MTFCA Forum

Is this normal? Thanks!
Matt

No...
Maybe you will need a little heat to get it off, but it should slide off.
You might be looking for another spindle

Clean up the spindle with diesel or some type of degreaser then you may have to heat up the bearing that’s stuck on the spindle. It should come off. Use a drift or something to tap it off. The spindle may still be good hopefully. Then you will know for sure if the spindle is still good.
Good luck!

I would remove the kingpin and soak the spindle in some quality solvent for a week. Some solvents can cost $40 - $50 a gallon, expensive but it works good and they are water soluble.

Sometimes a very sharp cold chisel with a heavy strike in two locations a 180 degrees out causes a crack and they just fall off. Wear safety glasses and gloves!

Hank

That's common on the early, full circle spindle bodies - a little cleaning, soaking then heat will get it off. Notice that it doesn't have the later double sides flats to assist in removing a stubborn race, which is a good thing !

Thanks for everyone’s input!

This is what I did:
Heat source- angle grinder. Large monkey wrench was then able to move it... But that didn’t help in getting it off. But I found the flat spots that Steve mentioned. The other spindle did not have flat sides, so it must be an earlier one. I made a notch with the angle grinder. I am using this axle for rollers wheels, not a running car. The funny part was I found that my second old wheel had ball bearings. So I put one bearing race back on. I put light oil on it dirt cleaned off and it slid right on. So dirt must have caused it to bind up.

Thanks for everyone’s help.

Matt

Matt

I am guessing that you don't realize that people pay good money for those things and that they cannot be purchased new.

Scott is right, they're not easy to come by. I just finished grinding and polishing a set to give to Larry Smith tomorrow. Try to save those bearing parts when you can.

Scott, Oops! Thanks for the FYI! This is why I asked first! I didn’t read Steve’s post until I was done and when others mentioned heat I took it to mean that the part would not be reused. In my understanding heat would change the metallurgy properties.

James, how much does a set like that cost?

Matt

Matt... I get $275 for a set when I provide the cores. I start with NOS cups and cones and give them a mild grind to remove the imperfections, followed by polishing. New balls are provided as well. I'm pretty much out and will be scouring every bin to find some useable cores at Hershey!

James_Lyons-WV wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 05, 2019 10:51 pm

Matt... I get $275 for a set when I provide the cores.

This is one of those days I wish I could go back in bed before I got up this morning! Not to mention I ruined the two inner races, I’m feeling like I’m coming down with a cold.

I hope this will help someone. That is as education of what NOT to do. But unfortunately they may read the statement after they follow my procedure up above!

Matt

Matt... I wouldn't be too hard on yourself. You're not the first person to do something like that, and you certainly wont be the last. I've seen guys do far worse!

Has anybody had any luck getting those inner races off with one of these?

Rodger, not sure that would help, nothing really to grab on to and usually heat will do the trick.

Matt, don’t feel so bad, the second set of pics shows the bearing surface of the race was pretty badly pitted...I wouldn’t use it.