MTFCA Forum

I'm planning to mount a Sparton horn on the long radiator to firewall rod over the engine on my 26 Touring. Some said this may not be good for the radiator. I have a Berg's radiator and will mount horn as close to the firewall as I can. Has anyone ever had any issues when you mounted a horn in this manner? Not speculation but had something bad actually happen?

If you have one mounted like this with no issues, please let me know as well to build my confidence I'm not making a mistake.

Thanks,
Mike

Doesn’t sound great to me but explain exactly how you’re going to do it.

I have not done this but I have seen plenty done this way. If the rod doesn't sag its hard to see the harm.

Paul

I have one mounted in this manor and have not had a problem with it. It has been like this for many years and on many tours.
Norm

Be kinda hard to detail it out. I can take pics when done, hopefully this weekend. I plan to use the mounting bracket that came with the horn that has two points to mount so the weight of the horn will be over two points on the rod. Using stainless wire rope clamps and two stainless L brackets to adapt. Found a neato double throw ON-OFF-ON under dash clamp switch so no permanent holes to drill and I can choose the AHOOGA or the stock horn to activate via the stock button and switch between the two horns.

Our ancestors did it all the time, but their rad necks didn’t fall off by themselves. Don’t know Bergs construction but on originals I believe there is a backup washer soldered inside the tank on the female threaded part that inserts into the tank.On aftermarket rads I have here there are several rivets into that same casting. If they just soldered it on like their necks, I probably wouldn’t chance it.
,

Several years ago I made a bracket to hang a horn on the radiator rod. The bracket attached right at the firewall and was held in place with the radiator rod nut. I don't see how it could have had much affect on the radiator.

I'd mount the horn somewhere else.

I have hung horns from the rod as well as others I know. So far no issues.

Had an ahooga horn mounted like this on my 27 for years. Never had a problem but since bought the proper bracket and mounted it correctly.

Thanks for the comments. It's helping. I am dead set on keeping the stock horn and add the AHOOGA without drilling holes or making any permanent changes.

I would look for space under the body for an extra horn and not clutter up the engine compartment. People often want to look under the hood, but not once in 50 years of owning a model T, has anyone ever asked to crawl under to take a look.

Humblej wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 04, 2021 1:36 pm

I would look for space under the body for an extra horn and not clutter up the engine compartment. People often want to look under the hood, but not once in 50 years of owning a model T, has anyone ever asked to crawl under to take a look.

I have a siren & 2nd horn mounted to the 2 front frame rails using existing holes.
They are completely out of the way & nothing obstructs the sound.

It works fine. I put it close to the fire wall putting most of the weight at the rear mount.

Here's how it looks right now. Getting too hot in the garage to do the wiring....sighhhh. Had to drill out the angle brackets to 1/4" The rope clamps are M8 5/16" All stainless steel.

Michael

now you need to send that picture to Berg's Radiator and ask them if they will warrant their product with that thing boinging around the way that it will. You may believe that your horn is mounted like Pat Kelley's, but it is not.

His due to the type of horn and it's relative location as mounted, weight distribution is far further aft than yours. Neither is ideal, but yours is going to be far more flexible and much harder on the radiator.

Couldn't that mounting bracket be rotated 180 degrees so the mounting point would be closer to the firewall? It seems weight distribution would be better too.

Keep an eye on those thin little L brackets. They are ripe to crack.

Are the L brackets necessary? The horn bracket could be mounted directly onto the cable clamp U bolts. This will shorten the mounting and enable the horn to be mounted more to the rear.

Allan from down under.

Hmmmm...lots of good thoughts. I put the bracket the way it is to try and balance the horn but it could be reversed if you guys think it would make that much of a difference. I did the L brackets so there would be less torque on the clamps and avoid the chance of the clamps slipping. Those L brackets are a little thicker than the stock bracket so I figured they would be fine...3mm thick stainless. Again, I could mount without the L brackets, though....it would give less a lever arm as well.

Won't be driving it any time soon so I will think on it. Might change it around if it's not too hot today.

By the way.....THANKS for the comments....I really appreciate the ideas....probably will make those suggested changes as I keep thinking on it.....stay tuned.

I have been following this thread with interest. The magneto horn on my 17 T works well, but only within a limited rev range. I have an A model horn I an add, and the cable clamps idea is about as neat I have ever seen. If they are left loose, the horn can hang as it wants, and if tightened up at that point, it would seem the best solution.

Allan from down under.

It was too hot this last weekend to make the recommended changes...thermometer in the garage was well over 100 deg F with humidity. Nope!

I was able to flip the bracket but I couldn't eliminate the L brackets due to the offset of the original bracket. That offset pushed the horn into the coil box so I had to raise the horn up to provide clearance. Also had to give it a bit of a rotation from the vertical. What do you think? Better?

Thanks!
Mike

Here is a nifty switch I intend to wire up to choose which horn the button will activate. Turn the switch sideways and you'd get a nice discrete turn signal switch!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AY ... UTF8&psc=1