MTFCA Forum

Is there an easy way to remove the battery from a 27 roadster? I'm thinking about getting a running board battery box like you see on TTs to allow easier access in the future. Pro's and cons?

Richard,

My best answer is that there isn’t an easy way. I use a son or grandson for my trunk work. As far as a running board mount, I prefer the original location with a maintenance free AGM battery.

A battery carrier or strap really helps lifting a battery and installing a battery

A good battery replacement solution to substantially reduce weight, eliminate periodic cleaning and adding water to the battery, and get about double the service life, or more, is to install an Optima Red Top 6 volt battery. To assure best results, replace your stock generator cutout with one of the identical looking electronic regulators. I just replaced an 11-year-old Optima battery in my T. It still started the car, but was showing signs of getting weak. It did NOT have the benefit of a regulator, but it still gave good service for 11+ years.

Thanks for the tips fellas. I'll check out the replacement battery suggestions and try a belt or battery strap to remove what's in there now. I know it'll be a struggle doing it solo. Might be able to con my sons in law to help.
I'm pulling the engine for transmission work. The car has sat for a few years. I'll want a new battery.
Any other thoughts?

Richard... I also use the Optima 6-volt Red Top battery in our '26 roadster, with installation I use two wood battery lifts underneath to raise from below with a solid hardwood or painted metal brace on top of that secured by the two end clamps..... along with the proper sized 6 volt battery cables. ..... The Optima battery is not as deep as the original equipment battery. This is why I do lift the battery with those wood sections and also cut some heater hose to length and then cut longitudinally to fit over battery frame holder so that the positive cable does not have a chance to ground out at the cable positive connector.

Out of curiosity....
Weight Breakdown for Popular Group 1 6V Models:
Duralast (AutoZone): 31.01 lbs Reserve Capacity Minutes 150min at 25 Amp Load Dimensions 9.38in\7.13in\9.13in
Continental: 30.0 lbs
Duracell Ultra: 33 lbs
Super Start (O'Reilly): 31-33 lbs

6-volt Optima RedTop starting battery (model 8010-044) typically weighs 18.5 lb
Reserve capacity of 100 minutes at a 25-amp load Dimensions: \(10.06"\times 3.63"\times 8.13"\)

Get longer cables and set in in the turtle deck wherever you want.

Richard, I use a battery strap that I bought at an auto parts house to life the battery in my 26 Coupe. Of course, to get to it I have to remove the entire seat assembly. All the while, I cuss at Henry for putting the battery in the most inaccessible, inconvenient location.

I use the leash that the vet gives me when I take my dog in and I just leave it there for the next time that I need it.

I agree 100% with Pat. Also I leave a loop of plastic packaging tie tied around the battery to haul on.

Allan from down under.

Use this strap, for 6 volt battery, works great! Hauled in an old battery for trade at TSC, and the clerk marveled, had never seen one

I see the picture of an Optima mounted in the Runabout. I have a '23 and an Optima but have used heavy tie wraps to hold it, not the best. I see you have some sort of brace going across. What is it? Do anybody else have a cleaver hold down that can be got to from topside? The tie wraps need to be done from underneath and being old & fat, this is very unpleasant . . .

Paul

Original picture from above:

Easy to use the Ford clamps and carriage bolts that held the factory battery box lid.

Use a strip of wood as the structure for the clamps to bite on. Works well, no shifting of the Optima, esp. if you also make a pad with tall side wood pieces under the battery bracket.


Side boards on board fitted on the battery bracket for support.

My hold down is also wood. I started with a thicker piece, marked the under side, and cut a rebate to accommodate the battery. It hols down. as well as in place.

My Auto elec son suggests that the battery strap that hooks on the terminals is not a good idea,especially on heavy batteries. They have seen far too many batteries where the terminals have been damaged and the seal between the terminal post and the battery top has been compromised. There is a very good reason why most batteries these days have built-in carrying handles. He is the reason I use a plastic strap under the battery to lift it out.

Allan from down under.

Before I switched to an Optima I would just unhook the clamps and cables slide under the car and push the old battery up and onto the floor of the deck. Not the easiest but better than trying to muscle it out from the top especially if you have bumpers in the way as well. Good luck! Jim

Hudson29.….. The brace that I have going across the battery is actually a modern aluminum universal battery hold down part that I used prior to a solid oak wood brace. The original style battery hold down brackets are still used to hold this piece.

I haven’t seen the easiest solution mentioned yet. I remove the spare tire on my ‘26 roadster. Only takes a minute. That gives you much better access to the battery and you can easily lift it with a strap.

I like a battery strap too. For a battery I use a standard group 1 battery in an original Ford battery box. I had to put a piece of plywood beneath the battery, and along the sides to keep it secure in the box, and level with the top. I also use an original battery box cover and clamps. No regrets.

Dan! I have a battery strap just like that. I’ve had it for years and always works great. It has the locking clips on it so it won’t slip out off the battery posts. In fact it’s been around here on the farm for years and as long as I can remember.

Larry, when I found a complete battery box lid and inspection cover, i also used same. The battery was clamped down using a couple of wooden spacers on the top at the ends, with the same original clamps that hold the lid down.
Until i had an electrical problem. In the time it took to rip out the tourer rear floor boards, undo the clamp bolts, undo the battery terminal bolts and remove the earth strap, things got very heated. I lost a loom but not the car.
Now the battery box cover hangs on the wall, which I expect was the fate of a lot of them over time.
That car now has a master disconnect switch, which I consider mandatory if you want to run the cover.

Allan from down under.

If running a 12V system, I have been really happy with these Odyssey racing batteries. They are small, light, and very high quality. A bit expensive, but my last one made it more than 10 years. Conventional batteries these days don’t hold up like they used to.

https://www.odysseybattery.com/products ... ery-pc925/

Neither of my Ts has anything to hold the battery into the battery carrier outside oo my tie wraps. I see the suppliers sell these hold downs sets. Can anyone post pictures of how these mount to the carrier and hold the battery? I have a '23 Runabout & a '14 Touring that has a battery mounted in what looks just like the carrier in the '23.

Paul

Paul, traditional wet cell batteries do not take vibration/jumping about well, without seriously degrading their life of service. Even in a battery box they need restraint. I can't see why restraining Optima batteries would not also be of benefit in holding them tied down.
To use the dealer supplied original type hold down clamps with replacement batteries these days you will likely need a base board under the battery to lift it up in the cradle. You may still require a spacer block between the clamp and the top of the battery. I use wooden blocks, thicker at the outer end and thinner at the battery end.This will allow you to set the height to suit your battery, and the stepdown on the clamp end will help keep the battery located within the cradle.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

ALL batteries need to be secured.
I have seen multiple batteries that have fallen into fans or belts or pulleys making a great mess.
Plus I have seen batteries move and short to something causing all kinds of electrical issues.
I have seen multiple Model T's where the cables are binding or dragging on the carrier because the batteries of today are shorter than when our cars were new. If it needs a spacer under it, adding a block of wood is cheap and easy.
If you run a battery box and or lid pay lots of attention not to create a problem.

No matter battery what you use:
Keep the connections clean and tight
Keep the connections away from any potential shorts.
Keep the battery secure.
Keep the wires secured so they can not rub, drag, get caught, get pinched or get into any trouble.
Batteries are concentrated energy waiting to get out and in trouble.
It's enough energy they can ruin your day really fast.

And since I prefer a back seat for passengers or the dog I don't have a battery stuck inside a Model T trunk.
My '27 roadster project pile has a pickup bed.
Mike

About Paul's information request:

The original battery hold down method is shown in this thread
https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/1 ... 1311865183

The brackets do not fit properly without the box and lid so you might have to get creative like these.
https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/2 ... 59557.html

I don't like the stock ones, it does not hold them securely enough for me.
So I build my own brackets that are more of like a Model A style or like this with as much clearance as possible
If you use one exactly like the picture you will likely short the battery out, that is why I make them custom.
I don't have a picture of one of mine handy.
Mike

Richard,
You did not state whether or not you had your battery in a box. I only have a board and rubber pad. After, removing the top and disconnecting cables, I suppose you could push it up from underneath and slip a 2x4 scrap above the lower strap and then get a better grip from above.

For the sake of completeness, clearness and clarity here is what I build to hold my batteries in.
I skidded on the frozen snow to walk out there and get a picture.
It is not authentic or original but it is secure.
While I prefer original and authentic, safety and reliability can take over the decision.
And frankly when I made my first one I had forgotten to order some repros and needed something that night.
What I whipped up from junk worked so well I custom make them for everything now.

The band around the outside is below the lip so any sharp edges are away from the cables and terminals.
The block underneath brings it up enough high enough it is above the carrier bars for no binding.
It looks like come spring service it could use some cleanup.
Even not on a roadster changing the battery can be a bit of a challenge since there is not much room to get under it.
I can't wait till spring when I can drive it again.
Mike

I like it, Mike.
If you spread a little Valvoline on top of the terminal clamps they will not corrode & will be maintenance free.

(Edit) OOpps. Darned spell check.

Vaseline.

speedytinc wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 10, 2026 11:08 am

I like it, Mike.
If you spread a little Valvoline on top of the terminal clamps they will not corrode & will be maintenance free.

Or even Vaseline maybe

Flooded cell batteries will last longer if they are secured to prevent shifting around and to reduce vibration. Flooded cell batteries usually require periodic cleaning, and they need to have the electrolyte level checked and replenished from time to time. There are no true maintenance free flooded cell batteries, especially when they are used on vehicles with no voltage regulator.
AGM type batteries also need to be secured, and while they do not need water added, and they do not ordinarily leak or seep acid or emit acidic mist, they will need periodic cleaning if they are mounted under a vehicle where dust and mud can accumulate on them. It's advisable to use a voltage regulator with these type batteries. It's a good idea to check battery cables once in while to be sure they are clean and tight. Overtightening the cable clamps or battery hold-down equipment will lead to trouble. Flooded cell batteries used on Model Ts with no voltage regulator can be expected to need more frequent attention than flooded cell batteries used on vehicles with voltage regulators.

"Or even Vaseline maybe?"

Emu oil, Matey!

Both threads Mike referred to are incomplete in their contribution.
When a battery box lid is used The hold down clamps hold the cover down on the two flats either side of the lid. The battery can be free to float around in the box under the lid. This is especially true with the lower height batteries available today. In T times the wooden case of battery had built in handles/risers on each end. The battery box lid rested on these. So pressure by the hold down clamps on the lid was transferred to the battery as well, holding the battery down and the lid in place. Today there is need for a spacer board under the battery ti lift it to the appropriate height for the clamps to engage on it. It is better to use a wooden block under the clamp to spread the load on the battery top. If you are going to use a lid, that wooden block needs to be of appropriate thickness to take the load of the clamp and the lid.
In the second thread, the clamps have been installed up side down because the battery is too deep in the carrier. A thicker base board is called for.
Or, wooden blocks could be used on top of the battery and the clamps used correct way up. This would help spread the clamping force on the battery top.
Hope this helps,
Allan from down under.