MTFCA Forum

So one inch is basically to the shoulder? Is that right? Yes I’m a little nervous.

This is an operation that cannot be undone. You may guess as to my feelings as to the wisdom of irrevocably altering an original part. Though you have almost certainly commited funds to this product, I think there are equivalent parts which do not require butchering the axle, if you looked.

Can't advise where to cut...sorry. Someone else will gleefully advise you soon, I'm sure.

I used an angle grinder 4.5 cutting disk and then smoothed up with grinding disc.
I marked a line around just inboard of the lock hole foe the sleeve
Lastly took my dremel with a sanding disc smooth the edge so i didnt cut a seal witch was an O ring
Depends i think what safety hub you buy there
Email me i send pics or help more
I was nervouse my 1st set but did my second set like nothing

A little background information
The large bearing conversions were offered and used in the T era.
The “other options” that are referred to have a history of problems ranging from REALLY REALLY difficult to disassemble to wheel loss while driving due to axle failures.
IF you have good Hyatt bearings then they are a great choice. Unfortunately they are becoming increasingly difficult to find.

Well it’s a done deal, they are cut. As far as not cutting up original parts, one half is a new ruxtel. I have restored at least ten model t’s to as built condition and driven them a lot. But this one I have been picking up parts for years to build like I want it. It’s going to be a great driver. A 1923 touring built like I want it.

We have been using the "modern version" of safety hubs for going on at least 20 years with no issues. We have 5 cars with them installed and have done the mods in about another 30 for others with no failures either. I think a lot of failures that some speak of are incorrect procedures on installing. The big problem is over tightening the the retaining bolt where the outer grease cup was. By doing this, the modern bearing retainer can not expand and contract with heat, causing issues. You have to set it like a set screw then back off about a 3/4 of a turn and use the jam nut. I had an original set "in the era" with the large bearing, it broke it's flange destroying the axle. I like these and will continue using them as I drive at 65-70 MPH with no bunny hopping when braking with accessory brakes.

To each their own.

All the Best,

Hank in Tin-A-See

Henry are the safety hubs you're using your own design and manufacture? Or are they available from vendors? Thanks, Joe

I use a cutoff wheel. On an assembled axle, I slide a piece of tubing over the axle to avoid nicking the axle.

Andy

I have always used Dans Hubs, they are made right.

I use two set screws to keep the hub straight with the axle, and I tighten them, and use a lock nut. You do not want the hubs sliding, in, and out, as cornering, and ruts will do.

All that I have put in, no problems.

Herm.

Those two piece brake shoes, to keep them working straight, and not coming off, i put put washers on the out side of the New Old Stock Brake Cams.

I also used NOS Hubs, in the New wheels.

Thanks,

Herm

When cutting the tub off straight, I have always used a hack saw.

Scribe your cutting line clear around the tube. Now, take the hack saw, and cut on your line, until the saw teeth just drop through to the inside of the inner, tube. Then move your saw forward, and do it again. You are only cutting about a inch, or less at a time.

When done with sawing, it should be straight, and a clean cut. Just a little file on any sharp edges.

Do NOT just cut the pipe off at the inner larger diameter. It has to brace, itself against what is the right a mount left, so all the pressure is not against the set bolts, when the force is inward, on the axles.

Some good ideas there Herm, what are you using for a plug in the drain? And are you taking width off the shoe?

Don,

Herm hit every point dead on! Thanks for all the details Herm.

Hank

Herm’s approach is good and resembles the era design which I started using 40 years ago.
I have now reduced the ball bearing size a bit to make it easier to fit into the small drum brake. I hold it onto the inside adapter with a snap ring. Still LOTS of load capacity!!
I have a couple of other “deviations” but I’m not looking for a fight so I will not share them

The best way is the way Ford intended!

Don ellis wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 25, 2019 7:28 am

Some good ideas there Herm, what are you using for a plug in the drain? And are you taking width off the shoe?

I milled of the cast iron, only, off both sides of the shoe, up to the lining. These shoes are crude, I won't be using them again.

The drain plug is large zerk size. The plug was a Allen wrench, flat plug.

Herm.