New noise in Henrietta.
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Topic author - Posts: 5201
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- First Name: Allan
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New noise in Henrietta.
I am getting Henrietta ready for our National Tour in Maryborough, Queensland in early October and have discovered some concerning noises. There is a knock when the motor is free wheeling. It goes away when under load, either on acceleration or on trailing throttle. All of a sudden it has become much louder, and there is considerable tappet noise too. Before I tear into it, I thought I'd better consult with the gurus here.
The engine is as found, other than having a replacement second hand con rod fitted a few months ago. This was done in the car, without pulling the head. The car still runs and performs as it had before the new louder noises, so I am scratching my head a bit here.
Allan from down under.
The engine is as found, other than having a replacement second hand con rod fitted a few months ago. This was done in the car, without pulling the head. The car still runs and performs as it had before the new louder noises, so I am scratching my head a bit here.
Allan from down under.
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Re: New noise in Henrietta.
I had an issue a couple of years ago. The engine would knock and bang loudly under load. I pulled the engine and we rebuilt it. My noise was improperly shimmed main bearing caps. We just took shim material out.... Good luck and don't drive it too much until you fix it.
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Re: New noise in Henrietta.
Your description sounds like a connecting rod knock. Pull the inspection cover off and check the looseness of the large ends of the rods on the crankshaft. Remove the bearing cap and measure the crankshaft journel in several places front to back and side to side, up and down. You should have very little difference in the measurement, not more than 2 thousandths inch. Look at the babbit. It should be without cracks in the rod and in the cap. If babbit is bad, you will need to re-pour or replace the rods. If babbit is good, continue with instructions. If you can find plastigauge put a strip between the cap and the crankshaft and replace the cap with the same number of shims as when you removed it. You should have 2 thousands of an inch. or less. I realize you probably use metric measurements where you are, so someone familiar with the conversion might need to help you with this measurement. Remove an equal number of shims from each side until you get 1.5 thousandths inch. If all the shims have been removed and it is still loose, you have a choice. Re babbit the rods with shims, or file the caps down to produce the clearance. If you file the caps, you have forever removed the metal, and might make them unusable in the future.
Do this with all 4 rods. If you have Prussian blue you can smear some on the bearings and tighten them down turn the crankshaft around one revolution and remove. The blue pigment should be evenly spread if the bearing is correctly fitted. If you find dark blue areas which are not wiped, you might need to scrape the high areas (those which have been wiped) Just scrape off a little babbit and then re fit again until you get a surface which is wiped most of the way around. You might need to adjust the number of shims again after you do this. If you have a 3 dip inspection plate, the 4th rod will be harder to fit than the others and you might want to put a rag behind it just to keep from dropping anything in the sump, but remember to remove the rag before you turn the crankshaft or it could be pulled in and hard to impossible to recover with the engine in the car.
Norm
Do this with all 4 rods. If you have Prussian blue you can smear some on the bearings and tighten them down turn the crankshaft around one revolution and remove. The blue pigment should be evenly spread if the bearing is correctly fitted. If you find dark blue areas which are not wiped, you might need to scrape the high areas (those which have been wiped) Just scrape off a little babbit and then re fit again until you get a surface which is wiped most of the way around. You might need to adjust the number of shims again after you do this. If you have a 3 dip inspection plate, the 4th rod will be harder to fit than the others and you might want to put a rag behind it just to keep from dropping anything in the sump, but remember to remove the rag before you turn the crankshaft or it could be pulled in and hard to impossible to recover with the engine in the car.
Norm
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Re: New noise in Henrietta.
Last year I had that same thing when going along with no load on engine. Not noticable sitting still. I had taken up two rods a few weeks earlier. Checked them again and the threads had pulled on number 2 rod and it was loose again. Replaced the studs and is fine now. Just possible?
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Topic author - Posts: 5201
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Re: New noise in Henrietta.
Well, the No 1 rod I replaced with a used one may have been the knock. When I removed the cap it was clear that it was only making 60% contact, in the middle of the bearing. I hand scraped the high spot and Plastiguaged the results. At just .002" all that was needed was a clean-up of the cap on a surface plate and 120 grit emery paper. While I had the plate off, I checked the rest. Nos 2 and 4 just required the same clean-up on the emery to restore a .0015" clearance. No 3 took a bit more, as it guaged at .003" The crankshaft is in excellent condition. So I think we are ready to go.
The sudden increase in noise levels may have had something to do with my new set of hearing aids!
Allan from down under.
The sudden increase in noise levels may have had something to do with my new set of hearing aids!
Allan from down under.
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Re: New noise in Henrietta.
Well done Al
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Re: New noise in Henrietta.
Good on You Allan!
Hank
Hank
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Re: New noise in Henrietta.
Allan
I have always maintained that my cars run quieter and quieter as my industry-induced Tinnitus slowly gets worse.
I have always maintained that my cars run quieter and quieter as my industry-induced Tinnitus slowly gets worse.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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Topic author - Posts: 5201
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
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- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: New noise in Henrietta.
Scott, these new fangled, super sensitive, miniature aids are amazing. I fitted lined brake shoes a few weeks back, and with my new aids, I could hear an intermittent scraping from the right rear wheel, so I pulled it off to check it today. Nothing amiss. Those darn aids could pick up the scraping that used to happen before I fixed it!
I just hope my wife doesn't get the same type of aids some time. I'd hate to to have her hear some things I might have said in the past.
Allan from down under.
I just hope my wife doesn't get the same type of aids some time. I'd hate to to have her hear some things I might have said in the past.
Allan from down under.
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Re: New noise in Henrietta.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured