MTFCA Forum

I am in the process of replacing the bands in my '13 Touring. A friend of mine sent me the photograph below showing a gap in the bands. The picture came from the website of Kohnke Re-babbiting. Clearly Mr. Kohnke is a Model T expert, which gives him great credibility. What is the opinion of other experts? Good? Bad? Not necessary?
Regards.
Mike Sommers

You will very likely have the very best results by following the instructions that come with the new linings you purchase.

There are alot of "experts" on the web and out in the real world.But I have found if i do things sorda along the lines of what Ford Engineers did back when they built the Model T or any of my other Ford products,things seem to go ok.
They built alot more model T's than Any company outside of Ford.
Not saying that idea won't work.It sorda makes sense it would let oil catch down at the bottom and not burn things up as bad.But I think Ford woulda done it if it worked on the long term.

If I recall correctly this was a suggestion for installation of Kevlar lining with an attendant rationale which seemed reasonable. Retro fitted “improved” items often require a different approach than the originals.

The recommended way, where you first mount the rivets at the upper end and have a bulge at the bottom that you straighten out once the rivets are in place, will ensure that the band sits tight to the band. I can fear you dont get that with the shown method.
I also takes my bands through a pair of rollers to make sure the band is truely circular and not somewhat oval.

(Wonder when Kohnke comes after me..... )

Lads,
Thanks for the feedback. The statements about original Ford bands ring hollow when you consider the difference between cotton and Kevlar bands. I guess what I am asking is, if members feel that having that separation of band material would allow for better oil perfusion, and hence, protection from drum damage issues.
Mike

Perhaps there is merrit with regards to kevlar, but not for cotton lining.

Watch this, from 2013, and learn how to do it right.

viewtopic.php?t=1019

That's the way I try to do it since I followed the thread in 2013.

Andre
Belgium

Andre,
I am not sure of what you are saying. The thread you are referencing is probably from where my friend saw the gap in the bands. I am assuming that you feel this is a good way to do Kevlar bands.
Mike

My take, I understand the thought process behind the gap but I would do it different. I would install them the normal way, then after installed trim out a section and seal the ends. IF I was to install them that way, but am not going too, I do not see the need for me so would just install the normal way.

Mike and Mark,

Before I found the Herms thread about the transmission rebuild I broke a few drums on both of my model T's and start to use wooden bands on them. I didn't brake any drums with the wooden bands. Is it the wood or is it because I get more drive experience, I just leave it in the middle.

As I am a mechanic and repairing engines for freinds an later friends of friends of friends, not all of them like the wooden bands, I started to install the kevlar bands the way Herm shows us in 2013.
I am not rebuilding model T transmissions at the scale Herm does but since I use his way to do it, I have never had problems with the drums or the bands.
First of all the drums must be in good conditions and the surface must be smooth as a mirror, the bands must be clean, clean, clean, clean.

By leaving a gap in the middle of the lining you get more oil on the drum and in the band material so you get better cooling and less chance to crack a drum by overheating.
The gap makes the band also better flexible and make it take better the shape of the drum, less slip better block so less heat on the drum.

To install the lining I set a mark on the middle of the steel band that indicates the gap and start to install from that point both of the linings. Than take the other side of the lining to the ear side. With the ears installed, I make the lining going 1/8" pass the ears so the ears can not touch the drum. As bothe sides are fixed, I take a drum and tighten the band around the drum so the lining is pushed against the band, leave it a few minutes and push the other rivets in the kevlar. Take it all of the drum and push the rivets all the way down on a drum shaped piece of wood and fix them.

Before I install the bands in the transmission, I put them all in oil for at least 24 hours .

Just the way I do it. I know there are other ways to get to Rome and I can't walk on water.

Andre
Belgium

Would there be less chance for chattering by doing this?

When you install a lining that is cut in half, do you rivet the two ends first and then push the bulge down in the center to make them tight against the band as you would with traditional band lining?

Yes Mark,
I use a drum to do this.
The length of the lining is mesured on the outside of the steel band. The reason is, the cercle on the outside is longer as at the inside. It is just what is needed at the inside to make the lining the bulge to make it fit just the way it should.

Andre
Belgium

The mixed of oil I use for soaking the bands is 1/2 10-40 oil and 1/2 ATF. Not only with the Kevelar lining but also with the wood, I never heard about chattering after changing band lining.

Andre
Belguim