Radius on big end bearings
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Topic author - Posts: 481
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:52 pm
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Guitar
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring, 1924 Tourer
- Location: Ulladulla
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Radius on big end bearings
I’m machining new big end bearings for my 26 Tourer. What radius should I put on these? I found a mention of 1/16” as the fillet radius on the conrod journals on the crankshaft in a post on the old forum so I was thinking I should make it slightly bigger than that.
The pic below is a rod I used to test my setup.
The pic below is a rod I used to test my setup.
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- First Name: Bob
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Re: Radius on big end bearings
The shaft should have a radius of 1/16 at the rod pins so I cut just a tad over a 1/16. Very nice looking pour, please show us your set up. Also the fixture for boring the rods. Bob 903 824 1949
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Re: Radius on big end bearings
Test rod?!?!? Looks more like a lightened racing rod to me!!
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Re: Radius on big end bearings
A 1/16” radius certainly will not work with a correctly ground crank!
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Topic author - Posts: 481
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:52 pm
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Re: Radius on big end bearings
Bob, thanks, I'll go with that.
You've got a nice setup. It's interesting seeing how you've held the big end. That was the part I wasn't sure which way to go.
Here is what I came up with. The base and end plate is scrap 6061 T6, and the pin is mild steel. I've got our another bearing to pour this week, I'll take photos of my mold setup then.
You've got a nice setup. It's interesting seeing how you've held the big end. That was the part I wasn't sure which way to go.
Here is what I came up with. The base and end plate is scrap 6061 T6, and the pin is mild steel. I've got our another bearing to pour this week, I'll take photos of my mold setup then.
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Re: Radius on big end bearings
The rod pictured has no babbitt it was used for setup. The fixture clamps the rod using pins and the large bolts on either side of aviation socket head bolts, cut flat on the inside of the head to go into the rod. The long, splicing nuts are used with a gauge block to check the straight and twist of the rod.
The bolts in the fixture push on pins that clamp against the socket bolts. The pins have a flat on one side and the small socket bolts keep the pins oriented.-
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- First Name: Bill
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Re: Radius on big end bearings
This Is the rod boring setup that I have developed over the years.
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Re: Radius on big end bearings
C to C, is 7 inches.
Width is 1.500.
The Radius is exactly 1/8th.
First rod, Gold, is our Centrifugally poured Rods
Herm.
Width is 1.500.
The Radius is exactly 1/8th.
First rod, Gold, is our Centrifugally poured Rods
Herm.
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Topic author - Posts: 481
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:52 pm
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Re: Radius on big end bearings
Bill, that is a great looking setup. The way you've done the big end adjustments must cut down on setup time a lot.
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Topic author - Posts: 481
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:52 pm
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Re: Radius on big end bearings
Herm, thank you, that is good information.
Is the gold rod photo in your post as poured? Do you have a side-on photo? It's hard to compare it with the static-pour rod being from two different angles.
I can see you had leakage with the static-pour rod. I used a combination of aluminium welding wire and Eastwood heat compound to eliminate that. Do you think the colour variation would correspond with different grain structure? I noticed when I was machining one of my rods there seemed to be a few hard spots in the babbitt.
I'm envious of your centrifugal casting setup, the end result looks great.
Is the gold rod photo in your post as poured? Do you have a side-on photo? It's hard to compare it with the static-pour rod being from two different angles.
I can see you had leakage with the static-pour rod. I used a combination of aluminium welding wire and Eastwood heat compound to eliminate that. Do you think the colour variation would correspond with different grain structure? I noticed when I was machining one of my rods there seemed to be a few hard spots in the babbitt.
I'm envious of your centrifugal casting setup, the end result looks great.
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Re: Radius on big end bearings
On the leakage John, That was the first time we static poured, about 7 years ago, on Model T rods, and as the pour came out, we don't put up with leakage. So, I set up a jig to machine the rod sides. So the uneven machined sides, from previous rebuilding machine work, was gone.John E. Guitar wrote: ↑Wed Aug 07, 2019 10:07 pmHerm, thank you, that is good information.
Is the gold rod photo in your post as poured? Do you have a side-on photo? It's hard to compare it with the static-pour rod being from two different angles.
I can see you had leakage with the static-pour rod. I used a combination of aluminium welding wire and Eastwood heat compound to eliminate that. Do you think the colour variation would correspond with different grain structure? I noticed when I was machining one of my rods there seemed to be a few hard spots in the babbitt.
I'm envious of your centrifugal casting setup, the end result looks great.
I will show you the jig pictures, and machined rods, before pouring, it is a factory, Clawson & Bals.
The Gold rod is the one we always took to swap meets.
The dark rod is a clawson & Bals, spun poured Rod
Herm.
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- Posts: 144
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- Posts: 144
- Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2019 3:12 pm
- First Name: Herman
- Last Name: Kohnke
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- Posts: 144
- Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2019 3:12 pm
- First Name: Herman
- Last Name: Kohnke
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 Roadster, 1922 Coupe
- Location: Clare, Iowa
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- Posts: 144
- Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2019 3:12 pm
- First Name: Herman
- Last Name: Kohnke
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 Roadster, 1922 Coupe
- Location: Clare, Iowa
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- Posts: 144
- Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2019 3:12 pm
- First Name: Herman
- Last Name: Kohnke
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 Roadster, 1922 Coupe
- Location: Clare, Iowa
Re: Radius on big end bearings
Pictures
The car is a 1908 Aplex, 2 Cycle, quite a Machine.
The car is a 1908 Aplex, 2 Cycle, quite a Machine.