered by the column housing but decided that would prevent you from seeing any issues so the other thought was to remove the amount needed between the advance stabilizer fitting and tension springs. Thoughts???

It is a separate forging that is friction welded onto the shaft a little ways down. Look at it closely & you can see.

Best way to shorten is to re-machine a taper, keyway, & thread where you need it at the bottom.

Agree but hoping to avoid the work ha. Thanks John

JTT3 wrote: ↑

Sat Nov 29, 2025 6:53 pm

How is the flange that holds the posts where the planetary gears mount attached to the shaft? I ask because we’re trying to shorten the shaft by a few inches and if that flange is a keyed press fit &/or pinned it would seem the easiest route instead of machining the bottom of the shaft. That would involve a lot more work to do. We’ve thought about cutting the amount needed off in the area that would be covered by the column housing but decided that would prevent you from seeing any issues so the other thought was to remove the amount needed between the advance stabilizer fitting and tension springs. Thoughts???

Couldn't you cut of the flange & drill/machine out the undesired material and reattach as you hoped?
Also if someone is making a repro then they could do one for your needs

Machine the bottom of the shaft as others have stated...., done bunches over the years. Anything else is asking for a dangerous situation in the hands of those with limited skills. The shaft/flange attachment is where all the torque is located.

Just Sayin'

Henry K. Lee wrote: ↑

Sun Nov 30, 2025 7:48 am

Machine the bottom of the shaft as others have stated...., done bunches over the years. Anything else is asking for a dangerous situation in the hands of those with limited skills. The shaft/flange attachment is where all the torque is located.

Just Sayin'

Agreed. Much safer to chop & remachine the lower end.
Bonus: the new ,shorter section is new, unworn size.
I have done essentially the same job on shortened drive shafts. Takes a little time, but not difficult.
If you do chop & move the top, Remember to re-key to the long 3rd pins position as it was. (if the later, safer long pin top)

Remember to re-key to the long 3rd pins position as it was

in relation to the keyway at the bottom of the shaft (i.e. still at the same 'o'clock' position relative to each other).

A big advantage to shortening the shaft at the bottom end is you get an unworn shaft section at the lower steering bracket bronze bushing.

Allan from down under.

Thanks forum we’re going to go with machining the bottom of the shaft. After thinking over the options the only safest way of the choices available with the exception of ordering a shaft custom made by a supplier, was machining the end.
Best John

Getting the taper exactly right will be the toughest part, but yes, re-machining the tapered end is the best way, as you state.

Assuming no drawing available - or easier than using a drawing even if you had one:

before cutting, the original shaft can be set up and trued in the lathe. At this point the compound or taper attachment can be set up to trace the original taper to "0" deviation. This will be pretty much dead nuts for a setup.

everything below is just bonus words:

Mark the "set out" length of the steering shaft from the bracket to determine the desired length when in the new car. Install in the new car and once fully into the bracket, mark the set out length and leave extra for the threads.

Cut, drill center, install with a live center or at least a 3 leg steady rest (live center far better to keep correct taper/angle)

Cut taper and if necessary, blue the drag link, check for 100% contact and dress the taper as necessary using a "long lathe file"

single point some threads, drill for cotter, cut woodruff key seat, done

It might seem like a twitchy job, but it really is not a delicate or difficult job