Newly Purchased 15 Touring…new to hobby

[ecobbs01]

Greetings!
My name is Emerson Cobbs, and I am currently living in Osceola, Arkansas. It being the small town it is, a productive autumn project seemed like a good idea to keep busy, and I had always wanted a brass car. I found this vehicle on FB Marketplace in Sikeston (though the car was purchased new in the Bismark, MO area and spent its life in the same family), and now it is parked in my garage awaiting what will hopefully be a future filled with touring. However, I know very little about mechanics or minor body restoration (figured this might be a good way to learn), have never been around a model t before, and want to make sure everything is hooked up right before I even try to fire it up. I figured I would finally become a card carrying MTFCA member and send this post out to see who might be in the Memphis/Northeast Arkansas area who might be able to help ground me with a better sense of direction. I’ll attach some photos as well. Trying to get this car not concours-worthy, but correct enough for it being a 1915, and certainly ready to hit the road. Engine block # is 651477, though a Missouri identifier tag on the cowl lists the VIN at 707337, which leads to suspect an engine swap at some point(?) Thank you and looking forward to getting this bad boy correct looking, complete, and ready to roll.

[ecobbs01]

Here are the photographs…If someone would like additional photographs more can be readily made.

[South Park Zephyr]

Welcome!!
I’m near St. Louis, but I’m sure there are many closer to you

Scott

[ecobbs01]

Thank you! Good to be on board finally…or are those famous last words?

[Steve Jelf]

Emerson, your engine serial number translates to Wednesday, December 23, 1914. I suspect you're right about it being a replacement. If the cowl tag uses an engine serial number (taken from a title?) its date would be Monday, March 1, 1915. That's definitely in the 1915 model year. It seems the car has been updated with a few 1916 features. Just figuring out the ID is sometimes complicated enough to be a separate hobby.

[TRDxB2]

Since your purchase was premised on always wanting to own a brass car & that you know very little about mechanics or minor body restoration (figured this might be a good way to learn). You need to stick to your objective and make it a driver 1915 and not for competitive judging. Its easy to wrap up more dollars in car than it would ever be worth.
The first set of documentation to read is Taking your Model T out of Moth Balls.

Milt_Webb_-_Removing_T_from_Moth_Balls-303258.pdf

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This web site has various manuals for all years that are downloadable https://www.cimorelli.com/mtdl/1915/default.htm - print off a parts list
This is what's available at that site

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Service Manual PDF to down load
Even though it says 1925 its still good
https://www.cimorelli.com/mtdl/servicem ... mcolor.pdf
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Another good reference site with rebuild instructions on some parts of different years
https://modeltfordfix.com/
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Identify part changes as things progressed
https://www.mtfca.com/encyclopedia/
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Assembly drawings
https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/app.php/gallery/album/5

[speedytinc]

#1 get a copy of the T1 service manual. It covers any repairs & service you will need.

[TRDxB2]

#1 get a copy of the T1 service manual. It covers any repairs & service you will need.

Th link to a PDF version is above - no cost. Print off what you need & don't worry about pages getting dirty

[Allan]

Welcome Emerson. You have a really good start to Model T ownership and enjoyment. Like many cars 110 years old, there are things which have been changed over the years. They have no effect on the usage/drivability/enjoyment of the car and your new-to-you car is no exception. It has a clamshell type rear axle usually attributed to 1913-4 cars, but they were carried over into the 1915 year production. It has a windscreen with off-set hinges which was a 1917 feature and it gas rear fenders that are crowned rather than flat like the front ones are. This too is a 1917 introduction. None of this is of any consequence in a driver car. It is just something you will no doubt learn about as you learn more about Model T motoring. Just get in and drive the wheels off it.

Allan from down under.

[Kerry]

Something that will need to be fixed before any driving, the bridge washer is meant to be fitted inside the tire on the tube.

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[JohnM]

Welcome Emerson, your T looks like it's had some recent work done and will not require a lot to get it running and drivable. The closest chapter to you is probably the Tennessee T's in Humbolt. Tennesseets.weebly.com

[John kuehn]

Hello Emerson.
Welcome to the Model T world. This is the right place to find out things about Model T’s!
Since you are new to Model T’s it would probably be best to read and learn as much as you can about how they operate and the maintenance on them. The Ford Service Manual is the first must have to get acquainted with them. Learning about what NOT TO DO on a T is most important so that the wrong things won’t be done.
You need to remember you’re dealing with 100+ year old technology and T’s don’t run and drive like our modern cars and trucks plus they don’t have real brakes!

Get your car running and driving while getting acquainted with it AND THEN make any changes to the body and etc later. You’ll have plenty of time to do that!
Also check out the Model T encyclopedia old version where there is a wealth of information about you Model T! It’s on this website under resources and can really help you.
Have fun with your 15!!

[Norman Kling]

I wish we lived closer together so I could see your car. I am not as well versed on the particular differences between the 1914-1916 models so will let others comment on those. If it were mine, I would first focus on the drive train. Get the engine running and try out the transmission and brakes. Check the spokes on the wheels. The spokes should not be loose and the wheels should not wobble. Get the front axle and steering parts tight and properly aligned. Check the diagonal measurements of the frame from same point on front to opposite rear and see if it is square. Then check for sag in frame. Many times it will sag on the right side at the crankcase mount because the torque of the engine and the brakes will all push down at that side. So get the frame as straight as you can. Check out the ears on the crankcase to be sure they are not cracked. So get the mechanical parts working as good as possible. Radiator should be clean and without sediment or rust particles from the head or block. Check for cracks in the block with water leaks. If you leave coolant in during freezing weather be sure to use antifreeze.
Concerning the body, All the cars until 1926 have a wood frame for the body panels which are nailed and screwed in place. So, especially if it was parked outdoors with a bad top, you will find damage from rot and termites and other wood boring insects. So thoroughly inspect the wood and if severely damaged, replace. Minor dents in the sheet metal can be pushed out from the perimeter of the dent to the center. Tap gently to get it as straight as possible. Rust out can be repaired with welding or brazing and sometimes welding in a section. Some of these body sheet metal parts can be purched at swap meets of reproductions can be had from the parts suppliers. All body panels should be primed on the inside as well as the outside so any water which gets inside will not cause rust out. Small drain holes should be in very bottom of body panels so that any water that does get inside will drain out.These holes will be at bottom so will not show from outside of car. File or sand out very small dimples or imperfections from the body after the dents are as smooth as you can get them and finally use sanding primer to fill very fine imperfections. If bondo or other filler is used, try to minimize the use because it can crack later on and a big chunk of paint will chip off with it. Remember if you want a smooth finish all imperfections must be sanded out before the final coats of paint are applied. The final coats will not fill in pits or dents.
You definatly need a new top. You can buy a kit from most suppliers or have a to company make one for you. The top bows need some work before installing a top.
Norm

[Dan Hatch]

Do I see a battery??

[Erik Johnson]

Your car has a 1917-22 windshield as someone else pointed out. What they didn't point out is that it is mounted backwards. The top pane should fold towards the driver. You can turn the windshield around or swap the hinges from side to side. The side curtain clips on it indicate that is from a 1919-22 or your car started out as a 1919 -22.

Rear fenders are 1917 and later as someone pointed out.

The top irons are 1918-22.

Looks like your car has a later fron end, due to the wishbone.

If you take photos of the interior of the cowl and/or you find the body number and date on the floor riser, it would be easier to determinte the date of the body.

[TRDxB2]

Don't feel overwhelmed by the inconsistencies of parts to be a 1915. There are many reasons for this to have happened over the last hundred years or just in the last 15. You may want to print (computer file) off some of the differences & correct items and file them so you know what you have, and what you might want to do about it

To begin with, many parts are upward/downward compatible, so its not unusual to see later year parts on an earlier car. So don't gt to bothered by that. Other things like a windshield mounted backwards should be corrected
For example on your front axle, as pointed out the wishbone (radius rod) is the later under axle style. The front spring clip (front engine mount) is also a later style. My guess is that the spindles are a later style and the front hubs use tapered roller bearings. Since you are not interested in a perfect 1915 these differences are using the better design of the parts as changes were made. If there was something to change, would be the most obvious out of place item, the front spring clip. Other inconsistencies take a keen eye & knowledge - and if it doesn't bother you keep it that way, its your car or fun!

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The spindle differences are about making removal of the inner bearings easier with the flats. So what you have is what you want because replacing them means special tools to fit new bushings. So when you need new spindle bolts or bushings you can make a decision then if necessary.

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This is from the MTFCA Encyclopedia and points out the evolution of the front axle over the years

[Original Smith]

There have been many later model Fords, that have been converted to so called 1915's. I hope yours is not one of them. There are a number of posts that indicate yours may be one of them.

[Oldav8tor]

Lots of things may have happened to your car in it's life that required parts replacement - many times that meant going with what was available or simply "the right price." Don't be discouraged by that. Owners would also modify or update their cars to suit their whims or needs. This forum is a great resource and hopefully someone will speak up that lives close enough to you to be of help.

[speedytinc]

There have been many later model Fords, that have been converted to so called 1915's. I hope yours is not one of them. There are a number of posts that indicate yours may be one of them.

Strangely, the rear axle is early 15 or earlier. Wouldnt expect that in the typical made up 15.

[JTT3]

Emerson glad to have a young fellow involved, we need more of you! Lots of good advice & help with information you can download. The best so far is starting with your focus on the drive train. Take your time, be patient, read & ask questions. Many of the folks here have solid decades of experience. You seem well grounded in what you want to accomplish and remember it’s not a sprint but a marathon. A major goal you should consider is to end up with a safe, reliable driver. What you may be unaware is a strange occurrence will likely happen when you open the garage door & find another model T with no idea how it got there. That’s what I’ve told my young bride, that’s my story & I’m sticking to it. Recruit some of your young friends to help you may have a friend or two that just helping you they’ll may get hooked too. Nothing better than several friends getting together for a day drive on a weekend. Best of luck! John

John, rear axle could be a late 12- 14. I think I see rivets around the differential housing.

[speedytinc]

I say possibly early 15 because I have seen a few with the 14 & earlier style riveted rear end as this one has.
Yes normally considered 12-14 style.
My early 15 wide track roadster has a 13 casting rear end with a 2 piece DS.
Due to the rarity & last in first out inventory, I believe it came in my T originally.
Who's to say for sure?

[Norman Kling]

Actually the newer style wishbone mounted under the axle (the earlier one was over the axle) is stronger. A problem with the wishbone above the axle is when you hit a curb pothole hard you can bend the spring perch and change the castor of the wheels which can make the steering suddenly pull to one side or the other and much harder to steer. So unless you are going to have the car judged, it is safer to leave alone. In fact many cars have reinforced the wishbone with an aftermarket brace to mount under the axle.
Norm

[dobro1956]

Welcome to the affliction. I'm not real close to you but close enough to be available. We live in Clinton AR. Send me a message and we can talk and exchange contact info. My wife and I are very active in the hobby. I have tons of parts and almost every tool to rebuild anything on a T. We also have a very active Model T club.l in Arkansas. It is the Arkansas Tin Lizzies. It's based out of Russelville Ark. It has members all over Ark. We will be fairly busy for the next few weeks. So for us to being able to visit and look at your car will be about a month from now. But we are always available for phone or e-mail contact any time. If you need references, most anyone on this forum knows me. Send e-mail to: dobro (at) artelco.com or call 501 seven four five 439 seven

[John kuehn]

Hi again Emerson!
In my earlier post I forgot to mention as others have pointed out some of the parts on your car may be from other years. That’s the thing about T’s! Ford built them in such a way that lots of parts may not look the same but would work on Model T’s from 1914-25 and maybe in the improved 26-27 T’s. That’s why down through the years folks would car to an auto wrecking yard to find T parts that would keep them T going. Ford made over 15,000,000 Model T’s and used parts were pretty common. Yours is like so many others in that respect and that’s OK. After you get your car running and serviceable you can then start figuring out what parts if you want to change to get your car in the 1915 range. Take your time in doing that and really get to know about your new T hobby!

[Norman Kling]

Back in 1926 when rte 66 was first opened, my Grandfather and one of my uncles drove from Los Angeles to Plymouth Rock and into Ontario Canada and back in a Model T. From the pictures It looked like somewhere between 1923-1925. Somewhere they broke a crankshaft and were towed into a Ford Dealer. A new engine was installed overnight and they went on their way. So it was very common to have parts from different cars installed. Usually the replacement parts were a newer year than the original car. Also the exact year of some cars is not easy to determine, because in some states the new models were introduced in the fall and would be titled the following year model and in other states they were titled according to the year first sold so if the dealer had some of last years cars still unsold, they could be titled in either year. Not only that but many of the assembly plants would use up all their parts and then the next shipment from the factory would be a later part. And during the year, some times due to problems, the parts the same year were improved so they might be a bit different. So some cars might be titled one year or another even though all the parts were not the same for a given year. Confusing Eh!
Norm

[Dan Hatch]

You need to get a copy of Bruce’s book. It will tell you more than you want to know. 15 is a very interesting year, lots of changes going on.
I think it is one of the hardest to get right.
One thing to note is what Larry said. Many later straight windshield cars were made into 15 cars. Some say so people could tour with the HCCA. They have 15 or older rule.
None the less still looks like a solid car. Good luck with it. Don’t know how close you are but I’m in Birmingham Al.

[TXGOAT2]

It's important to know and understand the proper ways to start the car safely. Using the crank to start the engine need not be dangerous, but it can be. Using the right procedure is essential. You can get a broken arm or be run over by your own car if starting isn't done the right way.

[Steve Jelf]

You can get a broken arm or be run over by your own car ...

Yes, you can. I've done both. The first incident, a broken wrist from stupid cranking, was the wake-up call that made me a stickler for safe starting. If you do it right, there's no problem. If you do it wrong, there can be a big problem. Fortunately doing is right is not difficult: https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG101.html

Run over by your own car? Easy to prevent IF YOU REMEMBER to chock your wheels before starting. I forgot. When I pulled the crank the car crept forward. This was at the top of the ramp in front of the shop. That made the car too heavy to stop, and I wound up on my back with a front wheel pinning my overalls to the ground. Of course I couldn't get to the switch to shut off the engine, so the car pressing forward guaranteed that I wasn't getting up on my own. I phoned 911 and asked the dispatcher to send a deputy to shut off the engine. I emphasized that one person would be plenty. There was no reason to send a crowd of people. With two cop cars, a couple of fire engines, and an ambulance and EMT's that showed up it was quite a show.

[ecobbs01]

I appreciate the wealth of response and information guides, and will try and connect with the folks that are fairly close!

I will try and get some better photos of the interior tomorrow…me and my buddy spent some time removing the mice and squirrel(?) nests this afternoon, and chasing the moths away.

As with many vehicles which have spent their entire life in the Ozarks, especially knowing my great grandfather’s stories of the same, it does not surprise me that the parts on this vehicle cover a diversity of eras. What sold me (and at least convinced my novice mind it is at its root a 15) was the family documentation of this vehicle going back to when it was first purchased, along with registrations and title transfers: the oldest I received being from 1948. It seems this car was kept on the road regularly for a very long time, and repaired as it could be in rural Missouri. I will try and look for a date tag on the body!

[Original Smith]

I'm wondering how you could get run over by your own car if the parking brake is set, and of course the car is in neutral?

[Oldav8tor]

Emerson,
You have a lot more history than most of us have for our cars. If the car was being regularly driven for decades past the end of Model T production, it would have required repairs along the way. Parts from different years are so interchangeable, coupled with the fact that it is unlikely that the owners were striving to keep it in year-correct "factory" configuration, such a mix of parts should be expected. Indeed, it adds to the car's character.
Some cars survived by being tucked away in a barn and forgotten. Others by being used and maintained by their owners. Yours is in the latter category and just as worthy as any other. Enjoy your car!

[TXGOAT2]

Most people aren't born knowing how to handle a Model T. Many people learn the hard way, but that's not necessary, not even today, almost a century after the last T was built. Good advice is readily available. Take advantage of it.

[ecobbs01]

Here are photos of the “interior.” Yes there is a battery bracket! This has added to my confusion

[Allan]

Emerson, that is a seriously home made battery mounting on your car. This may mean that the chassis is a true 1915 item rather than a later one made to accept the factory battery bracket. You will have fun finding out all this stuff as you learn more about your T.

Allan from down under.

[Erik Johnson]

The body of your car is much later than 1915, indicated by the notch in the cowl just above the coilbox, the horizontal strap/brace above the coilbox and the angle iron brackets attached to the body and the firewall (they are somewhat obscured by the wood blocks). I would say the body is approximately 1919 or later.

Look for a body number stamped directly on the passenger side floor riser or stamped on a metal tank nailed to the floor riser.

[ecobbs01]

It appears the body number stamp/plate is either gone, or I haven’t found it yet…somebody seems to have gone through it at one point with a power washer, and the wood is quite surfaced

[ecobbs01]

“It” being the passenger floor side riser

[ecobbs01]

(An update) Following the wisdom advised to me on this forum I have purchased the Model T service manual and a rear axel teardown manual, and have been studying them and all the intricacies of the vehicle. This, combined with consultation of several much wiser in the model t world than I, and after taking an honest account of my own situation with no workshop, no real way to move it other than under its own power (or pushing it), it appears this particular vehicle is beyond my own capabilities for the time being. Hopefully I will be able to get what I purchased it for, but this remains to be seen. Certainly a costly way to enter the hobby, but I reckon not all landings into new territory are the neatest anyway. It has been fun meeting and speaking with everybody so far, and my hope is to gather more ropes on what is required for model t ownership with the Tennessee Ts and the Arkansas Tin Lizzies.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

(An update) Following the wisdom advised to me on this forum I have purchased the Model T service manual and a rear axel teardown manual, and have been studying them and all the intricacies of the vehicle. This, combined with consultation of several much wiser in the model t world than I, and after taking an honest account of my own situation with no workshop, no real way to move it other than under its own power (or pushing it), it appears this particular vehicle is beyond my own capabilities for the time being. Hopefully I will be able to get what I purchased it for, but this remains to be seen. Certainly a costly way to enter the hobby, but I reckon not all landings into new territory are the neatest anyway. It has been fun meeting and speaking with everybody so far, and my hope is to gather more ropes on what is required for model t ownership with the Tennessee Ts and the Arkansas Tin Lizzies.

Sorry to see this, Emerson. Does the car currently run & drive? If so, why not enjoy it as-is? As long as it's safe, I would just use it. You could pare it down to small projects, done over time perhaps.

[ecobbs01]

(An update) Following the wisdom advised to me on this forum I have purchased the Model T service manual and a rear axel teardown manual, and have been studying them and all the intricacies of the vehicle. This, combined with consultation of several much wiser in the model t world than I, and after taking an honest account of my own situation with no workshop, no real way to move it other than under its own power (or pushing it), it appears this particular vehicle is beyond my own capabilities for the time being. Hopefully I will be able to get what I purchased it for, but this remains to be seen. Certainly a costly way to enter the hobby, but I reckon not all landings into new territory are the neatest anyway. It has been fun meeting and speaking with everybody so far, and my hope is to gather more ropes on what is required for model t ownership with the Tennessee Ts and the Arkansas Tin Lizzies.

Sorry to see this, Emerson. Does the car currently run & drive? If so, why not enjoy it as-is? As long as it's safe, I would just use it. You could pare it down to small projects, done over time perhaps.

Unfortunately the car is not running...the engine does have compression, but if it did start I still wouldn't know the condition of the thrust washers in the rear axel, or other drivetrain components that might need attention. The previous owner says he did a valve job, and rebuilt the carburetor, but the car wasn't running when I got it, or at least I haven't tried in earnest to start it since acquiring it for fear of causing unintended damage should something else be out of whack.
As a recently graduated seminarian who will be moved every few years, my workshop is a little under stocked for the job of a rear axel teardown or any major job. I reckon I am coming to the sobering realization that this particular vehicle is in need of a total mechanical once over

[DHort]

https://www.themotorbookstore.com/1909- ... M%20-%20DI
If you want the large size version of the Service Manual get it here at the Motor Bookstore.
If you want the smaller size, all the vendors carry them.
You can also purchase a version with many other reference books from Bruce McCalley's wife. She sells them on a flash drive.
This book will become your Model T Bible.

The MTFCA has books on the axles, the motor, speedometers, etc. Eventually you will want to get those.

You might want an umbrella because it looks like your sun roof is stuck open.

If you are on FB, there is also a group called Model T Ford Club of Facebook.

Never hesitate coming here and asking a question. There is no such thing as a dumb question and everyone here will be happy to help you.

Welcome to the club.

[John Codman]

Based on the photos of the front axle, I would suggest that you start squirreling some money away for a new radiator, or if it's possible - a recore ( I don't know all that much about brass Ts). Welcome to the affliction!

[Steve Jelf]

I reckon I am coming to the sobering realization that this particular vehicle is in need of a total mechanical once over.

That was my situation when I got my 1923 touring. The guys who fixed and painted the body did a decent job but ignored all the mechanical defects. Carburetor rebuild? Check. Undercarriage bushings? Check. Rear axle thrust washers? Check. For several years the car kept coming up with one learning opportunity after another. I have used most of the references in Dave's list, some of them a great deal. I will add a couple of things. The best version of McCalley's Model T Encyclopedia you can get is the digital edition that comes with lots of helpful extras. Contact info is here: https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG80.html

That URL is my website, which has some other articles that may be useful. https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG52.html

[John kuehn]

You’re showing some other antique cars in the back ground of your photos. If you can work on those you can work and LEARN on the T you bought. When you buy a T you can learn by working on them. Most of the folks on this forum did just that. DONT get discouraged by reading the other comments! Some on the forum are what’s called in the hobby PURISTS meaning everything on a T has to be totally correct and they will spend years trying to find the correct part. That’s OK if they want to do it that way.
Others like myself and MANY others aren’t and want their cars to be good drivers mechanically, look authentic and have fun with. My cars are around 90-95% correct and look pretty good in my mind and that’s what’s important in the long run. I don’t try to please everybody on the forum.

If you were to ask the average folks about your T and is it right they wouldn’t know the difference other than it’s a ModelT.

You don’t have to get a full workshop to at least get it running! Do that first.

Try to get your car started and see how it runs at the very least. Have a positive attitude and try to get it running. When you do revaluate your car and time and then decide what to do with it. GOOD LUCK AND HAVE FUN AND LEARN BY DOING IT!!!

[John Codman]

Don't make any snap decisions. Most Model Ts will have some non- correct year parts installed. Some existing Model T Fords went through the WW1 period where non-military parts could be hard to get. After that, they all went through the depression where most people who would own an inexpensive car like a T didn't have much money for new parts. Finally they had to again survive parts shortages due to WW2 military production. The solution to each situation was scrapyard or otherwise used parts. The T owner just wanted to keep the darn thing running. The T was the ideal survivor because Ford made so many of them that there were lots of parts floating around. Try to find parts for an Essex or an Oakland. Your car looks like it could be the basis of a fun, nice-running driver. I have seen a lot worse that have been brought back. One last thing - if the engine turns over, it can almost certainly be made to run. Even if you decide to sell it, it will be worth lots more as a runner. If I were thinking of buying it or any T like it, If it wasn't capable of starting, I would assume that there was engine grief ahead.

[jiminbartow]

There are no shortcuts to learning about the Model T. The first thing you need to do is order the necessary reference books that will help walk you through and troubleshoot most problems you might encounter, including the proper wiring. Fifty four years ago, in 1970, when I was 16, I bought my 1926 coupe for $600.00, with little mechanical experience. I bought the three attached reference books and taught myself about my Model T. The red Model T Ford Restoration Handbook had a long list of parts and services providers in the back that really helped in telling me where to go to get the parts and services I needed. Incredibly helpful. It took me 2 years working on it after school and spending the money I made bagging groceries saving for and buying the necessary parts and services when I had enough money saved up. Invest time in studying the books and teach yourself. It will be time well spent. Good luck. Jim Patrick

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[JTT3]

Emerson, lots of advice given plus a dissection of your car without anesthesia is painful.
Relax, don’t sell your T. You’ve clearly had some realistic goals in your earlier post. I won’t speak for others but I have a tendency to try & force feed information to a new to model T’s owner. To the new person it’s like taking a sip of water from a fire hose. You can do this and you do have the skills to be successful. I believe (like John said) getting the motor running will let you know how to proceed. Hopefully it’ll be a keeper for you. Don’t worry whether this body piece or that piece is correct it really doesn’t matter as long as you love it. Truthfully only a few knowledgeable folks know or even care. Those that do, offer it to them for sale so they can correct it. Emerson, there is nothing like driving a T to help you relax and enjoy creation. If it matters one of the best T’s I ever had and drove regularly was a Heinz 57 T. Miles & miles of smiles, not only for me but for others you meet along the way. If you have minimal tools and lots of desire, you can make it happen. Best John

[Wayne Sheldon]

Emerson C, Only you know your situation, plans and hopes for the future, and abilities to deal with projects.
That said, model T Fords have an almost magical way of connecting their keepers to history. Not just history as the car is concerned, but also history in general, the eras surrounding the car's history before and since. Model Ts also have a unique way of helping their caretakers connect to the person's history, their ancestors and family history. They also help connect people to other people. Almost everyone enjoys seeing a model T Ford.

Just some points to ponder.

[ecobbs01]

I wanted to thank everyone for the response, support, and assistance...I am grateful and will certainly be trying to get more familiar with the "affliction" in the coming months and years, and yes, reading up on my literature. To add to the complication, my mother has discovered the purchase of this vehicle, and been ever so steadily mounting pressure to part with it for the time being. I believe there is an old adage from somewhere saying that what is done in the dark must be brought to the light...so certainly this is one of those moments , and I don't know if this particular t will survive it, because she certainly didn't buy that I just found it on the side of the road.

[Steve Jelf]

Feeling overwhelmed by the fire hose of information we've been squirting at you? Relax. Don't be intimidated. MILLIONS of people have learned how to maintain and operate Model T, and most likely you're smarter than some of them. There is a huge supply of information. Lucky us. Imagine having a Saxon, a Dort, or a Brush, and needing parts for it, or basic information. Yes, the Model T contains some surprises. Fortunately, they are well documented, and you can be forearmed. Did I mention there's a lot of information? Another important thing to realize is this: It ain't rocket surgery. If I can learn my way around this beast, I expect you can too.

[JTT3]

Emerson, I’ve been thinking about your situation and decided to provide you a simple yet conclusive Decision Tree Chart that may help you decide. Best John

[speedytinc]

Emerson, I’ve been thinking about your situation and decided to provide you a simple yet conclusive Decision Tree Chart that may help you decide. Best John

There are other sell-able organs after selling the first kidney. It's all about priorities.