For Sale - Full Flow Float valves (how to un-strangle your NH)

Post parts wanted or for sale here

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Scott_Conger
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For Sale - Full Flow Float valves (how to un-strangle your NH)

Post by Scott_Conger » Sat Jan 09, 2021 3:45 pm

Many of you have heard of these valves. What you've never seen is why they perform so well on long hard hills or at higher speeds. Here is a common commercial valve on the left, used in many NH rebuilds, and to the right, a Full Flow Float Valve...the through-put is not just a little more, it is 2X more (those math wizards out there who know the formula for an area of a circle already knew that). Now, if you're wondering, yes, most if not all other modern valve you buy will have the same small hole as on the left, and NONE are machined and relieved to make use of the extra fuel that is available with the Full Flow Float Valve.

This photo should illustrate to you that it is NOT your fuel line size that is holding you back. If you're installing fuel pumps or cobbling together larger fuel lines and still trying to squeeze fuel past anything other than a Full Flow Float Valve, you're attacking symptoms and not causes. Do you drive your car fast or attack steep hills? You need the Full Flow Float Valve on the right.

If you are interested in one, send an EMAIL, not a PM. I may not see responses posted on the forum.

IMG_20210109_124705.jpg

Buy just the valve with a LEAD washer for $28 + $8 shipping ($36 Total) or:
IMG_20210109_131741.jpg

Buy the Ultimate NH Rebuild Kit (valve, LEAD washer & Install tool) for $65 + $8 shipping ($73 Total)
IMG_20210109_131716.jpg
Last edited by Scott_Conger on Sat Jan 23, 2021 10:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Scott Conger

Full Flow Float Valves - deliver fuel like Henry intended!


It's Bill
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Re: For Sale - Full Flow Float valves (how to un-strangle your NH)

Post by It's Bill » Sat Jan 09, 2021 8:30 pm

Scott, is this a straight replacement for the stock valve, or does it require modifying the carb? Bill


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Re: For Sale - Full Flow Float valves (how to un-strangle your NH)

Post by It's Bill » Sat Jan 09, 2021 9:06 pm

One more, I think I bought a replacement float valve set and lead washer from you a couple of years ago. Would that set be the same as this set? Thanks, Bill


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Re: For Sale - Full Flow Float valves (how to un-strangle your NH)

Post by Scott_Conger » Sat Jan 09, 2021 9:34 pm

For Bill and others: it is a direct drop in replacement for whatever valve is in your NH right now.
Scott Conger

Full Flow Float Valves - deliver fuel like Henry intended!


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Re: For Sale - Full Flow Float valves (how to un-strangle your NH)

Post by Dan Hatch » Sat Jan 09, 2021 11:19 pm

If you are running a NH, you need one of these. Makes a big difference on a car with tank under seat and low fuel level.
The installation tool is the Cats Meow. Great job Scott.

Now make a tool for the mixture jet ? Thanks Dan.


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Re: For Sale - Full Flow Float valves (how to un-strangle your NH)

Post by StanHowe » Sun Jan 10, 2021 1:50 am

I cannot not endorse these strongly enough. I do not rebuild NH's as a general rule but did a lot of them years back. All you have to do is find an original to compare to the ones most of the vendors sell and you can see why they run out of fuel. These have the correct sized hole, the correct sized needle - which is solid real brass not some light metal that won't open like it should -- the lead washer will solve 99.99 % of the problems people have with NH's. You can take a wooden dowel, trim it to size, stick a little sticky sandpaper on the end and clean the seat up with it in your drill or by hand. Then the lead washer will seal, seal, seal.

One of the great disservices to the hobby was the guy several years ago that made a couple thousand needles with form cut tips instead of ground tips and sold them as being an exact copy of the original. They were not. They leaked.

If you have a Grose jet in an NH, take it out, take your BFH and beat it in to a lump of brass so no one will ever be tempted to use it again.

These are the best $36 bucks you can spend if you want to make your NH run right and not leak.

The seat tool is also very well made.

The jet tool would also be well made if he were making those. Since he isn't, take a cold chisel wide enough to fit the whole slot, grind the tip so it fits the slot, stick it in your drill press and apply pressure and turn the chisel with a wrench. Takes it right out, the pressure from the drill press keeps it from slipping out of the slot and turns an often frustrating job into a two minute one.

Buy these from Scott!!!!

Keep your T running and driving!!


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Re: For Sale - Full Flow Float valves (how to un-strangle your NH)

Post by Original Smith » Sun Jan 10, 2021 10:29 am

Scott is mentioning something that I've known for years, and yet the vendors have done nothing about it! I bought a viton tipped needle and seat from Langs recently thinking it would be one of Scotts. It isn't! The original seats were .125", and the replacements are .100". I hope I got this right! I found out this over 40 years ago, when my car failed to get the proper amount of gas on a hard pull up a hill. I believe the vendors owe it to their customers to sell parts that work! Way to go Scott! I ordered one of Scotts kits a couple of weeks ago, and hope to get it soon.


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Re: For Sale - Full Flow Float valves (how to un-strangle your NH)

Post by jab35 » Sun Jan 10, 2021 12:03 pm

What is the recommended float setting for these full flow viton valves? Is it the original Ford recommendation of 15/64" below the machined bowl gasket surface or the 1/4" below the unmachined carb body as shown in the latest VF? Or doesn't it matter? Thanks, jb


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Re: For Sale - Full Flow Float valves (how to un-strangle your NH)

Post by Scott_Conger » Sun Jan 10, 2021 12:06 pm

All settings remain as NH/Ford specified with respect to float level setting: same measurements, same methodology.
Scott Conger

Full Flow Float Valves - deliver fuel like Henry intended!


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Re: For Sale - Full Flow Float valves (how to un-strangle your NH)

Post by jab35 » Sun Jan 10, 2021 12:33 pm

Thanks Scott. So if someone follows the setting recommendations on pg 28 of Nov-Dec 2020 Vintage Ford will the engine run poorly? If so, I expect some are going to follow bad advice and be disappointed.


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Re: For Sale - Full Flow Float valves (how to un-strangle your NH)

Post by Scott_Conger » Sun Jan 10, 2021 1:23 pm

James, I'm going to give a rambling discussion in the absence of having that article in front of me to answer your specific question.

NH's came with 2 kinds of floats. The "normal" one with "x" buoyancy and the very late one for Improved cars which was larger that had, let's say for illustration, 2x buoyancy as it was very large/thick relative to the normal or far more common float. I mention this as both floats with vastly different heights and buoyancy are set the same way. Modern replacement floats are yet a different bouyancy by some small amount. The resultant difference in fuel height in the bowl is different by a good bit. The extra buoyancy was to seat the needle tighter against the increased head pressure of the fuel in the cowl tank. It also resulted in a slightly lower level of fuel at the spray nozzle. This fact alone shows that the relative float level is not a micrometer-precision thing in NH's. Honestly, a significant percentage of rebuilt NH's don't have the worn throttle shaft hole bushed, and the resultant airleak can far overwhelm the performance variability of the carb relative to the preciseness of the float setting.

Our fuel is less oily, and a different viscosity and density than it was in 1920, so all things are not equal. My advice to people is that if, when inverted, the float is parallel with the casting when closed, the car's going to run fine. That's generally around 1/4" clearance. Some carbs are very finicky regarding float level. I have not found the NH to be among those. Since I do not have the article in front of me to see what specifically you are speaking of, I will say that the valve offered for sale should be installed as the original, and all setting specifications of float level as called out by either Holley or Ford, should work just fine.

Advice to rebuilders: If the float lever has a divot where it bears against the needle, you may have problems. If the float drags on the bowl or central stem, you may have problems. There are any number of little things that can potentially cause grief if the carb or float has been abused but these 3 things top the chart to look out for.
Scott Conger

Full Flow Float Valves - deliver fuel like Henry intended!


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Re: For Sale - Full Flow Float valves (how to un-strangle your NH)

Post by jab35 » Sun Jan 10, 2021 2:13 pm

Thanks again, Scott. jb

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Re: For Sale - Full Flow Float valves (how to un-strangle your NH)

Post by ewdysar » Thu Jan 14, 2021 9:53 pm

I received my float valves, washers and installation tool today. The parts look superb!

I do have a question about the lead washers, which way do they install? Concave side towards the carb body or the valve? Or does it matter?

There have so many things that I’ve thought about getting and are no longer available by the time I needed them. This is a tough time for our hobby where some the long time suppliers are aging out and nobody can afford to step into their shoes. When regularly needed parts become less available, our T’s will start feeling more like all the other cars of the era. I’m glad that I’m living in a time where folks like you are still around to help support the hobby.

Thanks again!

Eric


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Re: For Sale - Full Flow Float valves (how to un-strangle your NH)

Post by Scott_Conger » Thu Jan 14, 2021 11:07 pm

The lead washers install either way. The minor cupping is an artifact from the manufacturing process. It will flatten out and flow into the casting's porosity with very little pressure. Just be absolutely sure the old washer is out of there first! Shine a strong light down in there and be certain it's out. Leaving an old one in there that has "welded" itself in place is a very common error made by someone doing this for the first or second time...

Myself, I remove all parts after getting the casting very hot with a MAPP gas torch and either air quenching or water quenching the casting. This carbonizes the seals, eliminating the compressive pressure on them, and also serves to loosen the brass threads of the parts, allowing for easy part removal in nearly all cases.

I have never had a casting break with water quenching, and that is how I do mine. Over the years, a few folks have sworn that this will crack the casting, but I cannot recall anyone, ever, showing a picture of one actually broken thusly.
Scott Conger

Full Flow Float Valves - deliver fuel like Henry intended!

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