MTFCA Forum

The weather was perfect for a drive with some speedster friends.

That guy with the hat looks familiar!

On an recent install of an older rebuilt engine, found that the magneto was intermittent, cleaned mag pickup that had some debris, (known good switch) , but still was intermittent at speed showing only 10-15v (T magneto meter). So decided to “flash” the magneto and see if that would fix.

First time for me to do an in car. Chose the Tom Carnegie method using no compass, but the location of two brass magnet screws peened ends. Those you line up by cranking over to be horizontal in line with each other.

Viewing was impossible due seat height and cocking my neck could not see the upper back of the flywheel! But the iPhone camera could, so lowered it in place inside the hogshead inspection opening and took photos.

Lucky this 26-27 hogshead had a casting nub dead center so used that as point to align the bolt ends.

Then the handy golf cart with 36v of good amps to supply current , made an insulated bolt for the (+) in lieu of the tiny spring tip mag contact as thought best to have good electrical path.

8 quick flashes with the (-) cable done by touching the iron hogshead , then ran the engine.

Wonders, the mag pulled strong at fast idle now and at road speed gets 30v on the meter. Successfully done first time and was easy with the brass screw tip to align the magnets too.

More photos from the iPhone. Small size so it fit into the narrow end of the hogshead inspection port , used flash to get photos.

Note the brass screw ends and a location mark of the casting nub as a guide to get the peened ends of two magnet screws aligned for the flash.

Made insulated bolt to use as the tiny delicate pickup seem too little of contact for high amperes of the 6 golf cart batteries used to flash. Did feel too the jolt and shutter (hand brake/clutch lever forward) of the flywheel coil ring & magnets made on flashing, assured that adequate juice flowed on instant quick flashes!

Added door straps to my 24 TT C-Cab. They are referenced in the Parts List but could not find any pictures so manufactured using some leather tools and footman’s loops I purchased several years ago. Looks and works as it should.

after some bench tests, got a new gear, a voltage regulator and some paint and bolted on the generator.

Bryant

Got mine fired up and took it for a short ride.
I gots some cleaning to do now

I took my ‘24 touring on a 100-mile round trip to a club meeting this past Sunday. Since then I wire-wheeled and painted new to me windshield stanchions that have been laying on the bench for four months, which is in preparation for getting started on a top kit, which is still in the box since being delivered over two months ago.

Delivered my ‘19 centerdoor to a movie set this morning on Congress Avenue right in front of the capitol. The picture car coordinator wanted something from the 20s so I told him it was a ‘22. Filming begins tomorrow thru Saturday.

Close enough for government work George

After much gnashing of teeth, got the top completed on my 1912 Commercial Roadster. And pinstriping on the body and wheels by the great David Piatek of Athens, Georgia.

Just trying to remember what goes where. LOL. Mercury Speedster. Some assembly required.

I’ve been working on finishing up the upholstery on my late 27 Sport Touring.
I’ve been dreading it, but it wasn’t really too bad.
Just paying attention to details.

Greg, the top and pinstriping looks great!

I tore into my 1911 engine. So far I have found a crack in the transmission brake drum. I'll pull the engine this weekend and see what else I find.
: ^ (

Keith

Greg, the top and pinstriping looks great!

I tore into my 1911 engine. So far I have found a crack in the transmission brake drum. I'll pull the engine this weekend and see what else I find.
: ^ (

Keith

The 1911 T that I restored came with a Holley H1 carburetor, which Corey Walker refurbished for me. It's a great running carburetor, but it has an elbow that doesn't allow the installation of the usual shutoff elbow that is often installed on later carburetors as a safety feature.

After 3 1/2 years of crawling under the car to turn the fuel on and off at the sediment bowl, I found a small inline brass shutoff valve that I installed yesterday. FINALLY, no more crawling under the car to turn the fuel on and off!

Bought parts to put Ruckstell together and found replacement hood on Facebook Market place.

Brent-
That is a sharp looking 27 Sport Touring! You don't see many of those.

What green is on the car? Do you happen to have the paint code?

Just brought home a TT closed cab. Plans are to mount it on my 25. Needs some hammer work, doors are missing (might not worry about that) needs glass too along with the top. Pretty solid has surface rust where someone stripping the paint off and lots of bondo. Needed something to sit on so this should work till I get my cutdown body sorted out.

The rot in the front bow of my 24 Tourer finally broke through the front wood by the windshield clamp so needed attention... and on removal of the top, it seems the bends were no better...
I was thrilled to find an amazing craftsman just 30 minutes away who could steam bend ash and replace the wood. Bearing in mind that the metalwork fell apart on dismantling and needed to be made back up - this is pretty stunning work in my view..
And then, with a bit of very welcome sunny, warm, spring-like weather, we managed to re-fit the top. It was never going to go back 100% perfectly but I'm prettty pleased with the end result.

Fun day outing giving rides to any willing attendees at a local thrift fest!

I rebuilt my switch, dry fitted the wood to my second front wheel (and it rattles like a maraca, grr), lastly, I picked up a vintage Walker 3 ton floor jack off marketplace for $40. I figure it'll live with the T, and serve well getting it on and off of its tire saving stands.

You know, once I have tires, lol!

With a break in the cold, I went back to work on my electrical problem. I posted in November that I was measuring 3.3 volts at my coil box while the starter was cranking. It was too low to fire the coils. I took inspiration from an article written by Milt Webb where he mentioned measuring voltage drop over each individual electrical component. I did that and retested after correcting each current path issue. Overall, I was able to get up to around 4V at the coils, which is still too low. Then I parked the car for winter.

This week I finally measured voltage drop from a starter mounting screw to the negative battery post. I found 0.7V drop! Not having the engine grounded to the frame was my problem. I had a 19" ground strap that I modified and attached to a starter screw and an unused hole in the frame. These are the results.

Ignition on, starter off 6.3V.
Ignition on, starter cranking 6.1V.

I was extatic with the results. Measuring final voltage was actually difficult. The car started immediately even though the gas valve had been closed the whole time. I had to let the carb run out of gas to get cranking voltage.