U & J Speedster Carb
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Topic author - Posts: 979
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 5:42 pm
- First Name: Stan
- Last Name: Howe
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 2
- Location: Helena, MT
- MTFCA Number: 19133
- Board Member Since: 1999
U & J Speedster Carb
I've been wanting to do this carb setup for a speedster for a couple years and have been working on this when ever I could get a few minutes to work on it for awhile. It is a U & J -- one of the best period correct carbs originally produced as a Model T Accessory -- mounted to an accessory V type cast iron manifold to turn it 90 degrees so the inlet sets to the outside for a racy look and the throttle connection is on the inside and will be easy to hook up to a foot type accelerator pedal.
U & J's are a dead simple carburetor with one main adjustment on the bottom to set the mixture, no idle adjustments, no rods to fool with, just put it on, richer or leaner a little, set the idle speed where you want it and go.
U & J thread sizes are an oddball of some kind, the bottom nut is made from unobtanium and the bowl size is neither Metric or Imperial so I machine the stem to take a Holley G bowl and thread it to take the standard Holley G bowl nut, 1 x 24 TPI. A new brass nut is installed.
Rebuilt with my Holley G steel bowl conversion, modern needle and seat, oversized Venturi for a little more zoom, powder coated bowl and manifold in shiny black and Brass polished enough to look spiffy. Also this turns the fuel inlet to the front so the fuel line can pretty much be hidden on the engine side for a cleaner look. The throttle arm is on the inside now but the throttle shaft is long enough that the arm can be moved to the outside. It is also independent of any other function so the arm can be configured to move back and forth or up and down, however you design the throttle arm movement.
Wanna make your flathead T run like an overhead, put a good flathead and a good carburetor on it and go racing up the hills.
If you have one of the overheads that uses a stock T manifold this will bolt right up and go even faster up the hills.
Rebuilt, test run, good to go in a box and go ZOOM ZOOM!! $900 including Priority Mail shipping in the US.
Please do not use the relay system on here and I don't get the messages. stanhowemt@aol.com or 406 949 3448 Paypal or check, no credit cards.
U & J's are a dead simple carburetor with one main adjustment on the bottom to set the mixture, no idle adjustments, no rods to fool with, just put it on, richer or leaner a little, set the idle speed where you want it and go.
U & J thread sizes are an oddball of some kind, the bottom nut is made from unobtanium and the bowl size is neither Metric or Imperial so I machine the stem to take a Holley G bowl and thread it to take the standard Holley G bowl nut, 1 x 24 TPI. A new brass nut is installed.
Rebuilt with my Holley G steel bowl conversion, modern needle and seat, oversized Venturi for a little more zoom, powder coated bowl and manifold in shiny black and Brass polished enough to look spiffy. Also this turns the fuel inlet to the front so the fuel line can pretty much be hidden on the engine side for a cleaner look. The throttle arm is on the inside now but the throttle shaft is long enough that the arm can be moved to the outside. It is also independent of any other function so the arm can be configured to move back and forth or up and down, however you design the throttle arm movement.
Wanna make your flathead T run like an overhead, put a good flathead and a good carburetor on it and go racing up the hills.
If you have one of the overheads that uses a stock T manifold this will bolt right up and go even faster up the hills.
Rebuilt, test run, good to go in a box and go ZOOM ZOOM!! $900 including Priority Mail shipping in the US.
Please do not use the relay system on here and I don't get the messages. stanhowemt@aol.com or 406 949 3448 Paypal or check, no credit cards.
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Topic author - Posts: 979
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 5:42 pm
- First Name: Stan
- Last Name: Howe
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 2
- Location: Helena, MT
- MTFCA Number: 19133
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: U & J Speedster Carb
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- Posts: 1198
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 10:58 am
- First Name: Mario
- Last Name: Brossard
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1911 Touring and 1914 speedster
- Location: Quebec City Canada
- MTFCA Number: 30981
- MTFCI Number: 30981
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: U & J Speedster Carb
Hi Stan, Very nice piece of art you made. I'm always impress by your work. I'm not a deep knowledge man with carb, but I would like to know what the difference with this carb and an OF carb about performance and also with hill?
Thank you again sharing your knowledge.
Thank you again sharing your knowledge.
Super Mario Bross
1911 Touring
1914 Speedster
1911 Touring
1914 Speedster
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Topic author - Posts: 979
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 5:42 pm
- First Name: Stan
- Last Name: Howe
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- Location: Helena, MT
- MTFCA Number: 19133
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: U & J Speedster Carb
They are different carbs. The U and J is more of a performance carb, will burn more gas, has more Zoom than an OF. OF is probably smoother, better economy and better for a stock engine.
Generally speaking, an OF is not big enough for a speedster engine, the U & J is very popular for speedsters.
Generally speaking, an OF is not big enough for a speedster engine, the U & J is very popular for speedsters.
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Topic author - Posts: 979
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 5:42 pm
- First Name: Stan
- Last Name: Howe
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 2
- Location: Helena, MT
- MTFCA Number: 19133
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: U & J Speedster Carb
U and J definitely better for high speed and with a replaceable Venturi you can open them up even more.
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- Posts: 1198
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 10:58 am
- First Name: Mario
- Last Name: Brossard
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1911 Touring and 1914 speedster
- Location: Quebec City Canada
- MTFCA Number: 30981
- MTFCI Number: 30981
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: U & J Speedster Carb
Thank you Stan,
I have a very nice OF you made for me and I will try it this summer with my stock engine. Any recommendations, My 1913 engine have the regular NH right now.
I have a very nice OF you made for me and I will try it this summer with my stock engine. Any recommendations, My 1913 engine have the regular NH right now.
Super Mario Bross
1911 Touring
1914 Speedster
1911 Touring
1914 Speedster
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Topic author - Posts: 979
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 5:42 pm
- First Name: Stan
- Last Name: Howe
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 2
- Location: Helena, MT
- MTFCA Number: 19133
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: U & J Speedster Carb
You won't believe the difference. There is a reason Stromberg sold over three quarters of a million OF's in less than 4 years.
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Topic author - Posts: 979
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 5:42 pm
- First Name: Stan
- Last Name: Howe
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 2
- Location: Helena, MT
- MTFCA Number: 19133
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: U & J Speedster Carb
This one is SOLD!
Going on a hot speedster project in the Midwest.
I do have one more of these manifolds and another U & J I just picked up but delivery would be down the road a month or so.
The manifolds are made out of unobtainium but this setup just looks so cool on a speedster setup!!
Going on a hot speedster project in the Midwest.
I do have one more of these manifolds and another U & J I just picked up but delivery would be down the road a month or so.
The manifolds are made out of unobtainium but this setup just looks so cool on a speedster setup!!
Last edited by StanHowe on Sun Apr 05, 2020 2:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Topic author - Posts: 979
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 5:42 pm
- First Name: Stan
- Last Name: Howe
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 2
- Location: Helena, MT
- MTFCA Number: 19133
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: U & J Speedster Carb
I'm actually working on a couple U & J carbs today. One of the recent changes I have made is that I am now making my own seats, I came up with a correct die for the threads and decided to quit remodeling the original seats and just make new ones. They flow the same amount of fuel as the originals plus a tiny bit more so fuel supply should meet virtually any demand. That was not a problem before as far as I know but better to have more gas if you need it.
I'm actually working on a couple U & J carbs today. One of the recent changes I have made is that I am now making my own seats, I came up with a set of dies for the threads and decided to quit remodeling the original seats and just make new ones. They flow the same amount of fuel as the originals plus a tiny bit more so fuel supply should meet virtually any demand. That was not a problem before as far as I know but better to have more gas if you need it.
U & J's are made on some bastard system of threads that I have never been able to figure out. The bowls are an odd size and virtually everyone I have ever seen is cracked or damaged. I machine the body to accept a Holley G bowl, machine the stem to accept a standard 1 x 24 TPI nut -- which I make by the handful for Holley G's anyway -- so that down the road the bowl is replaceable and the nut can also be replaced with a standard part. I think one time I posted some photos of the fixture I use to straighten the Holley G bows and refurbish them. So many of them have damage to the goofy bottom seal area that they leak if you don't straighten them.
I also use a brass G bowl if I have one but they are about impossible to find anymore, too. They do look good, tho. One of the other things I like to do to the steel bowls is just heat color them with a torch. It leaves that gorgeous blue color that looks wonderful but does tend to scratch easily. Mostly I just powder coat them black.
The only problem with figuring all this out, getting a bunch of these wonderful carburetors back on the road and performing like they do -- is that the ones I used to buy for twenty five bucks are all gone, now most people want big bucks for a core. Also, there are NO NOS parts that I have ever been able to find. I own the only NOS complete original one I have ever been able to find, all the original literature, etc., which I reprint and supply with U & J rebuilds and ones I sell. To hear them tell it, this was the answer to every possible problem you could have. Better mileage (HA!) instant starting, more power, more speed, no maintenance, etc., etc. A lot of it was true but.............
The purple is for Easter Eggs next week!!
I'm actually working on a couple U & J carbs today. One of the recent changes I have made is that I am now making my own seats, I came up with a set of dies for the threads and decided to quit remodeling the original seats and just make new ones. They flow the same amount of fuel as the originals plus a tiny bit more so fuel supply should meet virtually any demand. That was not a problem before as far as I know but better to have more gas if you need it.
U & J's are made on some bastard system of threads that I have never been able to figure out. The bowls are an odd size and virtually everyone I have ever seen is cracked or damaged. I machine the body to accept a Holley G bowl, machine the stem to accept a standard 1 x 24 TPI nut -- which I make by the handful for Holley G's anyway -- so that down the road the bowl is replaceable and the nut can also be replaced with a standard part. I think one time I posted some photos of the fixture I use to straighten the Holley G bows and refurbish them. So many of them have damage to the goofy bottom seal area that they leak if you don't straighten them.
I also use a brass G bowl if I have one but they are about impossible to find anymore, too. They do look good, tho. One of the other things I like to do to the steel bowls is just heat color them with a torch. It leaves that gorgeous blue color that looks wonderful but does tend to scratch easily. Mostly I just powder coat them black.
The only problem with figuring all this out, getting a bunch of these wonderful carburetors back on the road and performing like they do -- is that the ones I used to buy for twenty five bucks are all gone, now most people want big bucks for a core. Also, there are NO NOS parts that I have ever been able to find. I own the only NOS complete original one I have ever been able to find, all the original literature, etc., which I reprint and supply with U & J rebuilds and ones I sell. To hear them tell it, this was the answer to every possible problem you could have. Better mileage (HA!) instant starting, more power, more speed, no maintenance, etc., etc. A lot of it was true but.............
The purple is for Easter Eggs next week!!
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- First Name: George
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- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: ‘10 Maxwell AA, ‘11Hupp Model 20, Two 1914 Ford runabouts, 19 centerdoor, 25 C Cab,26 roadster
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Re: U & J Speedster Carb
....and I have one of uncle Stan’s restored U&J carbs on my ‘14 runabout. It makes my T scary fast ! If you’re performance minded, this next unit should be ready in a few weeks.
I don’t know why I turned out this way. My parents were decent people.