tire preasure
Forum rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
-
Topic author - Posts: 11
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2020 8:25 pm
- First Name: Leaford
- Last Name: Burnett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 Runabout, 1926 Coupe
- Location: Ceresco NE
- MTFCA Number: 408
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
tire preasure
I mounted new 30 X 3 1/2 inch clincher tires on demountable non split rims. Somewhere on this forum it was said that tires should be inflated to 60 PSI
Could someone confirm this as when taken out on the road with that amount of pressure it seems to handle poorly, the front axle has had all pins and bushings replaced, bearings inspected and repacked, alignment, toe in and gather all seem per specs so don't think that's the problem, I never driven Model T before and not sure what to expect.
Could someone confirm this as when taken out on the road with that amount of pressure it seems to handle poorly, the front axle has had all pins and bushings replaced, bearings inspected and repacked, alignment, toe in and gather all seem per specs so don't think that's the problem, I never driven Model T before and not sure what to expect.
-
- Posts: 4359
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:18 pm
- First Name: Steve
- Last Name: Tomaso
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 Touring, 1919 Centerdoor, 1924 TT C-Cab Express, 1925 Racer
- Location: Longbranch, WA
- MTFCA Number: 14972
- MTFCI Number: 15411
- Board Member Since: 2001
Re: tire preasure
60 lbs. is the correct pressure for that size - some folks run up to 65 - 70 lbs. - I'm a 60 lb. guy !
-
- Posts: 366
- Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2019 1:38 pm
- First Name: Chris
- Last Name: Brancaccio
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1909 Roadster 1915 Coupelet 1923 Coupe 1926 Touring
- Location: Calgary AB
- MTFCA Number: 443
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
- MTFCI Number: 23136
- Board Member Since: 2005
- Contact:
Re: tire preasure
Clincher tires definitely need 60 PSI or the tire and tube will spin on the rim and rip the valve stem off.
Chris Brancaccio
MTFCA Webmaster
MTFCA Forum Admin
MTFCA Webmaster
MTFCA Forum Admin
-
- Posts: 106
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2019 8:38 pm
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Regan
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1911 Open Runabout, 1911 Touring, 1912 Delivery Cars (2), 1915 Roadster, 1916 Roadster, 1923 Touring Car
- Location: St. Charles, IL
- MTFCA Number: 14725
- MTFCI Number: 77
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: tire preasure
Could you be more specific with regard to " it seems to handle poorly" Is it wandering by itself or do you have excessive play in the steering. If the thing pulls to the right really hard as you pass a place that is selling ice cream - that is normal.
John
John
-
- Posts: 4095
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:39 pm
- First Name: Norman
- Last Name: Kling
- Location: Alpine California
Re: tire preasure
The T does not have power steering, so it might seem different from what you are used to.
Handling poorly can be many things. If the castor, camber, and toe in are set correctly, it should run straight ahead without pulling on the steering wheel. Sometimes the camber of the road can cause it to pull slightly in one direction, toward the lower side. You could also have some tight parts which would cause it to steer hard.
Other things which can cause problems are also a bent chassis. If it is bent the U joint could be off center which could cause the two axles to be out of alignment with each other. Try measuring diagonally between the same point on the front axle, such as end of the axle where the spindle bolt is bolted to a point on the opposite rear axle such as a bolt where the radius rod is bolted to the axle. The measurements should be the same in either direction.
This problem could cause the car to pull hard to one side.
If there seems to be looseness and play in the steering or shimmy of the wheels, you could have a loose connection anywhere in the mechanism. Typical trouble spots would be spindle arms to spindles, pitman arm to the steering column, loose gears or worn parts in the steering box. Most often can be loose ball joints at ends of the drag link and or the radius rod ball under the crankcase.
One more thing I can think of would be wrong length drag link. different year models had different lengths. When you are using the correct length for your car, the pitman arm should point straight down when the wheels point straight ahead.
Norm
Handling poorly can be many things. If the castor, camber, and toe in are set correctly, it should run straight ahead without pulling on the steering wheel. Sometimes the camber of the road can cause it to pull slightly in one direction, toward the lower side. You could also have some tight parts which would cause it to steer hard.
Other things which can cause problems are also a bent chassis. If it is bent the U joint could be off center which could cause the two axles to be out of alignment with each other. Try measuring diagonally between the same point on the front axle, such as end of the axle where the spindle bolt is bolted to a point on the opposite rear axle such as a bolt where the radius rod is bolted to the axle. The measurements should be the same in either direction.
This problem could cause the car to pull hard to one side.
If there seems to be looseness and play in the steering or shimmy of the wheels, you could have a loose connection anywhere in the mechanism. Typical trouble spots would be spindle arms to spindles, pitman arm to the steering column, loose gears or worn parts in the steering box. Most often can be loose ball joints at ends of the drag link and or the radius rod ball under the crankcase.
One more thing I can think of would be wrong length drag link. different year models had different lengths. When you are using the correct length for your car, the pitman arm should point straight down when the wheels point straight ahead.
Norm
-
Topic author - Posts: 11
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2020 8:25 pm
- First Name: Leaford
- Last Name: Burnett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 Runabout, 1926 Coupe
- Location: Ceresco NE
- MTFCA Number: 408
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
Re: tire preasure
John
maybe when I get the speedo you sold me installed it will ride better as of right now I've driven less than 6 miles on it and just not comfortable with it, thanks to all for confirming PSI
maybe when I get the speedo you sold me installed it will ride better as of right now I've driven less than 6 miles on it and just not comfortable with it, thanks to all for confirming PSI
-
- Posts: 4095
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:39 pm
- First Name: Norman
- Last Name: Kling
- Location: Alpine California
Re: tire preasure
The T does not have power steering, so it might seem different from what you are used to.
Handling poorly can be many things. If the castor, camber, and toe in are set correctly, it should run straight ahead without pulling on the steering wheel. Sometimes the camber of the road can cause it to pull slightly in one direction, toward the lower side. You could also have some tight parts which would cause it to steer hard.
Other things which can cause problems are also a bent chassis. If it is bent the U joint could be off center which could cause the two axles to be out of alignment with each other. Try measuring diagonally between the same point on the front axle, such as end of the axle where the spindle bolt is bolted to a point on the opposite rear axle such as a bolt where the radius rod is bolted to the axle. The measurements should be the same in either direction.
This problem could cause the car to pull hard to one side.
If there seems to be looseness and play in the steering or shimmy of the wheels, you could have a loose connection anywhere in the mechanism. Typical trouble spots would be spindle arms to spindles, pitman arm to the steering column, loose gears or worn parts in the steering box. Most often can be loose ball joints at ends of the drag link and or the radius rod ball under the crankcase.
One more thing I can think of would be wrong length drag link. different year models had different lengths. When you are using the correct length for your car, the pitman arm should point straight down when the wheels point straight ahead.
Norm
Handling poorly can be many things. If the castor, camber, and toe in are set correctly, it should run straight ahead without pulling on the steering wheel. Sometimes the camber of the road can cause it to pull slightly in one direction, toward the lower side. You could also have some tight parts which would cause it to steer hard.
Other things which can cause problems are also a bent chassis. If it is bent the U joint could be off center which could cause the two axles to be out of alignment with each other. Try measuring diagonally between the same point on the front axle, such as end of the axle where the spindle bolt is bolted to a point on the opposite rear axle such as a bolt where the radius rod is bolted to the axle. The measurements should be the same in either direction.
This problem could cause the car to pull hard to one side.
If there seems to be looseness and play in the steering or shimmy of the wheels, you could have a loose connection anywhere in the mechanism. Typical trouble spots would be spindle arms to spindles, pitman arm to the steering column, loose gears or worn parts in the steering box. Most often can be loose ball joints at ends of the drag link and or the radius rod ball under the crankcase.
One more thing I can think of would be wrong length drag link. different year models had different lengths. When you are using the correct length for your car, the pitman arm should point straight down when the wheels point straight ahead.
Norm
-
- Posts: 4095
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:39 pm
- First Name: Norman
- Last Name: Kling
- Location: Alpine California
Re: tire preasure
If the chassis sags in the center by the rear crankcase mounts, it could alter the castor which would also cause hard steering.
Norm
Norm
-
- Posts: 79
- Joined: Fri Feb 15, 2019 7:53 pm
- First Name: Dennis
- Last Name: P
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 Coupe, 1925 TT, 1927 Speedster, 1931 Model A
- Location: Humboldt TN
- MTFCA Number: 31449
- MTFCI Number: 24373
- Board Member Since: 2012
Re: tire preasure
You can also get your steering components too tight which will cause your car to wander all over the road and be difficult to drive.
-
- Posts: 4967
- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2019 1:57 pm
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Gregush
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 cutdown PU, 1920 Dodge touring, 1948 F2 Ford flat head 6 pickup 3 speed
- Location: Portland Or
- MTFCA Number: 52564
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: tire preasure
What Ros said. jack the front end up and see how much drag there is on the king pins. I once snug mine up a bit too much and when making a turn it wanted to stay turning. Other thing to check is toe in, if it is wrong steering will be wonky.
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
1925 Cut down pickup
1920 Dodge touring
1948 Ford F2 pickup
-
- Posts: 1055
- Joined: Sat Apr 13, 2019 6:06 pm
- First Name: Susanne
- Last Name: Rohner
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: Late '15 touring, "Angel".
- Location: Valfabbrica, (central) Italy
- MTFCA Number: 464
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
- Board Member Since: 1999
- Contact:
Re: tire preasure
I was told decades ago that the formula was 20 PSI per inch of width... that puts me in the 60/70 PSI crowd, kind of like a bicycle tire... I did try running lower pressure (40-ish IIRC) because someone told me 60 was way too high... and it cost me the stems out of my tubes and a rim cut tire... Went back to 60 front, 70 rear, and no more problems...