okay EXPERTS, YES or NO answer needed Please!!!
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Topic author - Posts: 357
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- First Name: Walt
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okay EXPERTS, YES or NO answer needed Please!!!
I do NOT want to remove the hogshead on my 26 Coupe unless absolutely necessary to make a repair. I am trying to replace my clutch pedal shaft, the clutch pedal support cam, and the slow speed notch. I know I have to get the pin out of the slow speed notch to remove the shaft, but even though I haven't accomplished that yet or even tried, that is not the question.
The QUESTION is: With the detachable ear off of the low speed band, obviously the spring and low band adjusting screw too, "is there room enough for the bolt that holds the clutch pedal support cam onto the hogshead to "clear" the slow speed drum to get that bolt all the way out to then put it back in your new clutch pedal support cam to bolt it back to the hogshead"?
Now really guys, I want a YES or NO answer. I see it is all tight in there(trans cover hole) and will probably be very difficult, but that is not the question. I am trying to determine if I have to remove the hogshead for this repair or not? I am not an expert at anything, yet with online reading and I lot of patience which sometimes I don't have, I have done a lot of work on my car over the last two years - even surprised myself at times. At least for right now though, I need a YES or NO answer whether I HAVE to remove the hogshead to make this repair.
Much Thanks in advance !!!
Walt Wise
The QUESTION is: With the detachable ear off of the low speed band, obviously the spring and low band adjusting screw too, "is there room enough for the bolt that holds the clutch pedal support cam onto the hogshead to "clear" the slow speed drum to get that bolt all the way out to then put it back in your new clutch pedal support cam to bolt it back to the hogshead"?
Now really guys, I want a YES or NO answer. I see it is all tight in there(trans cover hole) and will probably be very difficult, but that is not the question. I am trying to determine if I have to remove the hogshead for this repair or not? I am not an expert at anything, yet with online reading and I lot of patience which sometimes I don't have, I have done a lot of work on my car over the last two years - even surprised myself at times. At least for right now though, I need a YES or NO answer whether I HAVE to remove the hogshead to make this repair.
Much Thanks in advance !!!
Walt Wise
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Re: okay EXPERTS, YES or NO answer needed Please!!!
......well, maybe
...some people are like Slinkies....they're generally useless but fun to watch when you push them down the stairs.
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Re: okay EXPERTS, YES or NO answer needed Please!!!
yes
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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Topic author - Posts: 357
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Re: okay EXPERTS, YES or NO answer needed Please!!!
OMG, I messed up my own question by asking it twice in different ways that required two answers - one Yes and one No!
I have just talked with a VERY experienced T owner and he advised me that I do HAVE to take off the hogshead to make this repair.
SORRY all to my two different questions, but now I have the answer. Thanks !!! Walt Wise
I have just talked with a VERY experienced T owner and he advised me that I do HAVE to take off the hogshead to make this repair.
SORRY all to my two different questions, but now I have the answer. Thanks !!! Walt Wise
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Re: okay EXPERTS, YES or NO answer needed Please!!!
Maybe. Yes on the bolt only. But why?
A No on placing a new low pedal/clutch support without removing the low pedal.
The clutch pedal shaft runs in the support. You cannot remove the clutch pedal unless you drive the rivet from the low pedal notch.
Pull that Hogshead, a must do, and learn how to do it anyway...part of being a Ford mechanic
A No on placing a new low pedal/clutch support without removing the low pedal.
The clutch pedal shaft runs in the support. You cannot remove the clutch pedal unless you drive the rivet from the low pedal notch.
Pull that Hogshead, a must do, and learn how to do it anyway...part of being a Ford mechanic
The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
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Re: okay EXPERTS, YES or NO answer needed Please!!!
I’m no expert, but I say take the hogshead off.
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Re: okay EXPERTS, YES or NO answer needed Please!!!
There are no experts! Only people with experience and that does not make them an expert. The word is over used, misused, and totally abused. If an expert exists, that means what ever he/she says is the gospel and everyone else is wrong. We all have different enlightenments and approach situations from a different angle.
Remove the hogshead do the job with plenty of access and you will be much happier.
Hank in Tin-A-See
Remove the hogshead do the job with plenty of access and you will be much happier.
Hank in Tin-A-See
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Re: okay EXPERTS, YES or NO answer needed Please!!!
You have to take the HH off to remove the rivet, to remove the cam. You have to have the HH off the reinstall the cam and then the rivet in the pedal, it has to be peened from both sides.
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!
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Re: okay EXPERTS, YES or NO answer needed Please!!!
I agree. Pull it. And while you are at it I would apply a really good coat of grease to that shaft. That will slow the leakage a lot. Good luck.
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Re: okay EXPERTS, YES or NO answer needed Please!!!
Hogshead off. It's such a pain of a job, I would suggest relining the bands with kevlar linings at the same time.
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
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Re: okay EXPERTS, YES or NO answer needed Please!!!
No it’s not real easy to remove the transmission cover BUT it’s a job that every T owner ought to do or at least try to do.
Once you do it one time it’s something you will be glad you did.
And while you have it off replace all the pedal cams which are available and install Kevlar bands. If I can remove a transmission cover anybody with any mechanical aptitude can do it.
And you need to peen both sides of the slow speed cam when replacing it. And you can’t do it very well unless the cover is off and on the workbench and something under the rivet to be a backup where it’s peeled. Just the way it is
Once you do it one time it’s something you will be glad you did.
And while you have it off replace all the pedal cams which are available and install Kevlar bands. If I can remove a transmission cover anybody with any mechanical aptitude can do it.
And you need to peen both sides of the slow speed cam when replacing it. And you can’t do it very well unless the cover is off and on the workbench and something under the rivet to be a backup where it’s peeled. Just the way it is
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Re: okay EXPERTS, YES or NO answer needed Please!!!
NO
Tony Bowker
La Mesa, California
1914 Touring, 1915 Speedster, 1924 Coupe.
La Mesa, California
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Re: okay EXPERTS, YES or NO answer needed Please!!!
After pulling and reinstalling the hogshead once on my T, I'll never do it again with the engine in the car. The next time I'll just pull the whole engine and then pull of the hogshead.
I know I'll receive some guff about this approach but I don't care. I will never go through that again. It was the single most unpleasant thing I think I've ever done while working on a car.
I know I'll receive some guff about this approach but I don't care. I will never go through that again. It was the single most unpleasant thing I think I've ever done while working on a car.
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Re: okay EXPERTS, YES or NO answer needed Please!!!
The answer is yes! Easy to do if you are young or agile. Just be careful not to get oil or grease on the upholstery. Pull the seat cushion and cover the door panels. Loosen the two bottom bolts at the universal joint a few turns and take out the two top bolts. Block the rear wheels so they won't roll forward and then push the car forward as far as you can and block the front wheels so they won't roll back. This will pull the universal joint back a bit so you can loosen the fourth from the hogs head. Pry back the fourth main a fraction of an inch. Then remove all the bolts which hold the hogs head to the engine and crankcase. When you remove the two bolts between the top of the hogs head and the block (on a 26-27 block) you might find some shims between the hogs head and block. When you put things together replace the exact amount of shims in the same place as before because they help hold the 4th main in proper alignment with the block. Then just pry the hogs head loose and raise it Lift it off.
Putting it back on is a different thing. I like to take strong string to hold the band ears together. This will not cause as much problem than wire if it should accidently be dropped into the crankcase. Do this before you install anything. Place the gaskets and felt with gasket sealer. Be sure to get the clutch yoke in the proper slot. After you get the hogs head in place, you can cut the top half of a gasket which goes between the 4th main and hogs head. Remove the blocks at the wheels so the universal joint will go back in place. Start tightening in the middle of each side and work toward the ends. Be especially careful when tightening the bolts at the ends of the hogs head next to the block. They are easy to break the hogs head. Tighten as you would with the head bolts a little at a time starting in the center of each side and working toward the ends until they are tight. After you get the hogs head in place and tightened, put rags along both sides of the transmission. Cover all areas where you could possibly drop a spring, nut or washer and then pedals springs washers and nuts. After you get the nuts on the pedals remove the string around the band ends. After everything is in place, you can remove the rags and make your final adjustments. Don't forget to wire the two bottom bolts at the u joint.
I think I have covered just about everything
Norm
Putting it back on is a different thing. I like to take strong string to hold the band ears together. This will not cause as much problem than wire if it should accidently be dropped into the crankcase. Do this before you install anything. Place the gaskets and felt with gasket sealer. Be sure to get the clutch yoke in the proper slot. After you get the hogs head in place, you can cut the top half of a gasket which goes between the 4th main and hogs head. Remove the blocks at the wheels so the universal joint will go back in place. Start tightening in the middle of each side and work toward the ends. Be especially careful when tightening the bolts at the ends of the hogs head next to the block. They are easy to break the hogs head. Tighten as you would with the head bolts a little at a time starting in the center of each side and working toward the ends until they are tight. After you get the hogs head in place and tightened, put rags along both sides of the transmission. Cover all areas where you could possibly drop a spring, nut or washer and then pedals springs washers and nuts. After you get the nuts on the pedals remove the string around the band ends. After everything is in place, you can remove the rags and make your final adjustments. Don't forget to wire the two bottom bolts at the u joint.
I think I have covered just about everything
Norm
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Re: okay EXPERTS, YES or NO answer needed Please!!!
This was the original question:
“The QUESTION is: With the detachable ear off of the low speed band, obviously the spring and low band adjusting screw too, "is there room enough for the bolt that holds the clutch pedal support cam onto the hogshead to "clear" the slow speed drum to get that bolt all the way out to then put it back in your new clutch pedal support cam to bolt it back to the hogshead"?”
I believe the answer is NO
The question was not “can you remove the hogs head with the engine in the car “. I agree that can be done though I personally prefer to pull the engine.
“The QUESTION is: With the detachable ear off of the low speed band, obviously the spring and low band adjusting screw too, "is there room enough for the bolt that holds the clutch pedal support cam onto the hogshead to "clear" the slow speed drum to get that bolt all the way out to then put it back in your new clutch pedal support cam to bolt it back to the hogshead"?”
I believe the answer is NO
The question was not “can you remove the hogs head with the engine in the car “. I agree that can be done though I personally prefer to pull the engine.
Tony Bowker
La Mesa, California
1914 Touring, 1915 Speedster, 1924 Coupe.
La Mesa, California
1914 Touring, 1915 Speedster, 1924 Coupe.