MTFCA Forum

I was working up a sweat with lots of crank pulling yesterday. I got about a half dozen false starts. The engine would run a second or two and die. So this morning I removed the NH to check it out. I found the float setting was ½". I have no idea why I would have done such a thing, but I reset it to ¼", put the carb back on the car, and started it up. When I installed the crank pulley I thought it was OK, but the clatter says I need a better one.

https://youtu.be/vv2aLy4Qb_s

For the interim it's easy and effective to make a shim for the pulley out of a strip of a coke or beer can... I did this on a tour and it has worked great for years for me!

I once used a shim. It was too thick, and later when I had to remove the pulley it was the job from Hell.

Use a thinner shim, or only go 1/2 way around!

When I started my T for the first time after a rebuild it acted like it was seizing after a second or two. The engine started but then stopped abruptly. After a few restarts it would run longer and longer till it stayed running. I watched the oil and the water temperature closely. It eventually “ran in” and now runs fine. I was sure it was seizing but according to the guys on this site it is common after rebuilding. I thought sure I had ruined my engine but that was five years ago and still running great.

Won't be long now, before you're in the breeze !!

I used a brass shim hammered to thickness needed. Removed it this winter and installed same shim, no problem.

It is good to hear that you didn't have to tow it, they should crank after a rebuild.

Congratulations! What's up with the jumper cables?

A good way to fix a loose pulley is to coat the inside with a liberal coat of tin solder (50/50). Tap it into place, any high spots in the tinning will self cut to size. No shimming, and will last for years.