MTFCA Forum

I have been rebuilding some Bendix drives for T's. Most have loose/detached balance rings and missing collar pin and spring sets. To fit the pin and spring, the hardened steel bearing sleeve has to be removed. That has me pondering if there is a certain orientation for the drive gear/balance ring on the drive thread.

The thread has three starts, so the gear and ring can be fitted in three orientations. No matter which way I assemble the 5 I am working on, they all vary. Generally the pin/spring hole ends up somewhat past the Bendix spring bolt hole in the drive head end. It means the heavy side of balance ring is roughly in line with the ears on the Bendix spring. Is that how it should be, or does it not matter?

Allan from down under.

I have rebuilt and welded the balance ring on several Bendix and I don't think it matters.

Hi Allan
I'm also fixing the bendix and noticed from some pictures posted here that my gear ring is lined up differently than some and not all seem to be the same either. I had to weld my ring back onto my gear and wondered if it was welded back on 180 degrees out, as the indexing on the gear and ring fits one of two ways. I may try starting the gear on a different start groove.
I do have a question though, did all gears and rings come with a pin and spring as mine doesn't seem to have ever been drilled for a pin and of course wasn't there when it came apart. Do I need it? Please disregard my question if I'm breaking forum rules or protocols. jim

The pin and ring slides into a little groove and in theory prevents the gear from vibrating forward and getting into the ring gear without the starter shaft spinning.

Hi Allen,
I was taught to weld ( braze ) the counter weight. The pin and spring are to prevent the drive from engauging under gravity & inertia. I was wondering if other than a bad accident if a Model T ever expiriances those forces ? Still I do think it is important. As far as timing the drive I have no idea if it makes any differance. Don't all of the threads end up on the round?
Craig.

I found that bronzing the counterweight on required a deal of heat. I did one, then resorted to silver solder. By using a Dremel tool to make bare contacts, the silver solder flowed much better, made a neater job and required much less heat.

Timing the gear on the threads does not seem to make any difference. One pin does ride a little off centre on the top of the thread, but is OK.

Allan from down under.