MTFCA Forum

Today I tried to install and adjust my New Day timer. First off I'd like to know if what I've done looks right, then I have a little problem to discuss and a possible solution if you agree.

Following info I found on this forum, I did the following:
1.Identified Cyl # 1
2.Turned the crank until the crank pin was in the 3:30 / 9:30 Position - approx 15° past TDC
3.rotated the timer until coil # 1 began to buzz then backed it off just enough to stop it. Photo A shows the position of the timer at this point. Photo B shows the position of the brush in this position.
4.Bent the timer rod so that the fully retarded position of the lever corresponded with the timer position in step 3. Advancing the lever 4-5 clicks will start it buzzing again.
-----Does the timer appear to be in the proper position? I ask because if I advance the spark lever and rotate the timer the ear where the lever attaches to the timer touches the edge of the fan belt (my little problem.) I've concluded that either the timer in incorrectly positioned OR the fan belt needs to be shortened which will move the fan and the belt slightly to the car's left. The current belt measures 26 3/4 and experimenting with a tape measure makes me think that a 25 7/8 belt or shorter would give me the clearance I need. What do you think?

Hello Tim, hope the ankle is healing well. I went out and looked at the TT and the RPU both New Day timers are straight up as yours fully retarded. Full advance stop just short of the fan belt. Real close but not touching. Use a piece of string to measure fan belt.

Tim,

I'm guessing since I cannot see the fan assembly and complete adjustment bracket, it looks like you have the wrong fan adjustment bracket.

It might be that the belt is too long. A shorter belt would put the arm and top pulley farther away from the timer.
Norm

Yes, the brush and timer cover appear to be in the proper position. I agree that a shorter belt would be OK. As long as the fan doesn't hit the crank ratchet, it could stand to be considerably lower.

You should avoid this.

This is an issue caused by incorrect belt length, the timer rod or using the wrong fan adjustment bracket. Usually one of the three I have found on my T’s anyway. It’s a trial and error fit up especially when installing a engine in the car.

I agree that there is a lot of trial and error in getting everything to fit nice but first I think your initial timing is too far retarded and you may find it hard to start this car. I agree with wanting to be absolutely sure that the engine when hand cranked or even with starter aid should have the initial timing set at 15 degrees AFTER TDC but a setting of 9:00-3:00 on the crank shaft pin is TDC on the crank shaft position for each cylinder in turn as you crank the motor but 9:30-3:30 is 30 degrees past TDC in crank shaft degrees and further rotating the timer housing to NOT be buzzing when the crank is at 30 degree retard position will result in even more retard. You have to remember that crank shaft degrees is what you are setting the timing to. Also you need to make sure that all of the "SLOP" or "SLACK" in the timer linkage is accounted for when positioning the timer linkage and timer for a start of the motor. Moving the lever around you may find you will get different timer position when you retard the lever to a psoition or advance the lever to the same position. What I recommned is to first pull the timer lever ahead at least half way then slowly pull the lever back to the full retard position. This will position your timer in the proper position to set timing so as to be near TDC as close as possible that is still safe to hand crank. I set my cars up by setting the lever to full retard slowly as I mentioned. I then turn on ignition and pull the hand crank forward VERY VERY slowly until the coil just starts to buzz. I then look at the pin position. So long as the pin is very slightly lower on the right side than horizontal I know that the timing is past TDC and 3:15 O'clock is where it want it to be. I then pull it ahead without changing anything on the timer lever and make sure all 4 cylinder fire at that same 3:15 OK position. It is worth the extra time to get the timing right on and also worth the extra time to get your carb float lever set perfect. I have that on my most recent car and the thing almost always gives me a free start by just turning on the coil box power.

A tip also on NEW DAY timers. Mount ALL of the wiring behind the NEW DAY 4 tabs. Use binder head brass machine screws and put the timer wire flag terminals, lockwashers and wire dressing all on the backside. This helps keep the wiring out of the fan belt. Also if this is a driver then the new rubber fan belts are a full 1/8 inch narrower but will center in the pulleys if they have the proper crown in the center and the bracket or its mounting bolt is not bent up or down. Make sure the belt runs in the center of your motor and fan pulley and with wires routed behind the front the new day timer all parts have enough room. I wonder where on the timer rod did you bend it since on early cars it is very important that the bend to advance or retard the timing should occur only in the ARC portion above the timer at the timer end. The arc of the bend should stay in the same plane. Bending it someplace else results in more and more bending. Increase the arc to retard the spark and reduce the arc to advance it but don't bend it someplace else if its a new rod.

Good luck.

360 ÷ 12 = 30, so 30° past TDC would occur at 4 /10 on the "clock" - - 3:30 / 9:30 would be 15° BTDC by my estimation. I'm a newbie at this so I may be missing something. As I mentioned earlier, I used methods I found on this site, primarily the "Dauntless geezer's". I'm a little excited that I may soon see my T come alive. I've tried to do everything right but I know more surprises await.

Tim..
Its hard to tell in pic "A" but to me it looks like your timer rod will be above your radiator inlet pipe when you install the radiator. It.should be UNDER the pipe, and positioned so it also does not rub on the lower rubber hose either.
The other Tim

Tim - I'll find out tomorrow So far this project has gone from discovery to discovery (problem to problem.) If I ever do something like this again I'll be better prepared.

Update - I just hobbled out to the shop & put the sleeve and tube on the outlet elbow. The control rod passes under the tube and appears to clear throughout it's range - we'll see what it looks like with the radiator installed. Fingers crossed

The other, other Tim

On an initial set up with a new timer, I park the timer pull at 5 o'clock on our RHD cars. For your up side down timers that would be 11 0'clock. The adjustment to the linkage rod is then made with the lever set against the stop on the quadrant. This works for all types of timers other than one of the new Andersons. I can't remember if thit needed to be closer to 6 o'clock or 4 o'clock.

Allan from down under.