MTFCA Forum

I have been a fan of the new-fangled rear axle seals and have them on most of my T's. The Touring requires an axle shim on both sides to give proper clearances. The shims seem to crawl up into the seal when installing the rear wheel and chew the rubber seal a bit. This time I made a shield out of .030 steel hoping it will stop the shim from entering the seal. There is ample room between the hub and seal so the shield can free float. The ID of the shield is a sliding fit with each axle shaft. Hopefully my new seals will last a very long time. The old ones still worked pretty well even after getting roughed up.
Rich

That washer looks like a good way to cut the axle as it is floating and any rotation of the hub can turn it. I would maybe trimming some off the shim first or put the shim into the hub first then install the wheel. That way it will works to the outside as you put it on. If the shim is moving in use, then there are other issues, like not getting tight on the taper, loose hub worn axle taper.

Use the inner modern seals problem solved but if the shims are moving the wheel still loose IMO

As I said the shims "seem to crawl up into the seal when installing the rear wheel". Not moving in use. I have found no good way to keep the shim from sliding along the axle with the hub AT INSTALLATION. The spacer should turn with the axle and hub. Also it is softer than the axle shaft. If problems develop with this I will post it here first.
Thanks for the concerns.
Rich

Sorry, I don’t understand the need for this shim. What am I missing here? Agree with others, it looks like a axle cutting
device to me and similar to what the steel thrust washers in the diff have been known to do.
Alan

Rich E., what Mark G. said. Put the shim in the hub first, then the shim will tend to push out instead of in. JMHO Dave

I thinking the same as Alan mentioned Rich. I have the same seals on my rear and I didn't use any shims like that

If you feel you must have a “slinger”, could you make it with a smaller ID and form a small “cone” inside to press fit it so it won’t move.

I have the same concerns of cutting the axle over time if floating around.

OK.
Thanks
Rich

What keeps you from tack welding the shield to the seal to eliminate both wear problems ?

A tiny tack in a 2-3 places will hold it nicely.

My experience in repairs is that that type of seal will soon be damaged by axle flexing...even with a good Hyatt bearing and new sleeve. Any number of miles on the car after installation and I've found that the seal is shot. If you are getting better service from them, that's good.

The housing is aluminum and Rich's shield is steel...I don't think that is a tack-able item.

I'm still stuffing three of the thick felt seals that Langs sells in my housings. They work well, but are a bitch to put in. I like to break in the center hole for them before installation.

Rich looks like a great idea and thanks for sharing. I have had the same problem. This is what I have done with some success.

That looks like a great fix John. The idea of putting the shim in the hub rather than on the axle shaft sounds like a good fix too. I will inspect the assembly after some miles to see if the shield is causing any wear.
Thanks for the comments.
Rich

Locktite between the axle and the shim worked for me. Don