MTFCA Forum

Tinkering in the shop this morning before it got hot. Picked up some tools from Tim Morsher to aid in the process. 1867 pat. Date. After study of said apperatus, I grabed some scrap metal and started playing. Before I knew what happened the morning was gone! Tim didnt send the instruction manuel?

The scrap I used was a tad thicker than what tim sent home with me but not much. He also sent an original MP fender for a pattern. My fenders on the 8in1 are fastened different on the ends but the rest is the same. After some measurements and turning the cranks for a while, I think I may be able to do this. 1st I went through the process of making the L on the edge. Then some clamping and hammer action and final run through wire bead roller the wite was in the edge. Then on to the bead roller for fender bead. I will need a larger diamiter roller but I have the general shape figured out.

I am no metal expert. This is the 1st time I have attemped something like this. A couple photos of the tools.

Great start to becoming a magician Dallas!

You have the tools, you have the will, all you need is the time and a cooperating temperature humidity index!

When I was much, mush younger (Having just bought my first T and owning a toolbox that did not yet have any decent tools) I use to take to hanging out at a guy named Dick Petty's garage in what was to become a "you keep my coffee cup filled from over there so I don't break stride and you can watch and hold the ends of things I do." This was a long, long time ago and Dick had a habit of starting with baskets of parts and producing MTFCI Stynoski winners out of the pile heap.

He had rolling machines like you show, and he didn't make/modify doors to fit tin...he made the wood frames first and then made new tin to exactly match his wood frames. To him it was no harder than tossing out placemats and I was in constant awe as to his skill level and abilities.

One thing I'll mention that may or may not help your developing skills. Dick always let a rolled bead go out to the end of the metal rather than stopping where it made sense. He would then work the hand-tools to go back and flatten the parts that should have been flattened. I'm not a tin knocker, never tried to be good at it, but his reason for doing so has always stayed with me...

Roll to a blind end and all of the stresses of rolling stay at the blind end only to crack or bulge later. Roll off the end of the piece and bump it back to shape, no stresses to come back and bite you in the butt later. I don't know how right he was...for some reason that comment has always stuck...

Good luck

Thanks George. Tips and tricks are what I need. My plan is to figure the width and lenght of metal needed for the fender. My buddy has a shear and a roller to get the arch I need. Then the fun will begin. Mine will be arched like the MP but will need a flat on one end to center the arch above the wheel. Then it will need a flange to bolt to the bed. The flange is the part I am having trouble figuring out how to make.
My dad always told me " where there is a will there is a way if I can keep will out of the way."

Yessss!

It's fun to see the old tool and your work.
I didn't give my bead roller a chance and got rid of it. I'm glad to see your nice results.

Dallas,

I don’t know how MP fenders mount. Nothing to go look at either.

If you need to punt and go for convenience. Fred in NH was pix of how his original depot hack bodied T has back fender mounts. Not MP, but he has furnished nice pix to Depot Hack builders on how it is done.

When it came to fender mounting on my own hack...I didn’t have the tools to make hidden brackets like Fred’s....so I went the ‘25 P/U mounts that Larry Smith can show pix of. They worked, and are out of sight for the most part.

Just some ideas

George, the fenders go on the 8in1 bed on my TT. The MP " Martin Parry" fender Tim sent home with me is the perfect arch and style I want. In the photo you can see that the wheel is not centered in opening on the bed. Since this bed would fit multiple truck chassis, the fenders had to be made different for each brand. " Just guessing there" .
The original wood in the bed had holes for a fender but its long gone. The holes suggest that the fender centered over the wheel. The fender bolted to the bed side and the angle iron fore and aft the opening. There must have been a notch in the top of the fender to clear the flat strap iron for the hinged bed side. Again just guessing. Since the cab is MP and the fender style is almost exact match to the T style beads, I thought I could create something that looked like it belongs there. Since I have no reference to look at and nobody else does, how can I go wrong.

When I was at Hank Lee’s place, I saw a pair of fenders that might work for you. You should ask him. Dan

This shows the look I am going for.

I won’t tell if you don’t tell ...my hack rear fenders were made from 4 original fenders and a MIG kit.

The body flairs were cut away, the outboard edge of the donor set cut likewise... couple of clamps a bunch of dots...a little grinding...a little bumping...some more dots....eventually it looks made that way...lol

Rather than do all the work on the underside, I did a knockdown and sprayed with thinned undercoat...

Like you said...make it look plausible it becomes factual.

fun to watch these come together....

Well Im getting close to getting started. I had a nice talk with Hank Lee last week. He explained some things and sent some great photos of fenders he made. I have a shrinker stretcher coming from Eastwood. Hank spent alot of time with me on the phone, what a wealth of knowledge. Im sure I will be bending his ear again with questions. My next step is to have the metal sheared to the right size at a local shop. Jim Sims sent me the correct size roller he made for the beads. That will save alot of time on the lathe. I have my parents coming in from Minnesota this week and will be here a couple weeks. OCF will have to see it without rear fenders this year.