MTFCA Forum

Sorry for my inexperience but how do I use this brake lining rivet tool?

. In the picture I think 1 is the correct rivet punch? I don't know what the other punches do.
. Item 2 in the picture, that is for drilling and counter sinking the lining right? Mark it with a marker from the back of the brake, drill it through from the back of the lining then switch to the braking side of the lining and countersink?
. Item 3 in the picture what does this do?

The punches are a bit short to be hammered through the black jig. Is that what item 3 does?

Thanks in advance.

This is a tubular riveting tool, not for band split rivets. Just to clarify.
#3 is the head back up. goes in the black tool.
#1 goes in the top to set the rivet tube. Expands & rolls over the tube end.
#2 goes in a drill to counter bore to lower the head below the lining surface.
The punches may be for getting the rivet down, in place before setting or punching out the old rivets.

Pictures help Note I had issues withe the #2 (clincher) head being a bit to wide and not spreading the rivet properly (that was with steel rivets, may work better with brass). So be cautious
#3 is an anvil to be used with #1 to spread/fold over the tube end onto the steel band. Here is a good "How to" with pictures http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/70 ... 1492202911

Ignacio: I didn't pruchase the fixture but did make parts like the rivet set (1) and anvil (2) which I held in a vice. IIRC I used grade 5 bolts and turned them down in my lathe with a HSS bit, nothing fancy. I modified a cheapie woodscrew countersink to match the rivet shank and head contour and dimensions and brazed a washer on the shank to give consistent depth control. When I mounted the linings I fitted a hardwook block in gap where the cam fits and used a hose clamp to tighten the lining against the shoe, leaving enough room to instal the rivets on one edge and then moved the clamp to do the other side. It helps if you have a third hand when doing the riveting in this manner, but I'm very satisfiied with the results. I found the brass tubular rivets in the kit were a little loose in the holes in the steel band though. Good luck with your project, jb

Thanks for the picture, that helps a lot. How do you know how deep to drill down on the lining for counter sink?

TRDxB2 wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 01, 2021 12:18 pm

Pictures help Note I had issues withe the #2 (clincher) head being a bit to wide and not spreading the rivet properly (that was with steel rivets, may work better with brass). So be cautious
#3 is an anvil to be used with #1 to spread/fold over the tube end onto the steel band.
punch.png
Here is a good "How to" with pictures http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/70 ... 1492202911
brake.png

My rule of thumb = 1/2 way. Rivet heads should be as deep as possible for maximum wear without loosing too much material to not grip the lining. Dont go too deep.

speedytinc wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 01, 2021 2:13 pm

My rule of thumb = 1/2 way. Rivet heads should be as deep as possible for maximum wear without loosing too much material to not grip the lining. Dont go too deep.

Very reasonable. Got to remember that the force on the band isn't a pull away but a shearing force. So the rivet head contact is supporting the band more than the tube part. The depth is important so the head doesn't scrape the drum.

You can download the instructions on Snyder's website.

I discovered that there is a little ridge near the bottom of the tool that makes it not flop around on a vise. That helped a lot. Some of the rivets went on better than others. I have one completed. I did only a few rivets at a time to make sure the holes aligned. I marked about 3 holes at a time and drilled them then riveted 2 leaving one free so there was enough free band hanging off that I could get in to drill 2 more holes.