Steel shims between coil ring and block
Forum rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
-
Topic author - Posts: 4956
- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2019 1:57 pm
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Gregush
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 cutdown PU, 1920 Dodge touring, 1948 F2 Ford flat head 6 pickup 3 speed
- Location: Portland Or
- MTFCA Number: 52564
- Board Member Since: 1999
Steel shims between coil ring and block
We are thinking about having some of the shim/spacers made up. The one piece shim. The originals I have are .015. They would not take the place of the brass laminated shims but would supplement them. This was original to the T engine. Ford part number 3272.
Question, would there be a market and if so what thickness would people like to see?
Mark
Question, would there be a market and if so what thickness would people like to see?
Mark
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
-
- Posts: 5201
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Steel shims between coil ring and block
Mark, depending on the process to make them, it would be nice to have some original .015" items, and some .010" ones. By combining these two, multiple settings in .005" increments could be achieved. I like to have the magnet keepers ground once they are set to the correct height. This makes them absolutely true, but it does mean that a light grind needs to be compensated for when setting up the clearance to the coilplate.
That way, the brass shims would only have to be used to tilt the plate as needed, rather than space it as well.
Allan from down under.
That way, the brass shims would only have to be used to tilt the plate as needed, rather than space it as well.
Allan from down under.
-
- Posts: 3299
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:56 am
- First Name: Dan
- Last Name: Treace
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '23 cutoff, '25 touring, '27 touring
- Location: North Central FL
- MTFCA Number: 4838
- MTFCI Number: 115
- Board Member Since: 2000
- Contact:
Re: Steel shims between coil ring and block
Mark
Think that many would use this large shim, hope you make them.
One of mine is .018 so don’t know factory spec but likely were around this size. Think one size will be ok.
Think that many would use this large shim, hope you make them.
One of mine is .018 so don’t know factory spec but likely were around this size. Think one size will be ok.
The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
-
- Posts: 144
- Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2019 3:12 pm
- First Name: Herman
- Last Name: Kohnke
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 Roadster, 1922 Coupe
- Location: Clare, Iowa
Re: Steel shims between coil ring and block
We normally end up using shim stock of .002, and .001. That would make 4 points 9, 11, 1, and 3, perfect, with a .030 thousandths gap.Mark Gregush wrote: ↑Mon Mar 18, 2019 7:37 pmWe are thinking about having some of the shim/spacers made up. The one piece shim. The originals I have are .015. They would not take the place of the brass laminated shims but would supplement them. This was original to the T engine. Ford part number 3272.
Question, would there be a market and if so what thickness would people like to see?
Mark
The mag coils that are between 9, 11, 1, and 3, are filed down, a few thousandths to the same height, if needed, as the Dial Indicator reads, on the 4 standards.
The two on the bottom will read from not under .006, to not over .010.
No matter how you do it, they have to sit 24 hours, to let them Acclimate, they can, and do change a little, they are cast Iron.
You can already buy .010 thousandths in Steel, in a horse shoe made for the Model A Flywheel housing.
Some spacers shims, for major height adjustments would be handy, and for me would be the fine adjustment shims of .002, and .001.
Thanks Mr. Mark,
Herm.
- Attachments
-
- 127_2739.jpg (15.27 KiB) Viewed 6157 times
-
Topic author - Posts: 4956
- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2019 1:57 pm
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Gregush
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 cutdown PU, 1920 Dodge touring, 1948 F2 Ford flat head 6 pickup 3 speed
- Location: Portland Or
- MTFCA Number: 52564
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: Steel shims between coil ring and block
I will be keeping my eye on this and see how the feedback goes. Thanks Dan for posting the photo. I forgot my camera at the shop and was going to do same.
Mark
Mark
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
-
Topic author - Posts: 4956
- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2019 1:57 pm
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Gregush
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 cutdown PU, 1920 Dodge touring, 1948 F2 Ford flat head 6 pickup 3 speed
- Location: Portland Or
- MTFCA Number: 52564
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: Steel shims between coil ring and block
We are doing some pricing. Our guy can do the .015 and .020 on his laser but .010 is too thin, I am going to look into water jet on those. We are also considering doing them as a two piece unit. Like the one Dan shows but cut in half. It would lower the cost because of less waste.
Mark
Mark
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
-
- Posts: 2949
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 4:06 pm
- First Name: Jerry
- Last Name: Van
- Location: S.E. Michigan
- MTFCA Number: 24868
Re: Steel shims between coil ring and block
Other manufacturing methods to consider.
You could stack up a bunch of shim stock sheets, of varying thicknesses, and have the whole stack wire EDM'd. Fixturing would be the challenge, but not impossible. (Did a similar thing for a work project some years back)
OR
You could do a search for places that make "steel rule dies". A fairly cheap process that should work for something like this.
You could stack up a bunch of shim stock sheets, of varying thicknesses, and have the whole stack wire EDM'd. Fixturing would be the challenge, but not impossible. (Did a similar thing for a work project some years back)
OR
You could do a search for places that make "steel rule dies". A fairly cheap process that should work for something like this.
-
- Posts: 5201
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Steel shims between coil ring and block
Mark, the beauty of the one piece shim is it stays in place while you fiddle with individual shims to make adjustments. Making it two piece sort of reduces its advantage. You may find that the cost of material is the least cost in production when compared with tooling/cutting/packing/marketing. Good on you for having a go at this for our benefit.
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
-
- Posts: 5201
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Steel shims between coil ring and block
Mark, I forgot to mention that .015" and .020" shims would do nicely. That would allow .005" increments, except for .025", by adding your shims in varying combinations.
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
-
- Posts: 3284
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 10:43 am
- First Name: Larry
- Last Name: Smith
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 13 Touring, 13 Roadster, 17 Coupelet, 25 Roadster P/U
- Location: Lomita, California
- MTFCA Number: 121
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
- MTFCI Number: 16310
Re: Steel shims between coil ring and block
I agree with Herm. You need to make shims of different thicknesses to get an accurate job.
-
- Posts: 5201
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Steel shims between coil ring and block
Larry, you are right about individual shims being needed. The one piece ones are used to get you somewhere in the ballpark. Once they are set, the juggling can commence with individual shims. Not all set-ups require the thicker, one piece shim, but when one can be used, it makes the adjustments with thinner individual shims much more user friendly.
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
-
- Posts: 201
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 6:21 pm
- First Name: George
- Last Name: Andreasen
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 0...building from parts
- Location: Alturas, California
Re: Steel shims between coil ring and block
Well, I for one am interested. I have a goofy problem (I'll do a tell all in a later post) that requires me to add approximately .065" in shims, and the one piece jobs would sure be easier. I'll be keeping an eye out........
-
Topic author - Posts: 4956
- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2019 1:57 pm
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Gregush
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 cutdown PU, 1920 Dodge touring, 1948 F2 Ford flat head 6 pickup 3 speed
- Location: Portland Or
- MTFCA Number: 52564
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: Steel shims between coil ring and block
Thanks for the suggestion of "whole stack wire EDM". I looked that up last night as it was new to me and just fired off and email to a local place that does such work.
Mark
Mark
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
-
- Posts: 3284
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 10:43 am
- First Name: Larry
- Last Name: Smith
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 13 Touring, 13 Roadster, 17 Coupelet, 25 Roadster P/U
- Location: Lomita, California
- MTFCA Number: 121
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
- MTFCI Number: 16310
Re: Steel shims between coil ring and block
Another place we need shims, is for the mains and rods. I know they are available in .003, but how about .001 and .002? I've been making my own for years, and hate it!
-
- Posts: 592
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:46 am
- First Name: Corey
- Last Name: Walker
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 runabout, 1921 homemade truck, 1921 Speedster
- Location: Brownsboro, TX
- MTFCA Number: 51502
- Board Member Since: 2007
Re: Steel shims between coil ring and block
I found these paper shims between the flywheel and crank the other day.
Corey Walker, Brownsboro, Texas