Stewart speedometer chains

Discuss all things Model T related.
Forum rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules

Topic author
Original Smith
Posts: 1378
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 10:43 am
First Name: Larry
Last Name: Smith
Location: Lomita, California
MTFCA Number: 121
MTFCA Life Member: YES
MTFCI Number: 16310

Stewart speedometer chains

Post by Original Smith » Fri Jul 26, 2019 9:53 pm

Today, after ten years of operation, I decided to grease my speedometer chain. First of all, it was almost as clean, and well lubricated as when I put it in, but I thought I'd try something new. I fed the chain in one link at a time, hoping it would come out the other end. It didn't, and I had to remove the whole cable. What happens is the chain compresses as you feed it in. So much for trying new things.
I also put in a replated nickel bezel on the speedometer that I got from Russ. What an improvement!

User avatar

Posts: 1373
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:18 pm
First Name: Steve
Last Name: Tomaso
Location: Longbranch, WA
MTFCA Number: 14972
MTFCI Number: 15411
Board Member Since: 2001

Re: Stewart speedometer chains

Post by RajoRacer » Sat Jul 27, 2019 11:24 am

Larry - I've done this on the Centerdoor - after removing the complete housing and laying it on the bench, I removed the chain then I pushed a piece of bailing wire through the vacated housing, then grabbed the first link with the wire and pulled it through - worked pretty slick.

Mark Osterman
Posts: 686
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 10:18 pm
First Name: Mark
Last Name: Osterman
Location: Rochester, NY

Re: Stewart speedometer chains

Post by Mark Osterman » Sat Jul 27, 2019 1:38 pm

LOL ... yes, I recently had my 160 Stewart speedometer head bind and break a chain link. So had to pull out the chain and fish out the broken part. I fixed the broken chain .. thank goodness I had some spare links. At the time I thought it was a faulty link and put the head back on and tested it with the front wheel jacked up .. and it bound up again. So I sent the head to Russ since he had rebuilt it a year ago when one of the pot metal parts became distorted. I installed a spare head from the “Parts Department” in my garage. I don’t really care how fast I’m going but I use the trip odometer as my gas gauge setting it to 000 when I fill up.

Greasing the chains and pulling them through the housing is always a comical activity. I have a special wire with a hook on the end for this and it works well but it’s always a little like wrestling a greasy snake. Russ check out the speedometer head, lubricated it and sent it back the other day. He couldn’t find anything wrong with it. Strange since I could feel it bind a little after turning it by hand about five turns. Fingers crossed.

Posts: 56
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 6:55 pm
First Name: Ed
Last Name: Archer
Location: 1807 East Ave. Hayward, CA 94541
MTFCA Number: 19
MTFCA Life Member: YES
Board Member Since: 2009

Re: Stewart speedometer chains

Post by YellowTRacer » Sun Jul 28, 2019 2:47 am

My guess is that the problem lies in your speedo swivel gears.

Ed aka #4

Posts: 122
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:28 am
First Name: Kenneth
Last Name: Parker
Location: Houston, Texas

Re: Stewart speedometer chains

Post by Drkbp » Mon Jul 29, 2019 2:51 pm

If your swivel and speedometer are functioning properly, be sure and "lay the chain" prior to attaching to the speedometer head or you invite a jam and broken link.
To flip the links all in the same direction:
Insert chain in the housing, attach both clutches to chain and screw cable onto swivel.
Leave upper cable loose so you can check the upper clutch.
Jack up front right wheel (road gear) and rotate wheel "forward" and be sure there is no binding in the chain.
If there is no binding, spin front wheel forward. Check upper clutch and be sure it is spinning freely while front wheel spins forward. Stop wheel, attach cable/upper clutch to speedometer head.Twist speedometer head drive to drop on chain clutch where it stopped and tighten.
The chain links are now all flipped in the same direction and the potential for jam or binding is reduced. :D

I attach a string to the upper clutch link and pull the string through as I remove the chain. Grease it up good and pull back through with the string and attach the upper clutch.

Post Reply Previous topicNext topic