MTFCA Forum

I have a feeling I might get scolded for this...but here goes anyway....

I'm looking at the metal fuel line that goes from my new gas tank to my new (rebuilt) carb and I'm thinking that it might be prudent to cut a short section out of that fuel line somewhat near the tank, flare the ends and place a section of rubber fuel line there.

Yes, I know that's not the way Henry did it...understood. But in every old car I've ever had, there's been a section of rubber line that serves to isolate some of the engine movement and vibration from the gas tank and that might be a good thing for a Model T as well. I'm not building a restored show car so that factor isn't a concern for me.

What got me thinking about this, in part, is that both of the vintage Model T tanks in my possession, have obvious repairs at the outlet bung...repairs almost certainly to fix cracks caused by years of movement and vibration in the all metal fuel line. It seems like the T would be even more susceptible to this than other old cars due to the big bulbous weight (sediment bulb) hanging down below the tank.

Don,

If you don't tell anyone, I'll tell you that mine has some rubber inline for the reasons you describe. My line is also not bent the same as Henry's either.

My advice though is to use Gates "Barricade" hose to ward off what this lousy ethanol gas does to regular fuel line. I get mine at Napa, part# H311 for 1/4", Part# H312 for 5/16".

Mum's the word Chad....just between you and me.

As a young man I repaired many, many wrecked Fords in the early to mid 70's. They all had the last 3 inches of fuel line that was rubber clamped on each end. There were thousands and thousands of burned Fords nation wide because of these hoses. Almost every owner, even if they babied their cars, would be unaware of the hose's deterioration. You could walk thru parking lots and smell gasoline fumes coming from Fords with these hoses leaking. I don't recommend using rubber hose at all . My 2 cents worth.

Beginning with Plymouth's "Floating Power" in 1929 (I think) automobile engines were no longer bolted rigid within the frame. Through the 1930s practically all makers followed suit. This made a flexible connection to the fuel supply a necessity, hence the ubiquity of the hose application you have observed.

Not so the Model T, where gas tank and engine are both firmly attached to the frame (we hope !) and the successful application of a rigid fuel line. This is not to say that the noticeable (and beloved) vibrations of an operating Model T cannot lead to fuel line failures. Oddly enough, as no tubing flares were used in the original design, the felt packing at either end of the fuel line works very well to maintain fuel line integrity. Counter-intuitively, flared connections and compression fittings do not fare well under the incessant fidgeting of a running T. It would seem this is yet another case where the original design is simplest and yet delivers an adequate result. This is not to say that the original system is "best" - but it's likely any combination of hoses, tubing, fittings, filters etc. , etc. will work fine for a while, then fail at some point, so do what pleases you. It's your car to enjoy. We often tend to fix our Ts so "good" they cause us problems.

It sounds like a good idea. I have never tried it or found the need but encourage others to do what seems right for them. Henry might have tried it if they had better hoses back in the day.
Rich

Depending on the route the fuel line travels, it can get close to both the starter switch and the exhaust pipe. For that reason I would only use a flexible joint at the tank end, and I would keep it as short as possible so it cannot move much. There is no need for the pipe to be flared if those spring type flat clamps are used.
That said, all of my cars have the standard hard line with neoprene rubber packing at the pack nuts.

Allan from down under.

I have done this on my Speedster. With the tank that far back I figure it is good insurance to have a little extra flex in the line. However, I also make sure I check it before the start of every season, or I just replace it with a fresh hose. It is only 3-4 inches long, so almost no cost involved.

Rich B

I agree with you wholeheartedly. I have seen 3 cracked lines. All 3 were cracked at the cheap bead ferrul that someone glommed into a non-compression, original fitting. With no designed limit feature on that hybrid fitting, multiple tightenings caused the ferrule to compress to the point of cracking and in one case, shearing the line off.

I don't know why anyone would go to school to be an engineer when it is so easy to be one with just a small investment in wrenches, and access to the internet.

Good advice Scott!!

I have been using various methods for years on speedsters and the likes there of. The key is “quality” materials! A USCG approved flexible fuel line or a green stripe fuel injected rated line will satisfy the requirements with “quality” clamps. I have not had any leaks or failures.

Just my experiences,

Hank

I admit it, I put a 4" hose at the carb when I installed the Stromberg. It had no fitting and I found a hose style fitting in my stock, so...

I am running the modern rubber type fuel line all the way from my tank to carb. Two weeks ago my electric fuel pump gave out. I did not have time to source a 6 volt pump so I mounted my tank in the bed of the huckster. With the Chevrolet over head the carb is on the drivers side so the line runs along the drivers side (US). I could have put the tank lower then how I mounted it but wanted to be able to drain if needed.

Do what you wish. A Model T doesn't need a rubber line anywhere. I have over 55,000 miles on my '13 touring, not that that makes any difference, and it still has the same gas line that I put on it in 1962.