MTFCA Forum

I had used the paper gaskets when I swapped manifolds and a refresh last summer. (I had them) Go figure, the back port let go.
Got some copper rings and the gland rings from Snyder's and swapped them out the other day.
Had a little difficulty getting the center to fit, but thought I got it. Not so, the bottom of the center ports didn't go together and bent the rings. Took it apart today and the copper rings were reusable and I used two old steel rings on the center ports. Everything seemed to draw up evenly this time. Took a cool down break and have to connect exhaust pipe and will let you know.
I think the new steel rings fit so tight in my manifold, that they caught instead of slipping together. This manifold was a NOS and was straight...

Paper gaskets allow straight manifolds to warp, as there are no gland rings to restrain the movement of the manifold when it's hot.

Jerry, I used the steel gland rings with the paper (asbestos) gaskets.

Installed the rings I tried to use the other day, got everything to line up, but the rear port ring must've been crushed too far for reuse.
A friend had a set of the 3-1 copper gaskets and I really didn't want to wait and order more rings, so far no leaking. And yes I used gland rings with them.

The first try, you could see the manifold was tighter at the top and actually hitting the cylinder head. Now it is flush.

Nice early intake!

Turns out my manifold was warped slightly, enough where the rear ring was not lining up right.
Found another one with nice threads and straight !!
Everything went well until the third bolt broke off in the block...
It was not coming out with an EZ-out, drilling out proved to be a little bigger than I wanted, do to the drill shaking, I think.
Any how, Friday evening, trip in the am, and stuck. found a 10mm tap and it fit pretty good, soooo 10 mm it was for the trip.
Nobody around had a 3/8-24 Heli-coil at 7pm Friday. And nobody noticed the 15mm head amongst the 5/8" ones !!
Got a kit on E-Bay and rethreaded it yesterday, insert went in nice and all is well. New bolts, chased the other threads and no more "puff puff"

Next time you have a broken off bolt consider the “weld out “ method. Find a old block and practice the technique. You will be glad to know how next time you need it. Quick and reliably easy!!

Kim Dobbins taught me how to straighten a warped manifold with a rosebud and the weight of a box end wrench to turn it. Absolutely no pressure from me is required, as it will break the manifold. I've done two this way, and it works. Those 3-1 gaskets will ruin a good manifold, however if it is already warped, you don't have a choice.

Larry, this one would be a great candidate...
Threads are nearly perfect, I actually thought it had not been installed before. I may give it a try sometime.

Les, I have done that before, even in aluminum modern heads with broken exhaust manifold bolts. Unfortunately my welder is out of commission for the time being.
My car has bolts instead of studs, I think this one bottomed out before it snapped and it was "in there like swimwear". I musta weakened the bolt trying to get the old one to seal. I had them tighter than it was when it snapped.

I looked at a dozen old manifolds and this may be the last one I have that's good.

Guys, I wish I could post photos from my phone, but I can no longer log in on it. I have a way to satisfactorily mount a warped manifold so that it does fit and stays fitted without leaking.

I lay a straight edge along the two centre ports. This will tell you how much the front and rear ports are warped down.

Then I cut SIX gland rings from solid exhaust pipe, no splits like the rings from parts dealers.

I place a pair of these rings on top of one another, off-setting the two by the amount of warpage at the port, and then Oxy weld them together on the inside. This gives me an off-set gland ring.

Repeat the above for the other port.

These rings can then be installed in the manifold and checked for alignment. Simply rotate the end off-set ones until they line up. By using exhaust pie for the glands, there is enough material to file/grind a taper on the block side of the rings, to aid in fitting.

I have used paper gaskets, as the material is isolated from gases by the gland ring. The copper rings may be better. I hold the gland rings and gaskets in place with a liberal smear of manifold sealer, apply the same sealer when mating the manifold to the block, and fit in the usual way.
While a new manifold may be easier to fit, this method allows me to use much better looking original manifolds.

May this save some otherwise doomed originals.
Allan from down under.