How Do I Paint My New Aluminum Rain Gutters ?

[BLB27]

I am installing the new top on my 1927 coupe. The last item is the aluminum rain gutters. What is the best way to paint them?

[Steve Jelf]

I think it depends on the type of surface. When I paint new nuts and bolts I strip off the cad plating because paint doesn't stick to it. Then I etch the surface with metal prep to help paint adhere. If your aluminum has a matte surface I expect it will hold paint. If it's slick, maybe not. In that case I'd Google how to prepare aluminum for painting.

[Adam]

Leave them off and finish the entire top with hidem welt…. Last time I saw one, the aluminum ones were for Model A and not quite right for a T. If the top was correctly installed with a beaded drip edge, that is usually all the protection you need on the occasional rainy day.

[Rich Eagle]

https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=4839c38e ... 1bS8&ntb=1
I would have used the aluminum ones but Instead I made my own.
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/33 ... 1380286211

[BLB27]

Thanks Rich for the help.

[Chris Barker]

I did as Rich adviszes about 15 years ago and mine are fine.
I suggest that if they are straight pieces, you form the curves before any painting.

I expect you are now going to ask how to fit them!

[jiminbartow]

I would not advise leaving them off. I have the gutters above each door on my 1926 coupe and you’ll be surprised and pleased at how much rain the small gutters over the doors will divert the water away from the doors, which even when closed, without the gutters will allow water from the roof to flow into the top joint of the doors which will flow into the car and cause a rust issue as well as water damage to the upholstery. Jim Patrick

[BLB27]

I would like to use the original rain gutters. I am trying to separate the two pieces by soaking them with Koril (maybe spelled the name wrong!). It hasn't worked yet. Any suggestions? Maybe should try heat.

Sorry about the photo orientation.

[jiminbartow]

Hi Bruce. You mentioned your gutters were aluminum. Are you sure? Back in 1926, aluminum was hard to come by and considered a precious metal. If it is aluminum, it will have no rust so under no circumstances should you use acid. Acid will turn the aluminum black and dissolve it in no time. In your photos, I think I see a little rust. If so, your gutter is not aluminum, but, instead, is steel that appears as if it has been plated. If original and was plated, it would have been plated bright nickel, which, if in good condition, should not be painted.

I’m not sure, but it looks like the gutter part slides onto the anchor part from the end. If it will not slide because of old paint, I would fill a narrow tray the length of the gutter with lacquer thinner and let it soak until the paint is soft enough to slide the two parts apart. Then, if it is up plated steel, remove the rest of the paint using a green 3M scrub pad. If it is plated, be careful not to scratch the plating and use a soft rag to remove the paint. Soak more if necessary to soften the paint so that it basically dissolves in the lacquer thinner. If it turns out to be nickel plated steel, with no rust, no need to paint it. Once apart and the paint is all off, determine if there is any rust. If there is rust, remove it with a rust remover of your choice, as there are many. My choice, for the last 50 years has always been Muriatic Acid, which is a very aggressive acid. If the rust is deep, paint the acid on until there is no trace of the rust left. After using muriatic acid for 50 years, the fumes do not bother me, but if you are not used to it, it can knock you over so either stay upwind and hold your breath, set up a fan to blow the fumes away from you, or wear a respirator. Apply it outside away from any tools, for the fumes can cause your tools to rust if used in a confined space such as in a garage. If pitted, it may require many applications over a long time until all of the rust has dissolved down to the bottom of the pits. If only minor surface rust, it will dissolve quickly. Once all the rust is gone, neutralize with baking soda dissolved in water. When it stops bubbling, all muriatic acid is neutralized. Make sure because if any acid is left on, it will continue to attack the metal. Once the muriatic acid has been neutralized, flush with water and dry immediately with a towel. If you have a heat gun or a hair dryer, dry off the remaining water with a heat gun, as the remaining moisture will cause rust to start forming. When dry, wipe down with lacquer thinner. When dry, spray both sides of both pieces with “Rustoleum Red Oxide Primer”. When primer has dried according to the paint can instructions, apply a gloss black finish of your choice. I prefer the “Rustoleum Gloss Black Alliance Epoxy” from Home Depot. Good luck. Jim Patrick

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