MTFCA Forum

This is how I have always done them. http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/11 ... 1289401524
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/154271.jpg
(Tom Mullin's 1916 by "Hap" (Harold) Tucker)

I had thought only the upper sections were plated too. You might read this discussion as I believe it supports that.
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50 ... 1446557866

I did find this though. "...paint off the rods which reveals traces of the original brass plating on the entire length of both rods." By Royce on the modeltfordfix site.
https://modeltfordfix.com/restoring-a-m ... ng-column/
https://modeltfordfix.com/wp-content/up ... lumn-3.jpg
Both findings were made by Royce. It may be that it was done each way at different times.
Someone will know.
Rich

I can't tell for sure what the fasteners are in the photos from Dan and Mike. Here's what I have:

The countersunk holes in the bracket probably don't call for square nuts. Should they be hex nuts, or???


The hood former on this firewall had a bit of brass tubing for the hood rod, held by a glob of JB Weld or the like. I imagine there should be a factory part for that, or was it somehow part of the hood former?

Steve, the countersunk brackets are from the 1909 to early 1911 models. If they are cast brass, they are most likely a reproduction. If the they are not, congratulations, you have a nice early original pair. This style had a countersunk slotted screws that went through them from the engine compartment side, with normal hex nuts on the drivers compartment side. Installation on your 15, was the opposite, with the coach screw/bolt going through from the drivers side and the square nots going onto a flat surface on the bracket. I will try to find some pictures which show this method.

Steve -- Those spark and gas rods shown in the picture are solid brass repops, if I recall. That was the chassis I built for the Coupelet I had a few years back. I believe the plating was originally done on the handle area only.

The rod which holds the radiator in position bolts through the firewall without any other support. The center hood hinge rod goes into the hole in the hood former with no other support. Those holes are often wallowed out, as is the one in your pic.

Those holes are often wallowed out, as is the one in your pic.

If I just repair the hole it will wallow out again. I believe I'll braze in a piece of tubing to support the hood rod.

If you brake a piece of 3/8" steel to the back of the former where the centre rod of the hood goes, you can then drill the required rod hole in what may be a little off centre, but will allow the hood fitment to be much better.
Allan from down under.

Steve, my '15 body has been apart a time or two... but here is how it looks now. I'll take photos from the engine compartment tomorrow. My hood former is also wallowed out. I am sure glad my car isn't cosmetically restored! Those aluminum hoods are easy to mess up. Haha.

Steve, ran out quick tonight instead. Here's what I have, for what it is worth. January 1915 body with chassis that appears correct for having been with that era of body. Also snapped a shot of the hood former hole.

the hood rod hole in the '15-16 hood former is, IMHO, a mistake by Ford, as the thin sheet metal is easily worn by the hood--and it wears into the hood rod. Adding a short piece of tubing to the former stops that wear, and if done right, the repair is not easily seen, if seen at all. My '15 ('16 year model) is getting such an "upgrade."

David's piece of tubing is a good idea to spread the load at the former. However, if the former hole is flogged out, it is usually reflective of the hinge rod needing to be in a position somewhat less than central to the original hole. The hood will fit better if you can allow the hinge rod to sit where it wants to sit. Be prepared to weld the bit of tubing to the side a bit so the hood fits as best it can. On the earlier flat firewalls, the whole hood former can be fitted off centre to achieve the same relaxed fit.

Allan from down under.

One thing I dislike on this forum is guesses! If you never worked on a steering column then you should not post guesses. I've worked on several, both brass era, and nickel. I've not measured the exact distance, but the plating goes down quite a ways into the tube, but doesn't go beyond the end of the tube. As far as I know no year Ford has plating or paint beyond the end of the tube, and most of the plating is well into the tube.