MTFCA Forum

Hello all Merry Christmas, I am planning on spraying white Tractor Paint viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17755&p=134688&hili ... or#p134688 on my chassis. I have this Craftsman 919.15624 Paint Sprayer, is it good enough? I have not used it for 15 years. Owner's manual is now missing, nothing turning up on duckduckgo and another well known search engine that I am trying to get away from. This one seems close: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/32713 ... 15519.html Any tips appreciated on painting my T chassis and wheels with this. A lot is already primed but the wheels are not. I have a can of red Rustoleum fish smelling type of primer. Any other suggestions on primer that I can easily get?

I'm sure there are some guys who have or know about you spray gun, but a few points first
The gun manual is for a different type of gun to yours, it is what is classed as a suction feed gun, it is set up so that the air draws paint from the pot into the air stream and it is then sprayed in a controlled fan.
You gun is a low pressure gun, the pot is sealed and some air pressurizes the paint in the pot and forces it out out of the gun at the air cap. Normally this type is used for thick material not normal paint which is a lot thinner when mixed to spray. On the chassis it may produce a satisfactory finish if you do some testing first but a normal suction feed gun would be better.

I would not use a red primer under white, grey would be far better and new paint rather than some old left over would be a better option, if your paint has gone off you may find after using it you have problems and cleaning it off the chassis to fix it would be a messy lousy job,
Use new good quality primer, suitable for the white you intend on using.

Tips on spraying test the paint and gun on something else which doesn't matter first till you get a nice result, spray inside and all hard to reach bits first and finish by spraying the big easy parts which will be seen when the car is finished.

Do not use red primer for a white color top coat, the red will bleed thru and your final color will be a shade of pink. Be sure the primer is compatible with your paint. An incompatible base paint will act like paint stripper.

Paint is the finish on all your work. It is the last thing I would compromise on. Buy the best you can and use a complete line of products to ensure compatibility.

Allan from down under.

I have painted everything with the harbor freight el cheapo gun. They spray nice and the price is right. I also have a $600.00 SATA gun for my body panels, but everything else including frames I use the harbor freight gun.

https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-hvl ... 62300.html

Son of a gun watch this video think he uses your gun or similar https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6eoFYTp98XE

The Harbour Freight paint guns work fine. I worked at a Technical College and the Auto Body dept instructors recommended these for their students to use because they were economical.
The students did some nice jobs with these.
The instructors noticed that they worked as well as their high dollar personal guns and used them at their home shops.


Doing at good paint job depends on prior preparation of the body panels or whatever your going to paint. Good equipment is fine but surface preparation is 75% or more is necessary for a good job.

I actually have that same gun. It’s somewhere in a box and has been for years. Never could master it, it tends to spit! No book tho...sorry

I agree, go buy the cheap-o harbor freight, sample on something to get your cut right, and if the gun gets away from you by the end of the project just chuck it and buy another. Actually at the price for HF, buy 2 and have a spare

I have one of those Craftsman guns. Used it for a lot of years spraying primers and acrylic lacquer. Worked pretty good, shot it at about 40-45#s at the gun as I recall. But, I agree as the others have advised; go the economy hvlp spray guns. Easier to use and good results. I would recommend Eastwood epoxy primer. Durable and takes a lot of different top coats.

I'm with the others in suggesting one of the inexpensive modern spray guns. In addition to working better than the older guns, they are more economical in terms reduced overspray. At the cost of paint today, the paint saved in the first job will usually repay the cost of the gun. In addition, the newer guns clean up more easily and take less thinner to clean.

I like the Harbor Freight "Central Pneumatic Automotive HVLP Air Spray Gun Kit, 2 Pc." The set consists of a small gun for detail work and a larger gun for larger things such as car bodies. I find that I use the detail gun the most. It holds about 5 oz of paint and is just right for a batch of small parts.

My only real criticism of the HF guns is that some leak where the cup screws into the gun body. For some reason there is no gasket provided. I happened to have a stick of nylon laying around and made a few washers on the lathe. There's probably a suitable equivalent at your local hardware store.

They were out of the individual sprayers so I purchased this set. Thanks all for the advice.

otrcman wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 24, 2020 1:35 pm

I like the Harbor Freight "Central Pneumatic Automotive HVLP Air Spray Gun Kit, 2 Pc." The set consists of a small gun for detail work and a larger gun for larger things such as car bodies. I find that I use the detail gun the most. It holds about 5 oz of paint and is just right for a batch of small parts.

In the video he strains the paint. Why is straining the paint necessary?

TRDxB2 wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 24, 2020 2:09 am

Son of a gun watch this video think he uses your gun or similar https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6eoFYTp98XE

That Sears gun will spray automotive paint, but a pressurized pot gun takes some getting used to as it can put out more paint than one normally sprays.
YES you filter the paint! any "lumps" will mess up the paint gun, and your finish too. Practice with primer, but know that finish paint goes on differently than primer--it's more apt to run, etc. Fortunately, chassis weren't painted perfectly, so small mistakes won't be noticed!
and yes, try to match your primer color to the finish color, it helps hide chips and also keeps the finish color "truer" to the color sample.

You have to strain to eliminate any particles that may have fallen into the mixing cup or whatever, because a particle will ruin a larger painted surface by spitting a bugger or drip into the surface. You want an uninterrupted spray. Paper filters are cheap, and they sell them at paint supply stores. It’s just a precautionary measure that’s worth doing if you want a nice finish free of debris.